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 Posted 05/27/2015  11:36 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add gymcoachdon to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I think the Kennedy looks much better, hopefully someone with more experience will chime in. I'm guessing the CFL bulbs are giving you a pretty diffused light source, which can be good, but the pictures look a little flat.
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 Posted 05/27/2015  11:45 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Buymyemu to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Interesting that both of our Lincoln pics seem to have a copper reflection onto the background at the top (where the lights are). That might be telling us something.

Also I see that my backgrounds look to be a different color between the Kennedy and the Lincoln even though the only thing changed is the ISO, must be the Auto AV.
Edited by Buymyemu
05/27/2015 11:54 pm
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 Posted 05/28/2015  10:20 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add EFLargeCents to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
In my short experience, copper is much more difficult to photograph than silver.
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 Posted 05/28/2015  10:43 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add rmpsrpms to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Yeah, BU copper is tough, especially toned. Here's an example from my last roll search. This is optimized to show color.



This shot was taken with two diffused Janjos, approx 100mm from the coin, near the lens (approx 70-deg from horizontal). ISO100, f/5.6. AV mode, -0.5EV. Neutral Style, -4 contrast, 0 sharpening.
Contact me for photographic equipment or visit my home page at:
http://macrocoins.com
Edited by rmpsrpms
05/28/2015 11:18 am
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 Posted 05/28/2015  5:13 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Dar to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply

Quote:
This shot was taken with two diffused Janjos, approx 100mm from the coin, near the lens (approx 70-deg from horizontal). ISO100, f/5.6. AV mode, -0.5EV. Neutral Style, -4 contrast, 0 sharpening.


This is Great!

THIS is more of the kind of information I need.

Why f/5.6? I thought that f/8 was the best setting?
Was it to help bring out the color?
Edited by Dar
05/28/2015 5:14 pm
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215 Posts
 Posted 05/28/2015  5:29 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Buymyemu to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
What kind of bulb are you guys using, mine is an elcheapo (to keep with the theme) Menards CFL 60 watt equiv
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215 Posts
 Posted 05/28/2015  5:30 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Buymyemu to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I will try diffusion later, after FTC robotics...

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 Posted 05/28/2015  6:25 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add SsuperDdave to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Dar, I imagine he was able to get sufficient depth of field to use f/5.6 instead of f/8. Always better to use the widest aperture possible to allow the camera more flexibility with the other settings.
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 Posted 05/28/2015  9:04 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add rmpsrpms to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
My contention is that the best shooting aperture is the DLA of the sensor or a bit larger. So at M=0.7 for Cents, f5.6 translates to f9.5 effective. My T2i has a DLA of f6.8, so I'm well beyond the DLA but not deep into diffraction at f9.5. If I shoot at f8, I am at f13.6 effective. This is still not too bad, has better DOF, and furthermore the diffraction is eliminated when downsizing 2x, so f8 is really still OK for web publishing. But I'm picky about my Cent shots, and want to have something I can view or crop at 100% with good sharpness.
Contact me for photographic equipment or visit my home page at:
http://macrocoins.com
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215 Posts
 Posted 05/30/2015  11:41 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Buymyemu to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I have worked for a couple hours trying to knock down the reflections on a new penny. Added 3 layers of diffusion, pointing lights away, increasing distance, adding a 4th layer of diffusion around the coin, but not having much luck.

I threw a second dark Lincoln in to compare, now I am starting to think these look grainy.



Edited by Buymyemu
05/30/2015 11:41 pm
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 Posted 05/30/2015  11:50 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add rmpsrpms to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
On your 2013 the lights look like they are a bit too low an angle. See how Lincoln's forehead is "outlined" with highlights, as is his nose, beard, and back. Bring your lights higher and you'll get less reflection off the edges of the devices and more on the surfaces. Brighter surfaces will allow you to lower the exposure and this knocks the highlights down.
Contact me for photographic equipment or visit my home page at:
http://macrocoins.com
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215 Posts
 Posted 06/19/2015  10:55 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Buymyemu to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Ok, finally had to time to get back to this.

Made some changes to the shiny cent setup, but, does liberty look blurry? Play with contrast more?

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 Posted 06/19/2015  11:22 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add rmpsrpms to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
The biggest problem this image has is the white balance. It's far too red. There are also odd highlights on the bottom edges of the features. Overall the image is good, with good exposure and focus. I don't see much blurriness anywhere. I took the liberty of adjusting the color balance, levels (contrast and brightness), added bit of sharpness, and added some pointers to the highlights of concern I mention above.

It may be that you have a light on in the room that is shining toward the coin and causing these highlights. Try moving your hand around the coin when in Live view and see if the highlights disappear.

Contact me for photographic equipment or visit my home page at:
http://macrocoins.com
Valued Member
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215 Posts
 Posted 06/21/2015  12:43 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Buymyemu to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Here is tonights try, Highlights gone, but more shadows on the forehead.



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 Posted 06/21/2015  12:53 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add rmpsrpms to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Those shadows look fine, and are needed for the coin to look natural. Don't try to get rid of all the shadows, just make them as uniform around the devices as you can. A "proper" image covers the entire dynamic range of light intensity from blacks to whites. Your image above does not push shadows to black. If you adjust levels so it does, it looks like this:

Contact me for photographic equipment or visit my home page at:
http://macrocoins.com
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