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 Replies: 19 / Views: 1,235 |
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Moderator
 United States
171012 Posts |
My original (first) albums began as folders filled from circulation finds, so condition varied, of course. When I started buying coins to fill holes, I bought whatever my teenage budget could afford. Again, condition varied. Since I do not care to upgrade, this mixture remains in those albums. The value is mostly sentimental, as the represent what I acquired in my younger years.
My newer albums tend to be filled from US mint sets, so they are naturally represented by the higher grades.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
7266 Posts |
All depends on how much money you have.
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Moderator
United States
77073 Posts |
I shoot for MS coin, but the cost is sometimes prohibitive of that level, so I slowly step back to AU then to lower grades to get the coin I need
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Pillar of the Community
United States
3202 Posts |
Another approach to an album might be to assemble a set with similar eye appeal. Here are a few thoughts.  Lincoln Cents can be found with an eye-pleasing chocolate color. These aren't common, but aren't rare either. With the obvious exception of the 1943 cents, a complete chocolate color set could be assembled. Focusing on a set with similar chocolate appearance opens the door for a wide range of technical grades. Lincoln Cents that are woodies might be another way to focus. Some dates have far more woodies than others, but the variations and color gradients would make the technical grades less obvious. Again, the 1943 cents are an obvious exception. Buffalo Nickels with strong strikes are very difficult to assemble, but a completed set could range from high VF-AU without too much distraction. One other idea would be a set with similar die varieties. A short set of Lincoln Cents from 1934 P-D-S to 1958 P-D that are all BIE coins would be interesting and also very difficult. I'm not sure every date and mint in that range has a BIE. Edited by fortcollins
09/29/2025 6:57 pm
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Pillar of the Community
United States
3226 Posts |
For coins or notes, my target grade for anything on my wantlist is the highest that fits in my budget.
I learned a lesson long ago (and occasionally re-learn it), that if I buy a much lower grade than I have on my want list just to fill a hole, I'll inevitably feel the need to upgrade it at some point.
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Moderator
United States
77073 Posts |
yup, that is so true Hoki!
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1024 Posts |
I tend to go with what hokiefan 82 has stated I have a few early date (WLH) that I know I will up grade at some point. But this does present another problem. They are expensive and most high grades are slabs. You mite have to be willing to break them out of a slab. Which will be true with just about any set you are collecting. You can find un slabbed high grade key dates but are few and far between.
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Moderator
Australia
16470 Posts |
I suspect most people who follow the "gotta catch em all" album-filling path start out by first filling the album with whatever grade they can afford, following the "always buy the best grade you can afford" mantra - which usually means buying low-grade and/or ugly coins for the key dates and other rarities. Then, once they're done completing the album (assuming the series still interests them), they gradually improve the album contents over time by buying upgrades as their budget and finances allow.
Of course, these days, someone following this path will sooner or later have to start to spend money on buying slabbed coins. At which point, the album-filler has the quandary of how to "fill the hole" in the album when the coin is sitting in a slab. Would you "crack it out" just so you could put it in the album, or would you put the slab away nice and safe someplace else and "fill the hole" with... something other than your best coin?
Don't say "infinitely" when you mean "very"; otherwise, you'll have no word left when you want to talk about something really infinite. - C. S. Lewis
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Valued Member
United States
313 Posts |
Like you said, depends on the particular set of coins. For me all the current running sets I am going for MS/BU. V nickels and Buffalos I look for readable dates. Wheat cents I'm aiming for MS/BU but I know not all will that grade. I only have a few so I am far away from having to make the hard decision. I have been following your collection and I think you are sorta asking for advise, so I will give you what I would do if I were you...lol Make a list of what dates and mint marks you still need if you haven't already. Look at the RedBook prices and see where the big jump is if there is any. Like the 24-S the jump is from VF to EF so you know that one the EF is probably out of your budget. Or even photocopy the pages(s) of the wheat cents and use that as your checkoff list that way you'll have somewhat of an idea of prices/grades to look for. Considering your LCS seems to have decent prices I would start there. I would resist the urge to buy the cheapest coin just to fill a hole. Sometimes you might be able to get a few coins, others maybe a couple or even just one. Some you may have to save up for. As for ebay, it might be easier to search by date to find the better looking ones at the price you're comfortable with. I usually search lowest price first and if I see something I like I'll open it in another tab and keep going until I get past my cost comfort. Then you can look at each tab and make a decision or at least add some to your watchlist. (for that special offer) Sorry for the long "Dad" advice, I just don't want to see you get discouraged and give up. I look forward to your posts and progress. |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
2861 Posts |
Great points and ideas above  Me personally, this will be a quick summary of my set building... Large Cents 1816-1857: Any grade is ok, since some dates are difficult and pricy in nice condition, so AG-3 to near mint. Flying Eagle and Indian cents: Most dates are in VF-20 or higher, except for the really tough dates like the 1877 (Mine just got upgraded to a VG-8), and my early years of the Indian cents (1859-1864) and the 1880-1909) all XF-40+ except for the 1909-S Indian which is ~VF-30. Lincoln Cents: Complete set (1909-1958) XF-40 or higher except the 1914-D is a graded VF-35 which I am now looking for a nicer one. Liberty V nickels: Any AG-3 or higher currently. Buffalo nickels: Complete set in F-12 or higher. Jefferson nickels: Mostly high grade, but some circulated. Mercury dimes: From AG-3 (for my 1916-D) to mint state for some of the common dates. Standing Liberty quarters: Still need three more coins to complete this set, the 1916, 1919-S, and 1923-S. The 1916 may take a while due to the rarity and extreme priciness of that coin. The grade here doesn't matter as much as many dates get really expensive in better condition since these coins were workhorse coinage for Americans back then and wore down quicker. Washington quarters: Most are in XF or better. Walking Liberty half's: This set is also hard to complete so I have a few low grade like in G-4 then up to some mint state. Most of my set before 1934 is in the lower grades of VF or lower. Franklin half's: Many are in nice condition Morgan dollars: Incredibly hard set to now complete and I am far from complete there...  Peace dollar: I aimed for VF or higher, even though some of the keys (1921, 1928, and 1934-S) are hard to get in nice condition. Basically it comes down to what is affordable to you, and for me, it also means being patient and slowly building up to your goals.  |
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
5212 Posts |
I believe that someone on this forum once described a key-first process. They had restarted the whole series, and started with the most difficult coins. Then filled in the easier coins over time.
Personally, I could easily live with album holes. Except for a lower mintage, a key coin and an ordinary coin are usually the same. I would much rather pursue interesting varieties or coins with historical value than key dates.
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Moderator
United States
171012 Posts |
Quote:
I believe that someone on this forum once described a key-first process. They had restarted the whole series, and started with the most difficult coins. Then filled in the easier coins over time. That has been mentioned a few times, yes. I always felt like it was an anti-climactic approach. But to each their own. 
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Valued Member
United States
313 Posts |
I think the theory behind getting the key dates first is that they are normally the ones that increase in value over time possibly due to low mintage and availability.  |
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Moderator
United States
171012 Posts |
I believe that was the reason always given. At least for value.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
2003 Posts |
I'm (still) doing Barber halves. I picked a max amount I'm willing to spend for each piece, and willing to bend that slightly for the early keys. |
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Replies: 19 / Views: 1,235 |
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First Page
Posted 09/29/2025 6:25 pm
