| Author |
 Replies: 35 / Views: 3,380 |
Page 3 of 3
|
|
|
|
Pillar of the Community
United Kingdom
2133 Posts |
thai-vic asks Quote:
...how many scratches on a coin distinguishes a VG from an F? I think that idea is a rather America-centric view of grading, though it may well have been adopted elsewhere. To me, an F coin with 5 scratches should be described as such rather than VG. It might be the case that a dealer decides to charge the same price as a VG coin for an F coin with 5 scratches but that's surely a commercial decision rather than a grading decision. |
|
Pillar of the Community
 Egypt
3470 Posts |
OK, these are the grades and their definitions:
Brilliant Uncirculated (BU)
• Perfect new condition, showing no trace of wear.
• No evidence of scratches, handling or contact with other coins.
• Full mint luster.
Uncirculated (Unc.)
• No visible signs of wear or handling
• Show a few number of contact marks.
• Surface may be spotted, lack some luster or lightly toned.
About Uncirculated (AU)
• All detail will be visible.
• Wear only on the highest point of the coin.
• Half or more of the original mint luster present.
Extremely Fine (XF or EF)
• About 95% of the original detail visible.
• Features are sharp and well defined.
• A bit of luster may show.
Very Fine (VF)
• About 75% of the original detail visible.
• On a coin with no inner detail, there will be moderate wear over the entire coin.
• Corners of letters and numbers may be weak.
Fine (F)
• About 50% of the original detail visible.
• On a coin with no inner detail, there will be fairly heavy wear over all of the coin.
• Sides of letters will be weak.
• A typically uncleaned coin will often appear as dirty or dull.
Very Good (VG)
• About 25% of the original detail visible.
• There will be heavy wear on all of the coin.
Good (G)
• Coin's design will be clearly outlined but with substantial wear.
• Some of the larger detail may be visible.
• The rim may have a few weak spots of wear.
About Good (AG)
• Typically will be only a silhouette of a large design.
• The rim will be worn down into the letters if any.
I can use the + and - sign to explain that the coin has a grade that is very near to the above or lower grade.(It is in the grey area between two grades)
Is there anything that anyone would like to add to describe any of these grades?
Edited by EgCollector
09/07/2012 6:01 pm
|
|
Pillar of the Community
United Kingdom
2133 Posts |
EgCollector, I think that's a great start. What's important is not how well that fits with other countries grading systems but how well that fits with Egyptian coins. Although, you're going to start with coins from 1917 to 1952, presumably at some point you'll progress to the coins issued under Ottoman rule, so your grading system needs to fit that, too. It's really difficult for people to estimate what Quote:
75% of the original detail means. I think it would be far more useful if you were to use descriptive language like ' the decoration on Farouk's uniform shows as a broad band' or 'there is no join (is that a tassel ?) on Fuad's fez'. The American Numismatic Association grading guide is a very useful example of this methodology. |
|
Pillar of the Community
Egypt
3470 Posts |
Quote:
Although, you're going to start with coins from 1917 to 1952, presumably at some point you'll progress to the coins issued under Ottoman rule, so your grading system needs to fit that, too. Pertinax, That is in our plan but we decided to start with the Royal collection as it is the most favorite for all the Egyptian collectors. This will be as a pilot for the Ottoman coins and for the Republic coins too. Quote:
I think it would be far more useful if you were to use descriptive language like ' the decoration on Farouk's uniform shows as a broad band' or 'there is no join (is that a tassel ?) on Fuad's fez'. The American Numismatic Association grading guide is a very useful example of this methodology. This is what I was talking about from the start.... this is the project  I am intending to describe each coin denomination and date of this time period how it looks like in each grade and will try to take measurements of weight, diameter and thickness and see if there is a correlation between them and the degree of wear of each grade or not. Will let a professional photographer take pics of obverse and reverse for each grade with a standardized background. Will take pics for varieties and mint marks .... may be some errors too if I am lucky. Will add mintage and composition. Some historic information for each coin if available and then market value for each grade. Simply I want to make a Red Book of the Egyptian coins  |
|
Bedrock of the Community
13014 Posts |
Quote:
will try to take measurements of weight, diameter and thickness and see if there is a correlation between them and the degree of wear of each grade or not. Not familiar with the minting technology in egypt, but that could be useful for newer coins as they are pretty standard with the new technologies in minting in the US anyway, but even then theres acceptable weight differences even for brand new coins. Coins minted with older technologies will have a wider acceptable variance that will probably make trying to grade by weight impossible |
|
Pillar of the Community
United Kingdom
2133 Posts |
EgCollector,
Your comment about varieties interests me.
I didn't know there were varieties for the royal coins (apart from the different mints).
Are they listed in the latest edition of the KM catalogue ?
|
|
Pillar of the Community
United Kingdom
2133 Posts |
basebal21,
I didn't know there were acceptable weight differences even for brand new coins.
Are these differences listed online, please ?
How do the coin-taking machine maker cope with differing weights ?
What's the acceptable percentage difference.
|
|
Bedrock of the Community
13014 Posts |
Pertinax
If you have some new coins especially ASEs or something like that weight them, I highly doubt theyll be the same. While the new process does make things pretty streamline its almost impossible to have everything be the exact same.
The tolerance varies for different coins as theyre different sizes. Generally if its close like a couple grams of the listed weight on the mint site its good to go.
The coin machines go off size by the slot they go through triggering a counter for most of the ones I've seen. While the weight varies enough to not be able to grade by it, its not enough not to fit through the slots. If its doesn't fit its either a bad strike error or fake
|
|
Pillar of the Community
United Kingdom
2133 Posts |
basebal21,
I've just compared weights (all in grams) from the remainders of mint (all BU) bags of UK florins:
1965: 11.08, 11.34, 11.39, 11.36
1966: 11.35, 11.43, 11.5
1967: 11.42, 11.34
I'm amazed that there could be such a variation.
|
|
Pillar of the Community
United Kingdom
2133 Posts |
I've just found at http://wiki.answers.com/Q/What_is_t...ritish_coins that the weight of the florin should have been 11.5 grams. If there's this much variation for modern UK coins, there probably is for modern coins of other countries, including Egypt. Thus there's not much point in grading by weight. However, I did buy a large lot of circulated UK silver threepences, some time ago, with the express idea of arriving at an average weight in different grades - when I've nothing better to do, I'll do the study. |
|
Pillar of the Community
Egypt
3470 Posts |
Quote:
I didn't know there were varieties for the royal coins (apart from the different mints).
Are they listed in the latest edition of the KM catalogue ? Dont know about the last edition but some are mentioned in old editions |
|
Pillar of the Community
Egypt
3470 Posts |
Regarding weight... I think you may have a point.
So Do any one knows a way to determine the highest point of a coin details ...... I mean the first points that starts to wear?
Or is these points/areas are determined through observations?
|
|
Bedrock of the Community
13014 Posts |
Eg not sure what kind of information is available from the mint but examining the design or getting a brand new one should be able to revel the highest points of the design that will wear out first. Most designs have a few spots that will be the first to show wear
|
|
Bedrock of the Community
13014 Posts |
The other thing you can do is look at the TPG sights like PCGS and NGC and see if they grade any of the coins your interested in. Sometimes theyll have pretty good descriptions of what to look for or pictures of what grade they consider a coin to be which could be a good reference |
|
Pillar of the Community
Egypt
3470 Posts |
Quote:The other thing you can do is look at the TPG sights like PCGS and NGC and see if they grade any of the coins your interested in. Sometimes theyll have pretty good descriptions of what to look for or pictures of what grade they consider a coin to be which could be a good reference Thanks a lot basebal21 ...... An Excellent advice  |
|
Page 3 of 3
|
Replies: 35 / Views: 3,380 |
Page 3 of 3
|
First Page
Previous Page
Posted 09/07/2012 5:56 pm
