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 Replies: 38 / Views: 10,340 |
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
627 Posts |
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Moderator
 United States
23522 Posts |
This is spectacular stuff, brg5658. Nothing else comes close to copper for camera-friendliness, and your holdings represent some of the finest proofs of the concept. I am in awe.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
9793 Posts |
Your lighting is perfect! I am still fighting with getting a constant and accurate color in my photos of copper-bronze coins. I'm getting a lot better to how they appear without any post adjustments though.
"Buy the Book Before You Buy the Coin" - Aaron R. Feldman - "And read it" - Me 2013! ANA Life Member #3288 in good standing since 1981, ANS, Early American Coppers Member (EAC), Colonial Coin Collectors Club member (C4), Conder Token Collector Club member (CTCC), Civil War Token Society (CWTS) member, Liberty Seated Collectors Club (LSCC) & Numismatic Bibliomania Society member (NBS), USMex, Member in good standing, 2¢ variety collector. See my want page: http://goccf.com/t/140440 |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
627 Posts |
This one came in the mail on Friday. In 1797, Peter Kempson issued 10 different penny-sized tokens (or more accurately, medalets) featuring London Buildings on the obverse and "Standing Justice" on the reverse. I simply couldn't resist this Ludgate token engraved by Thomas Wyon. My pictures don't do it any favors, but it appears almost as a proof in hand. The fields are glassy and almost completely mark free, with high relief devices. Both the obverse and reverse exhibit dark hues of blues and rose/pinks. This set of medalets was struck specifically for collectors (not intended for actual commerce), and in relatively small mintages of less than 200 of each design. The reverse reminds me of the Regal cartwheel issues of the same year, with inset lettering surrounding the central design. I have not seen a nicer example than this one, and I was delighted to add it to my collection. I'm so glad the ebay seller didn't know how to take better images, but knew how to take them just good enough so I could tell there was lovely color on this one!  1797 Middlesex/Kempson's penny token, Ludgate D&H-78 (scarce, mintage < 200)   |
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Rest in Peace
United States
10625 Posts |
Outstanding copper brg5658! I'm really enjoying the show (and tell).  |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
627 Posts |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
9395 Posts |
Excellent pictures of superb coins
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1298 Posts |
brg5658 could you show some pics of your setup with specifics (type of camera, lights, lenses, etc.) Thanks, Hamm.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
949 Posts |
 I too would like to see some pics of the lighting setup in particular. In 2013 it was three Janscos and some kind of snoot/"deflector" that Ray introduced. I'm building a setup and could sure use the model, since I have some questions. OTOH given the time lag, perhaps this is a proprietary thing that you would rather not show. If so, I will withdraw my request - but I hope that's not it. |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
627 Posts |
It's not proprietary!! I still use 3 Jansjos (from IKEA), and the Apo-Rodagon 75mm f/4 1:1 duplicating lens. My general set-up is to keep the lights very high:  I use deflectors that are made of translucent plastic rolled into a cylinder, then smashed at one end and taped close. I then insert some backing paper on the top side of the deflectors, and fit them over the Jansjo lamps. The deflectors I use look something like this:  I usually use 3 lights when lighting a coin, and one really has to be flexible on which positions they are placed because it depends on the coin in question. I use best judgment to light the coin as I would a human subject (e.g., do not light a bust from below, etc). I hope this helps a little. -Brandon |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
949 Posts |
Quote:
I hope this helps a little. Thank you, Brandon, it helps me a ton. Great graphics, BTW. Everything you have shown us is artistic. A great model to follow. I have read Ray's comments about keeping the lights up near the lens, with two lights at 10 and 2. Your third light adds a new wrinkle, and until all the components on my build have arrived, I can't test out how things will work. So your notes will help me determine whether or not I can do this by adding a third matched light to what I have, or should I start over with three Jansjo's. Please permit me to ask some questions, for you AND for Ray. [What I know leading to what I don't] 1. On the light sources: e.g. http://www.ebay.com/itm/221877415609At present I have two adjustable light sources for which I will be building some snoots. The bulb is inset into a housing which I can cover over with translucent plastic to soften the beam. But your deflectors seem to also elongate the shape of the light source. So, assuming a softlight scaled down for coins, are these acting more like floods or spots?
2. Color temperature - I have equipped my housings with 5000K lamps, which is closer to daylight. My understanding is that the Jansjo lights only come in one color temperature range, and that they are rated at 3000-3200K, which in the days of film cams put them close to the output of tungsten (aka "incandescent"). Both can be accommodated by white balance settings in the cam. I got used to daylight based on film availability, and never bothered to adjust that. Now I want to take another look. Since the Jansjos seem to be the preferred light source here, for shooting coins, does the color temperature (irrespective of white balancing) have anything to do with that? Do they have changeable "bulbs?" 3. The third lamp Three point lighting in a single plane. I get it for shadow control in 3D - does it work the same in a field under magnification? Beyond the obvious addition of light, I'm not clear about what the third lamp is intended to do that you cannot do with two. Is there a regular "plan" for the third lamp, or is it just angled around as you look at the finder screen? Mostly by feel? In my imagination it would perform a balancing fill to tone down harsh shadows. What does it do to the iridescence that is so characteristic of the shots you are showing here?
Edited by lrbguy
04/20/2016 11:56 am
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Pillar of the Community
United States
627 Posts |
Quote:1. On the light sources: e.g. http://www.ebay.com/itm/221877415609At present I have two adjustable light sources for which I will be building some snoots. The bulb is inset into a housing which I can cover over with translucent plastic to soften the beam. But your deflectors seem to also elongate the shape of the light source. So, assuming a softlight scaled down for coins, are these acting more like floods or spots? The deflectors helps to spread out the light a bit, and make the size of the point light source a bit larger. Jansjos suffer from being very concentrated light point sources -- they are a small point of phosphorescence painted on an electrode of some sort. If not diffused in some manner, they lead to "sparkles" of red and blue on subsequent shots. Quote:
2. Color temperature -
I have equipped my housings with 5000K lamps, which is closer to daylight. My understanding is that the Jansjo lights only come in one color temperature range, and that they are rated at 3000-3200K, which in the days of film cams put them close to the output of tungsten (aka "incandescent"). Both can be accommodated by white balance settings in the CAM. I got used to daylight based on film availability, and never bothered to adjust that. Now I want to take another look. Since the Jansjos seem to be the preferred light source here, for shooting coins, does the color temperature (irrespective of white balancing) have anything to do with that? Do they have changeable "bulbs?" They do not have changeable bulbs, and are LED based. Thus, they are rated for a VERY long number of hours. Assuming you are setting a custom white balance, you should be able to get properly lit images showing the luster well. Quote:
3. The third lamp
Three point lighting in a single plane. I get it for shadow control in 3D - does it work the same in a field under magnification? Beyond the obvious addition of light, I'm not clear about what the third lamp is intended to do that you cannot do with two. Is there a regular "plan" for the third lamp, or is it just angled around as you look at the finder screen? Mostly by feel? In my imagination it would perform a balancing fill to tone down harsh shadows. What does it do to the iridescence that is so characteristic of the shots you are showing here? Three years ago, I made a post on the NGC forum site regarding coin photo lighting. I would recommend giving that a look if you haven't already. It shows the differences in practice for how having 2 or 3 separate lights makes a difference. It's especially important for properly lighting the complete fields of larger coins. You can view that post here: http://boards.collectors-society.co...mber=6588288 |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
627 Posts |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
949 Posts |
Very pretty material, Brandon, and the way you capture the iridescence is magnificent.
The last time I asked this you gave us the schematic diagrams for your setup. I have appreciated them, but still struggle with getting an image of your actual gear. Would you be willing to go the next step and give us a photo glimpse of the light head and cone deflector you have rigged up? I am not getting a good vision for that. e.g. translucent plastic? From a sheet of some kind?
How much coverage with the "opague" black (art paper?)?
I now have a set of Jansjos (3) but have not settled on any directional/control attachments.
Edited by lrbguy
07/21/2016 4:10 pm
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Valued Member
United States
92 Posts |
Them are some great pictures. Hope to achieve that level in the near future. Thanks for all the great info...! Ray is working with me on a new set-up and with the proper lighting I should be able to get some what close...there seems to always be better with this hobby...!
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Posted 01/18/2014 09:54 am
