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Replies: 21 / Views: 3,386 |
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
19963 Posts |
The green is verdigris, not mold. The coins are corroded. Not sure about the "clay", post some pictures.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
3079 Posts |
Have 6 Ikes that were stacked one on top of each other with some form of adhesive to hold them together. When frozen over night the coins popped apart, due to old adhesive and the different expansion rates of the items.  Here are what they started life out with the adhesive that didn't come off when frozen.  This is my acetone can ( cat food tin with matching safety open lid. So far a lot has come off, the two in the can have been in since 1pm this afternoon. I will leave them in overnight. And see if that helps, soften the adhesive. since it is very old. can't hurt the value since the lowest it can go is 6 bucks, and that is twice what I paid for the stack.  Anybody have any other suggestion for conserving these coins? Thanks for the input.
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
19963 Posts |
Follow the solvent polarity ladder. Soak for 24 hours in the following solvent in this order:
1) distilled water 2) acetone 3) xylene
At the end of each soaking stage, keep the coin under fluid and try prodding the residue with a toothpick to see it will come off.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
624 Posts |
BadThad... what does the variation in soaking material do? I'm not sure what would be accoplished by a soak in distilled water (other than to remove Acetone and Xylene)...
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Moderator
 United States
188990 Posts |
Try distilled water first. If that works, you are done.
If not, try acetone. If that works, you are done.
If not, try xylene. If that works, you are done.
If not, you are still done, because anything else you try will ruin the coin.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
624 Posts |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1536 Posts |
That green "mold" I think is most likely PVC damage and it can be taken off with acetone. I generally don't just wash coins but like you said these were cheap. You can lightly use a q-tip on them I would soak in acetone and distilled water.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1536 Posts |
As far as what to start with I don't think it matters with nickel since it is much more sturdier and not volatile like copper. I switch back and forth but usually like to rinse with distilled water because I don't like leaving chemicals on coins. For a long soak, I usually use distilled water. I am soaking some cruddy V nickels now because I can't see how much "LIBERTY" is there.
Edited by buddy16cat 04/19/2013 03:50 am
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Pillar of the Community
United States
3079 Posts |
Here are the Ikes, after soaking in the acetone bath for 36 hours, staining of both sides were the adhesive was. 
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Moderator
 United States
188990 Posts |
They look much better now. 
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1536 Posts |
I am actually soaking a V nickels of my own. I realize that soaking in distilled water and acetone don't hurt coins but don't like going threw it without seeing improvements. This coin soaked for twenty four hours, the color of the stained areas was red but turned black so I am thinking maybe a longer soak may help it more. Others I am soaking are just really cruddy and hard to check out the grade or details. 
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Valued Member
 United States
240 Posts |
Thanks guys , will buy acetone today and work some magic!
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
19963 Posts |
Quote: BadThad... what does the variation in soaking material do? I'm not sure what would be accoplished by a soak in distilled water (other than to remove Acetone and Xylene)... Liquid solvents have differing polarities, i.e. charge differentials. Residues can also have a wide range of polarites, polar to non-polar. In chemistry, there's a saying "like dissovles like". In order for a solvent to be effective, it has to be "like" the residue. As an example, take some tar and try to dissolve it in water....nothing will happen. Now, take some tar and try to dissolve it in xylene, it will completely dissolve. Tar is a non-polar residue and xylene is a non-polar solvent, like dissolves like. You can also think about your hands. Work on a car and your hands are black with grease. Do you think simply rinsing them under water will clean them? Of course not, because grease and oil are non-polar and water is a highly polar solvent. Also, there is no need to rinse after using acetone or xylene, unless it's with more, fresh, clean acetone or xylene. Both solvents are volatile and will evaporate away on their own in seconds. In fact, I NEVER recommend letting ANY water on a coin surface since it was the root cause of corrosion. The final step should be acetone, which will remove all traces of water and dehydrate the surfaces. In the end, we want all traces of water removed before storage.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
3079 Posts |
Along the lines of what you should do and not do in cleaning coins. While placing an order for some storage boxes, so to make maximum use of space. I came across this booklet in their web catalog. Granted the first thing is it is describing their products,for cleaning of coins. They had some interesting info, along with what probably some that continues to give the lemon juice/powder and the "magic agent" (Baking Soda) life in the collectors circles. Probably for new people that buy this 6 pages booklet .50¢ It also describes using their version of the ultra sonic cleaning machine. When people search for info, whether it is on line on in brick and mortar shops. They tend to pick up on booklets like these or others. so it can feed the misinformation out there. As people talking at work or any other gathering convey misinformation on all subjects. It was more informative for what not to do to the coins. I am in no way endorsing the methods or products in this booklet. 
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Valued Member
 United States
240 Posts |
Bought the Acetone today, will clean this weekend and post before and after pictures!
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Replies: 21 / Views: 3,386 |
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