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How Do You Tell Sea Salvaged Gold From Not?

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Valued Member
Canada
129 Posts
 Posted 01/22/2014  07:32 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add uchihadesendent to your friends list
I agree with the post above when salt water is in contact with gold it will make little bubbles in the gold due to being in contact with it
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United States
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 Posted 01/22/2014  08:42 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add denco7 to your friends list

Quote:
How do you tell sea salvaged gold from not?


Not like there is a lot of "unattributed" gold coins laying around in shallow water for the nonprofessional to find. If you take a gold coin and sell it, you get melt, if you take the same coin, say that if is from this long lost wreck and has been under the sea for 200 years, your going to get a hefty premium. So I don't think anyone is going to try and sneak recovered coins in a sale.
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Canada
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 Posted 01/22/2014  09:58 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Bm0ney to your friends list
Sap, I've read "ship of gold"
Great novel about SS. Central America
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United Kingdom
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 Posted 01/22/2014  2:51 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Pertinax to your friends list
How do you tell if coins you see on sale described as "salvaged from a wreck" or similar descriptions, are truly that ?

I've occasionally seen very worn gold coins described that way but I also suspect I've seen modern cast forgeries of gold coins described as "salvaged from a wreck".

How does one tell the genuinely salvaged from very worn coins or cast forgeries ?
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 Posted 01/22/2014  10:43 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Westwood Arms to your friends list
I do not have the coin in hand but will post a picture when we get it. It is lot 28978 in Heritage auction #3031. It has a few dings and the hi-res pics show a lot of small nicks. Discussed this at length with fellow collectors and figured the quality of the strike outweighed the sea salvaged stigma. Needed a Chas. III 8E for the type set.

If I could just attribute this.
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16679 Posts
 Posted 01/22/2014  10:47 pm  Show Profile   Check vermontensium's eBay Listings Check vermontensium's eCrater Listings Bookmark this reply Add vermontensium to your friends list
I have some nuggets salvaged from the S.S. Central America. The sea water gives them a "lackluster appearance" making them look dull as opposed to fresh out of a river or stream.
swcoin.ecrater.com
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 Posted 01/22/2014  11:01 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Westwood Arms to your friends list
Does sea salvaged gold "color up" eventually? I stuck a white 1964 quarter in an old sulfur envelope a couple years ago as an experiment. I can't find it...AAARGH.
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 Posted 01/22/2014  11:18 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Westwood Arms to your friends list
Here is a pic of toned gold coin. The peripheral orange toning is nice.



How-Do-You-Tell-Sea-Salvaged-Gold-From-Not?
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 Posted 01/23/2014  02:28 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add realeswatcher to your friends list
Not that I play with gold that much, but I do observe...

Westwood, that 1777 8E has the prototypical surface for salvaged gold - that slightly frosted or matte or dull surface (depending on your descriptive preference). If you've seen a lot of 1715 Fleet gold, that look should be familiar. As mentioned, it's more from the slow effect of friction from sand, etc. that ever-so-slightly etches the surface... moreso than any chemical corrosion/etching like you'd see on silver (which gold, even alloyed, is generally immune from). Salt-water really should at most cause a few isolated slight pits in spots that might be slightly higher in copper (those which present as a slightly reddish spot on a piece with normal skin).

A few other thoughts:

-- Yes, slightly dull look, but does have a nice strike for Mexico portrait gold (no weak shield).

-- Will it tone? As you know (and showed), old collection gold gets that orange hue to it, but it's slow to develop and subtle. I'm not familiar with the intricacies of how gold alloy tones, so I can't comment there. One factor here of course is the effect that whatever chemical/acid wash it was given has had upon the reactivity of the surface. My experience with salvaged pieces is that whatever neutralizing they do at the end of conservation seems to somewhat retard any future toning. I wouldn't hold my breath...

ColonialJohn, any thoughts on that?

Of course, being in the slab won't help. If you decide you like the piece and want to hold it for a while... AND also want to give it a chance to possibly tone up somewhat... it probably needs to be cracked out.

Quote:
"TPGs will go MS for known wrecks but AU details for sea salvage..."

Eh... I understand how you're saying that an attributed wreck may get the benefit of the doubt over generic salvage, and that can in fact happen. However, there's a lot of subjectivity in grading cos.' handling of wreck material which I think can sometimes explain that observation. Dealing with salvage material is not their main area of expertise, and I think a lot may depend on what a given grader may happen to know or recognize about certain types of material... and then also whether a company has done bulk encapsulation for a certain wreck. That may influence the in-house knowledge of that material.

I also think there's subjectivity in the details grade that gets assigned b/c sometimes, it's not always easy to see past "seawear" to judge pre-existing "circulation wear". All the 1783 8R from the El Cazador are in theory "uncirculated"... but some are seaworn to the point where calling a given piece UNC would seem silly.

Another case is the well-preserved 1733-34 ducatons from the Vliegenthart (a whole chest of neat, tightly packed rows). I've seen pieces that are without any doubt specimens from this salvage slabbed with or without attribution... sometimes AU details, sometimes UNC details... sometimes even AU or UNC "problem-free" grades. Yet, they're all from the same batch, all UNC when they went down. Now, referring to what I said above, if the grader happens to be familiar with this material such that when he sees a high-grade 1734 ducaton with some scattered surface corrosion, he knows it's an UNC piece from the Vliegenthart, he will be inclined to call it "UNC details" (though "Vliegenthart" might not necessarily be noted). If someone isn't familiar, however, that same coin might get called "AU details" as an honest guess. So, it doesn't necessarily have to be that known provenance is DIRECTLY garnering a coin bonus points... it might be more indirect.

In this case, NGC went "AU details". It's definitely strong for an AU... whether it deserves "UNC details" is debatable. ANACS will actually call something "AU58 details" - that might apply here.

-- Potential attribution: I don't think that would ever be possible here... I don't know of any wreck that produced these in known quantities, and a quick check of Sedwick's online archives doesn't show any similar 8E with wreck provenance. Don't forget, a lot of times the origin of such material is, for obvious reasons, kept quiet on purpose. Probably the best you could get is to ask "someone who would know if", off the record, there is any kind of salvage that produced material like this.
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 Posted 01/24/2014  11:00 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add GERMANICVS to your friends list
Here is an 8 escudos coin which was part of the treasure recovered from the Nuestra Señora de la Luz in the early 90's.

At purchase, if I recall, one had the option of having the coins cleaned by experts of the auctions house, or, delivered as they were recovered.
I chose to have my 'pelucona' as it was recovered from the ocean floor of the coast of Montevideo after 240 years. The ship sank around 1751.

The surfaces clearly show a matte appearance, and some marine deposits, in addition to some minor scuffs. This is approximately how one may expect a gold coin to look like after recovery from salt water.

The appearance is obviously not the same as a non-salvaged coin, but I find still quite appealing. I guess this has also something to do with the purity of the gold used to strike the coin. I am guessing that the higher the copper and other impurity content, the more salt water corrosion damage would be incurred (?).

How-Do-You-Tell-Sea-Salvaged-Gold-From-Not?

How-Do-You-Tell-Sea-Salvaged-Gold-From-Not?
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 Posted 01/24/2014  2:46 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add realeswatcher to your friends list
Happen to see this today - stated wreck provenance, granted a problem-free grade. This is, I suppose, acceptable enough, yet the piece does have a slight bit of that matte look talked about:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1724-Nether...171217552918

GERMANICVS, thanks for posting that 8E... I figured someone might mention or post a Luz coin - it's one of the more prominent wreck sources of Spanish milled gold. They are another example of pieces that you sometimes see with no assigned wreck pedigree (but its origin is fairly certain from the year/mint/"look") slabbed problem free... and occasionally achieving a problem-free grade even WITH the pedigree.


Quote:
The appearance is obviously not the same as a non-salvaged coin...

Yup... certainly it's much more intact than silver would be in that setting (see the cob 8R recovered from that wreck)... However, it does have that flat/matte finish (though maybe to a slightly lesser degree than the 1777 8E). Regarding those accretions - in hand, does it look that's "into" the surface of the coin at all, or is it just topical residue?
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 Posted 01/25/2014  05:04 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add GERMANICVS to your friends list
realeswatcher, that is a good question. In fact, I have never tried to pry
the accretions loose, so I really cannot tell you whether its 'into' the coin
or just marine debris accumulated on the surface. It does look like the latter, though, and easy to remove.
However, for me, a sea-salvage coin has to look like one, so I much prefer this condition, rather than a cleaned example from the Nuestra Señora de la Luz. It has a much more interesting story to tell, imo.
That was an incredible recovery by the way. I believe I still have the catalogue from that sale.
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1962 Posts
 Posted 01/25/2014  05:53 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add realeswatcher to your friends list

Quote:
I much prefer this condition, rather than a cleaned example from the Nuestra Señora de la Luz. It has a much more interesting story to tell, imo.

Considering that almost every one you see IS stripped, I'd tend to agree... yours has just enough crud to be interesting, but not terribly distracting. Was interesting, by the way, how you recalled them offering a choice of conserved or not conserved...


Quote:
I believe I still have the catalogue from that sale.

Don't throw THAT ONE out (I was going to say "not that you'd be thinking of it" - but then I read about your Aureo cats.!)... That itself fetches a decent price (about USD 40-50, I believe)... referring to the Uruguayan river bed or something similar - as they hadn't yet figured out it was the Luz.
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Australia
21788 Posts
 Posted 01/25/2014  06:13 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add sel_69l to your friends list
I would reason that a mint fresh 22ct or 90% gold coin would loose some of it's mint bloom if left in sea water for several decades.
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1962 Posts
 Posted 03/07/2014  6:57 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add realeswatcher to your friends list
A prototypical example of the frosted/matte effect mentioned:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1724-Nether...171251870927
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