| Author |
Replies: 25 / Views: 4,868 |
Page 2 of 2
|
|
|
|
Moderator
 United States
23522 Posts |
They look straight to me.  Much betterer. Do you know why you've lost focus on the reverse of the Trime and the IHC?
|
|
Valued Member
United States
234 Posts |
Looks like you're getting some great photos. I especially like that SLQ. What sort of stand are you using for the camera?
|
|
Moderator
 United States
23522 Posts |
Quote: What sort of stand are you using for the camera?
It's a modified microscope stand, custom-built by CCF member rmpsrpms. I have one of his stands as well.
|
|
Pillar of the Community
United States
9792 Posts |
The tissue trick is one I also use with the jansjo lights, much better and even diffuse lighting.
Focus - Are you refocusing on each side of the coin? I refocus each time, sometimes (even at F/8) I still have trouble getting the entire coin in sharp focus, mainly the ones in slabs, the trouble is the coins are tilted inside the slab, so it's either adjust the slab or the camera to better get everything in focus sharply. I notice it the most on the older thick NGC slabs most often.
"Buy the Book Before You Buy the Coin" - Aaron R. Feldman - "And read it" - Me 2013! ANA Life Member #3288 in good standing since 1981, ANS, Early American Coppers Member (EAC), Colonial Coin Collectors Club member (C4), Conder Token Collector Club member (CTCC), Civil War Token Society (CWTS) member, Liberty Seated Collectors Club (LSCC) & Numismatic Bibliomania Society member (NBS), USMex, Member in good standing, 2¢ variety collector. See my want page: http://goccf.com/t/140440
|
|
Pillar of the Community
 United States
4038 Posts |
BELLOWS SETUP TIP OF THE DAY: Framing your shot
With the Canon tethering software, when you are in live view on PC monitor, you can turn on a grid pattern that helps with coin rotational alignment. The grid pattern is also customizable, so you can make more or fewer horizontal or vertical lines (independently) as needed to get the alignment to a particular coin if you want.
Getting the coin nicely aligned is usually a bit tricky since there is vertical and horizontal positioning as well as rotation to consider. The quick and dirty way to get perfect alignment is to make your magnification just a little on the low side so the coin is well within the boundaries of the final image size. For instance, your Rebel XS sensor is 3888x2592 pixels. For a final image size of 800x800, you would plan on a 3x downsize. This brings the original down to 1296x864, giving you 496 pixels in X and 64 pixels in Y to crop away. If you make the coin a bit smaller, say 750-780 pixels, you can leave a little room around it for a more natural vignetting. This gives you some room to not be so perfect in the original framing, so the coin can be placed a little off-center in Y (and very sloppy in X) and still come out perfect after cropping.
The real trick is in the rotation, and is another reason a bellows setup is very desirable. If you loosen the camera mount just a bit, the camera rotates freely. Once you get the coin "close" to the right position, you can rotate the camera to line it up perfectly, using the grid pattern as your guide. This greatly speeds framing since you don't need to touch the coin, just do a quick rotation of the camera and snap the shot. A quick downsizing by 3x, followed by a crop to 800x800, and you have a perfectly-framed shot every time.
|
|
Pillar of the Community
 United States
589 Posts |
Quote: Focus - Are you refocusing on each side of the coin? I refocus each time, sometimes (even at F/8) I still have trouble getting the entire coin in sharp focus, mainly the ones in slabs, the trouble is the coins are tilted inside the slab, so it's either adjust the slab or the camera to better get everything in focus sharply. I notice it the most on the older thick NGC slabs most often. That may be my problem. I was photographing large number of coins in different diameters and didn't refocus once it was set. I will play with the grid and refocusing tonight. Thanks
|
|
Pillar of the Community
United States
3076 Posts |
Hey I think your just on a learning curve...You have some GREAT pics and some that are not quite there..Thats part of learning on how to use your equipment......Your WHOLE SET up is just slightly more than I bought My camera alone..... You have been blessed from above, and CCF and RAY and DAVE to help you out with getting the costs down and getting started......and personnaly think you will improve greatly as you get to KNOW YOUR EQUIPMENT...I think your on the path.... Gene
|
|
Pillar of the Community
United States
3076 Posts |
by the way...THERE IS NO ONE FIXED POSITION.setting or focus....Each shot is measured on its own appearance. YOU the observer before you push the take picture button always see's it and adjusts it so it looks right within you own eye. THE setup is the first part of the lesson..next is observing and adjusting and taking the shot,,, then if its not right you adjust/tweek.. the fundamentals....Apeture/Light/ Shutter speed...
|
|
Moderator
 United States
23522 Posts |
Quote: That may be my problem. I was photographing large number of coins in different diameters and didn't refocus once it was set.
I will play with the grid and refocusing tonight. Thanks You should be manually focusing every single shot. With the ability to see Live View on your monitor at full sensor size (note the magnification controls at the bottom right of the Live View screen), you need never have an out-of-focus shot again.
|
|
Pillar of the Community
 United States
589 Posts |
|
|
Pillar of the Community
 United States
589 Posts |
|
|
Pillar of the Community
 United States
4038 Posts |
The images in previous post were better focused. In this group the 1810 and 1836 reverses are in sharp focus, but the others have varying degrees of defocus. How are you confirming critical focus?
Contact me for photographic equipment or visit my home page at: http://macrocoins.com
|
|
Pillar of the Community
 United States
589 Posts |
|
|
Pillar of the Community
 United States
4038 Posts |
Ahh, the unsharpness may be lens related. I would not recommend using f4 at all. For Dimes/Cents/Nickels/Quarters, use f5.6. For Halves and Dollars, use f8.
Only the 1810 Half looks sharp to me.
You say you're enlarging the screen. Is this the first, full sensor screen? Or the Zoom screen? You should not use the full sensor screen for critical focusing. Use the full sensor screen for coarse focusing, to frame the shot, get the coin rotation level, and adjust lighting. Then pick an area of the coin that has some height variation, such as the point where Liberty's neck, chin, and the coin's field all meet near the middle of the coin. Zoom in using the magnifier function, and adjust your focus until the MIDDLE height feature is in best focus. This should make the highest and lowest features also in reasonable focus. If not, stop the lens down by one stop (from f5.6 to f8, for instance) and check focus again, then snap the shot.
Contact me for photographic equipment or visit my home page at: http://macrocoins.com
|
|
Pillar of the Community
 United States
589 Posts |
You say you're enlarging the screen. Is this the first, Quote: full sensor screen? Or the Zoom screen? You should not use the full sensor screen for critical focusing. Use the full sensor screen for coarse focusing, to frame the shot, get the coin rotation level, and adjust lighting. Then pick an area of the coin that has some height variation, such as the point where Liberty's neck, chin, and the coin's field all meet near the middle of the coin. Zoom in using the magnifier function, and adjust your focus until the MIDDLE height feature is in best focus. This should make the highest and lowest features also in reasonable focus. If not, stop the lens down by one stop (from f5.6 to f8, for instance) and check focus again, then snap the shot. I will try your suggestions tonight and there is a testing site on this forum that I had over looked.
|
|
Page 2 of 2
|
Replies: 25 / Views: 4,868 |
Page 2 of 2
|