1932 D Quarter

Looks like a fake.

The d looks like it was added on.

Looks nothing like the MM in the early pic . . . . at all. You have super resolution in the MM pic. I would like to see that entire image. Or is it the same shot?
I have heard the commons expression "if it looks fake it is probably real and if it looks real is probably fake.
Very common (almost required) to have the MM sitting in a sort of recess. Usually with black surrounding it.
I definately did NOT stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night, so people please jump in!!

I gave her the ol' Jesse's 32 D Test.

Open any high AU or UNC 32-D reverse photo up in a photo editor or paint and run some azimuths. It's pretty darn near fool proof because toolers and counterfeiters have a very difficult time replicating the mint's production consistency.

The line should run as centered as possible through the D. On an authentic coin, it will hug the eastern edge of the "R's" vertical column, the eastern edge of the eagle's right leg, the eastern edge of the eagle's eye, and will touch the "E" in STATES. I'll also mess around with the geometric shape illustrated which is also always consistent. I used to do something similar w/ type B coins.




I invite others to test this on various 32-D's and let me know what you think.

I've actually found that you can shoot it from worse angles than yours and it still holds true. You'd have to shoot at an entirely "un-sellable" angle for it not to work, really. It's still obviously only one way to test but I think it's a pretty good one.

Jon, I really am the last person who should be commenting on the minting processes of the early 30's... but my GUESS would be that they would have used only one working die unless it broke. If it didn't, they may have tended to it, but this would have little to no effect on the mm's placement. If it did, they would have just made another from the master hub. I think the master hub would be the only real possible "culprit" in terms of varied mm placements on such a low run of silver coins? I still don't think even a possible master hub "change" would come close to the geometrical anomalies I have observed on proven counterfeit coins in terms of the mm positioning. All I can say with certainty is that most counterfeit 32-Ds will not pass the test. I hope more try for themselves and comment.

Same treatment from the center of the "T".

My thoughts:
Does it have MS details....Yes
Is it authentic....Yes
Should a coin like this be slabbed....Yes
Has it been cleaned....Yes
Would I purchase it....No (because of the cleaning; unless he gave me a really good deal).