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 Replies: 18 / Views: 4,456 |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
8137 Posts |
Try comparing yours to my 1916-S half. Maybe there is a diagnostic you can look for.  Just going by the mintage numbers, yours is likely a 1917. |
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New Member
 United States
13 Posts |
Thanks for the replies. I see a part of a "1" on it, which is no help. I was wondering if there are any die differences between 1916 and 1917 (could not find any help in the resources that I looked at).
1916 and 1917 are the only coins from this series with mintmarks on the obverse, and there is about a 4x multiple price difference between 1916 and 1917 which is why I am asking.
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Moderator
 United States
15530 Posts |
To the best of my knowledge ... there are no definitive diagnostic differences in truly worn condition between the two coins. The Walker skirt line was changed in 1921 ... but that post-dates both of your coins. You need to be able to see a hint of the date to correctly identify ... sorry. FWIW ... this coin is a slam dunk for a true lowball grade of FR02 if specifically identifiable ... which I am doubting can be done. Not to steal your thread ... but for information sharing ... here is a photo of a 1916-S PCGS FR02 Walker ... lowball Pop 18/0 ...  Alas ... no visible date means no definitive identification between the two coins. David |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1536 Posts |
1916 has an obverse "S". 1917 there are two versions, "S" obverse and "S" reverse. I do not know how to tell the difference without the date and wondering the value without the date. Melt?
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1358 Posts |
 This is what I'm seeing. Inside that blue box looks to me like a 6. The arrow is pointing to the same height as where I'm seeing the hole of the 6's loop. Only about half of the 6 is visible, from half of the riser down to about half of the base part. Please tell me I'm not crazy lol Edited by coinsearcher83
02/16/2015 8:54 pm
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Pillar of the Community
United States
8521 Posts |
Try tilting the coin to put a glare on the date. That will help sometimes.
Oregon coin geek.....*** GO BEAVS ! ! ! ***
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Pillar of the Community
United States
5212 Posts |
Looks like a 1916 to me (thanks to a quick Photoshop and the images posted) It looks like a closer match in the small pic than the blown up version of the same.   |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1391 Posts |
That comparison (nice job Jack  ) does it. Looks IMO like a 1916. |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1536 Posts |
Yeh, I was thinking that too, maybe a higher resolution pic will reveal the date. I have a 1870 Shield nickel like that. The date was not revealed until I took a high resolution scan. |
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New Member
United States
13 Posts |
Thank you for that! I will try to take a higher resolution picture and compare as you did, but it looks like the placement of what I thought was a "1" is actually in the place of the "6" and is the cross section of that 6. A much rarer coin has been identified... I thank all of the internet coin sleuths who helped me.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
602 Posts |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1450 Posts |
What is a 1916 Walker with no date worth anyway? I wonder if some acid or substance would bring out the date. They use something to bring out numbers on guns and engines, but they are not silver. Just wondering.
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
5828 Posts |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
4409 Posts |
Quote:
I wonder if some acid or substance would bring out the date. There is nothing to restore dates on silver and any attempt would damage the coin. If it certified as a 1916-S P-01/FR-2 lowball I'd say there would be considerable interest in the coin. -MV |
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New Member
United States
13 Posts |
I am not a member of ngc or pcgs so I would need a local dealer to do this for me. I still dont think I could get the G4 price for this coin. If I could get a decent price I might be interested in selling or trading it for a better/more legible date version.
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Posted 02/16/2015 7:14 pm
