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Which Lincoln Cents (Non-Proof) Are Undervalued?

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314 Posts
 Posted 11/05/2007  2:34 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add chevrolet454ss to your friends list
Bruce,

I know the Keys are tough in those sets. I learned from trying to build serval sets. I think sets on ebay are undervalued for what you get I am learning .

In the 1960 and 1970 the babyboomers built tons of sets 1909 thru 1974 sets. On ebay after buying maybe 10 sets to strip out for keys like 1909 thru 1915 s, 1924d, 1922d, 31s, 1914d, . I learned its cheaper buy incomplete sets than single coins on ebay. I got the idea from an dealer in houston. They buy sets and sell coins as singles in there store.

My last strip out set I bought I paid 24 bucks after shiping. I pulled the 1910s, 1911d, 1912d, 1913d, 1913s, 1915d 1921s, 1923s, . It was almost complete 1909 thru 1940. After pulling the semi keys from set. I still have maybe 35 coins lefht. All the keys above would cost 69 dollars from an mail ordor coin shop that sells the cents. Serval monlths ago I bought an set for 100 bucks that had an 1914d cent in set. It was incomplete set. The 1914d cent would cost 225 to 399 at any coin dealer on ebay or there retail store.

The key words to search for on ebay are to find those sets. Collection, whitman, foldor, set to find those lots of pennies. So if was you I would be buying sets to strip out coins to build your set. My strip out sets later I will dump on ebay since they are no use to me anymore. Its all common date junk in wore out old blue foldors . Its an lot cheaper buying single coins to build sets.

Chevrolet454ss
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 Posted 11/05/2007  2:36 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add coop to your friends list
I would only buy when you can get BU coins. These will increase in value over the long haul. I agree with Metalman. The teens, twenties, D & S coins in the highest grade you can find will bring in the most money in the long run. Everyone want to buy the best in these years, the best they can find so there will always be a big return on those coins. The coins from the late 30, the 40's 50's, 60's in BU are easier to find. So concentrate on the older BU coins with mint marks. The BU Philly ones are easier to find, but the D & S are the harder to find.
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 Posted 11/05/2007  3:15 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add littleboy to your friends list
semi-keys.. 10s, 11s, 12s, 14s, 15d, 15s, 21s, 22d, 23s, 24d, 24s, 26s, 31d, 33d
in 2009, with the new cent designs, lincolns will become more and more popular, driving up demand, which wont affect common dates much, and keys are already high in demand, so the semi-keys will have the greatest value increase percentage.
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 Posted 11/05/2007  7:13 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add just carl to your friends list
If I was just starting a Lincoln Cent set I would just try to make one set complete and not worry about multiples of anything. If you start accumulating multiples of just the expensive coins it becomes to much of an investment, not a hobby, and to much fun evaporates. Then as already mentioned it becomes how much, how much, how much. Where can I sell it, trade it, etc. I suggest just trying to get one nice, complete set and if some are high grades and some low, so what. They are yours and it's supposed to be a hobby. Supposed to be fun. Way to many turn a hobby into a thing of money, money, money.
Of course this all sort of depends on your age I guess. I remember way, way back when I used to wonder how much my collection is worth. Now after well over 60 years of collecting, someone else soon enough will be trying to figure that out.
As to odd things with coins. I spent many years trying to find a 1920D Lincoln Cent in an MS grade. Of course I only buy at coin shows.
Valued Member
United States
101 Posts
 Posted 11/05/2007  9:02 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add sllyonsjr421 to your friends list
If I had a few hundred a month to spend I would get the 1910-s, 1911-s, 1912-s, 1913-s, 1914-s, 1915-s, 1922-d, 1924-d, 1926-s, 1931-d, 1932, 1932-d, and 1933-d in as good of condition as possible the first month possibly two if you go very high grade. Then the next month I would go for a 1909-s and 1931-s in as high of condition as possible, and finally the next two months I would save up for a 1914-d. The reason I would do it in this order is that the early teen s mints that are semi keys are going up almost daily in price. 8 months ago you could get some nice examples for maybe 12-18 dollars. Now it is hard to find nice grades like VF+ for under 30-50 bucks on a few. The keys 1909-s, 1931-s, 1924-d to some extent and 1914-d are holding their own or only very slightly increasing right now. This is all based on my own research on ending auction prices on ebay. I watch these very closely as I play the buy and resell game on ebay and want to maximize my profit margin. The common dates are always available and they are rising slightly but nothing big. The other thing that I would suggest acquiring as soon as possible after the keys and semi keys is to get the Gem BUs from 1934-1940 as this set is going up pretty quickly. I have built one for around 120ish before but that number is going up every month. This is all for raw coins btw I do not deal or even keep track of graded coins at all. Hope this makes some sort of sense and can help you out at all! Steve
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138 Posts
 Posted 11/05/2007  10:22 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Homer1 to your friends list
Hi, The 1931 S is the most under value Penny due to low mintage. I found if you go to your local coin shop you may more than likely get a better deal if you negotiate in person for the 1909 S VDB. This coin will only increase as time go's by. Bring coins you don't need for a trade off that will reduce cost.
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 Posted 11/05/2007  10:42 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add SA4H to your friends list
Thank you very much guys. All your information are very helpful. I wished I started this hobby earlier. I started set aside some coins in 1999 and 2000 as the State Quarter program started but then I didn't know what I was doing and did not continue...... I just started to get back since the beginning of this month.

But then I was on the wrong track again, I bought 2 set of State Quarter Silver Proof (1999-2006) and a whole bunch of other slabbed coin. I guess I have to start selling them off for my Lincoln Album.

I wish I know this forum sooner!!
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 Posted 11/05/2007  10:49 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add BadThad to your friends list
I'm going to say don't worry about multiples, unless you're investing and not collecting. As a consequence of building a complete collection, you're going to end up with multiples anyway.

If you're a collector....I'm going against the grain a bit here...but an easy and cheap fast start is to buy a BU 1959-current complete roll. Less than $20 anywhere and it ends the memorial part part. If you get any duds, buy another roll, replace.....they're cheap.

I agree with the key dates focus. The prices are going up. Another good idea is the BU 1930-1933. I've been working on those for the past few months and they are TOUGH to get all in BU at a reasonable cost. The 31D BU price has gone up a LOT lately.
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19951 Posts
 Posted 11/05/2007  10:59 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add BadThad to your friends list
I forgot to add my undervalued, rising, hard to get. LOL

BU Coins:

Amazingly cheap. I know the mintages don't make your eyes pop out, but these are almost 100 years old!

1909 VDB
1909


Going up everyday!
1932D
1933
1933D
1934D

Sleepers for now:

1944S
1945S
1946S
1947S
1948S
1949S (My favorite sleeper Lincoln, lowest mintage 40's coin)



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 Posted 11/06/2007  01:32 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add SA4H to your friends list
Nice list, Thad. Thanks
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 Posted 11/06/2007  01:34 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add yechi7 to your friends list
quote:
If you're a collector....I'm going against the grain a bit here...but an easy and cheap fast start is to buy a BU 1959-current complete roll.


I bought a nice BU set on ebay 1954 to current for minimally more than the 1959 set. Well worth it.

Re Undervalued: I've been told by many, & I agree, that the most undervalued Lincoln is the 1931-S & it's available in AU-MS condition for a great price. The 1909-S is almost the exact same price from G to F. Then the 1909-S price begins to skyrocket & the 1931-S price increases minimally in comparison, especially in MS condition
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 Posted 11/06/2007  01:37 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add USArmyParatrooper to your friends list
As was said before, pick up the keys and semi-keys first. It kind of sucks because for the same money you can be filling a LOT of holes. But at the same time when the tough holes get filled the rest is just a matter of time.
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 Posted 11/06/2007  08:13 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add BadThad to your friends list
I have to also agree on the 1931S. It's easy to find MS grade examples for $100-150....I was surprized they were not more expensive.
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 Posted 11/06/2007  09:08 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add biokemist6 to your friends list
The 1931-S is the 1950-D nickel of the Lincoln Cent world. It was hoarded in very high numbers leading to a large surviving population of AU-MS coins. It will probably never see dramatic price increases like other rare Wheaties with lower surviving numbers but it will still always be a semi-key coin
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 Posted 11/07/2007  12:13 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add SA4H to your friends list
Very good point, biokemist6....

So, the 1931S is a rare coin, but its condition (lots of hoarding) made it "less rare" in high grade; which is the opposite of "conditional rarities".....

I'll hit the coin shop this weekend then.... can't wait for those price to keep on rising.
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