| Author |
 Replies: 34 / Views: 6,301 |
Page 3 of 3
|
|
|
|
New Member
 Indonesia
13 Posts |
Thanks everyone for information. If a few of them are fake then it leads me to believe that they were bought from coin sellers, less so that were handed down from previous generations. They are over 20 year old fakes then.
For the 1733 8 r for example when did people make fakes of them approx? Before the internet. I guess I'm asking is there a period in modern times when fakes started really showing up for old coins? 60's 70's 80's etc?
I'm a little regretting not getting the story of them from my dad. He did travel the world from the early 50's.
Thanks again
|
|
New Member
Indonesia
13 Posts |
Quote:
I am afraid I will have to weigh in on the side of fake for the 1733 coin that started this thread. Among various red flags that have already been pointed out such as the odd edge, the shape of the "33" in the date is all wrong. I am posting a photo of one of my 1733's, sea salvaged, 100% genuine and you will see the obvious difference in the font for the date numerals. Thanks jfransch, yes I see the differences in font in some places and spacing. Didn't notice the deformation in the VNU"M" till just now. |
|
New Member
Indonesia
13 Posts |
Quote:I thought I might be misreading that. But now I am having difficulty in reading the dates on the 2 with the standing figure, looks like 1704 or 1794?. Both of those dates will be wrong for that style of coin. Looks like that style started in 1795. Regardless, at first I thought they will be Netherlands East Indies coins based on your location, but they are both coins of the Netherlands. The 1g looks as if it has some solder on it and a filled hole which will hurt its value. But overall it looks good based on those pics. The 5G just has a funny appearance and lack of detail makes me suspicious that it might be a fake. The 3G http://www.ngccoin.com/price-guide/..5-duid-78650The 1G http://www.ngccoin.com/price-guide/..3-duid-78530 Hi Rdwarrior, it's hard to decipher even in good light. I don't have a magnifier yet but from what I can see it looks like the left side of that numeral comes down farther than a 9 would. Strange, looking at it as I type if I angle it to the right it looks 1704. To the left 1794. Thanks for the price guides. |
|
New Member
Indonesia
13 Posts |
Quote:
tcoins the two Canadian 5 cent pieces are made of pure nickel so they are attracted to a magnet. I will say they are real. I put a weak magnet over all the coins and those two nickels had a solid attraction. The small toy magnet was so weak that I'm not sure if some of the bigger ones had a slight pull or not. Will find a bigger magnet. |
|
Pillar of the Community
United States
4409 Posts |
Quote:
Meadow view, nickel will not be attracted to a magnet. Don't know where you're getting your information from but here is what Wikipedia (take it for what it's worth) Quote:
The larger base metal version made of nickel, and called a "nickel," was introduced as a Canadian coin in 1922, originally as 99.9% nickel metal. These coins were magnetic, due to the high nickel content. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nickel...nadian_coin) |
|
New Member
Indonesia
13 Posts |
I would like to sell some of these coins. Any advice? I live in Indonesia
|
|
Valued Member
United States
73 Posts |
iron, nickel, cobalt, gadolinium, neodymium and samarium are magnetic metals. silver is not magnetic although it has a re-active property to stronger magnets (most commonly used is neodymium).
not qouting my source cause I dont wanna.
|
|
New Member
Indonesia
13 Posts |
Quote:Hello tcoins and welcome to the forum. I am afraid I will have to weigh in on the side of fake for the 1733 coin that started this thread. Among various red flags that have already been pointed out such as the odd edge, the shape of the "33" in the date is all wrong. I am posting a photo of one of my 1733's, sea salvaged, 100% genuine and you will see the obvious difference in the font for the date numerals.  JF could I get a picture of your coin's edge? |
|
Pillar of the Community
United States
1801 Posts |
I have not yet figured out a way to scan the edge of a coin, all I have to work with is an old flat plate scanner. I will see if I can find someone with a camera I can use. I can tell you the edge has salt water damage, this was one of a clump of coins found off the Florida Keys and carefully "conserved" by the salvage diver (who is a good friend of mine).
|
|
Pillar of the Community
France
1591 Posts |
Your 1733 is amazing, jfransch :)
As for the edge, the easiest / best way I found for now is by using any camera, I do it that way :
* Put the coin under strong light (outdoor, or indoor with a proper light)
* Hold the coin from the edge in your hand between two fingers, flat
* Focus the camera using the other hand on the surface of the coin, lock focus (on most cameras, it's halfway on the shoot button)
* Rotate the coin to see the edge and a good part of the surface - you can move a bit the camera then to adapt (control using the screen)
* Shoot :)
|
|
New Member
Indonesia
13 Posts |
Hello,
If anyone can advise.
How can I sell any of these decent coins?
Rgds
|
|
Pillar of the Community
Austria
566 Posts |
I am sorry to disappoint you, these coins were probably bought during a trip to china (or other asian country in the area) , where cheap non-silver forgeries for tourists were sold for $2 a dozen as early as the 70s (until today). They are not much more worth today, as they are still being sold for the same price (they do appear even as sets in pvc-sheets) therefore it might be had to get any money for them at all.
|
|
Valued Member
Norway
89 Posts |
Sayang sekali, tapi saya setuju dengan coinworldtv: mata uangmu palsu...
|
|
New Member
Indonesia
13 Posts |
1733 Mexico 8 reales Mo-MF its 25.44 grams
|
|
New Member
Spain
5 Posts |
Staff edit - removed external link of new user
|
|
Page 3 of 3
|
Replies: 34 / Views: 6,301 |
Page 3 of 3
|
First Page
Previous Page
Posted 04/04/2015 10:54 pm
