Restoring Dates To Silver Coins- Help!

I think that the OP just wants to see what the date is. he's not interested in value. I'm in the same shoes. I have 4 SLQ with "S" mints on them and I would just like to see what they are. So even if I use some kind of acid, at least I know what date it is and my quarter is still worth $2.75 (or whatever spot silver is at the time).

Edit: It may cost a few bucks but to me it would be worth it just to know. I mean I throw away lots of bucks doing worthless things lots of times and/or giving my wife money for useless shopping. Its not like I HAVE to make a profit or avoid a loss. Sometimes satifying curiosity is worth a few bucks, especially since these bucks now days are near worthless (or at least getting closer and closer to worthless).

The technique that works with nickels does not apply to silver. With nickels, the metal is slightly compressible. Silver does not have the same properties.

I have heard about the potential for x-ray's to determine the date. I guess if some college kid ever had the time and access to the right equipment (say in the field of anthropology) to do the experiments and write up a paper, it may be possible to get TPG's to start doing it and slabbing the coins with a date.

We are talking some serious effort and time before such a thing would even happen though.

A long time ago I had some Silver Date-Back that did what you all are asking. I found 1918 and 1920-S SLQs and brought back the 'Liberty' on some Barber dimes with HIDEOUS results. To keep from further damaging coins, I threw it away. Now I wish more than ever that I had kept it as I do not remember the acid composition. What I DO remember is that it bubbled like hydrogen peroxide and gave off a metally (?) smell when it was etching the silver. It worked just like Nic-A-Date. I cannot locate the stuff, nor have I seen it since. Maybe a shop that etches PC boards might have something. Maybe something for copper, too...

I need to respectfully disagree with the people who repeatedly post comments on this board suggesting that acid-restoring a date renders a coin worthless. Perhaps it may according to RedBook or Grey Sheet values, but in reality, value is set by the price the market will bear.

Dateless coins are generally that way for a reason...they are severely worn and of little value based solely on their overall condition. Acid-restoring the date is not going to hurt the value of these coins, because they essentially have no value to begin with.

In the case of silver, the coins are worth only melt value whether or not they have been restored...but they could be worth more if a key date is revealed in the restoration.

In the case of Buffalo nickels, those with acid-restored dates generally sell for more than no-date nickels and, again, they could be worth significantly more if the restoration reveals a key date.

The benefit to restoring is that the severely worn coins are generally older dates, and possibly key dates. Key date coins have value even if they are acid-restored. I understand that most of the hard-core collectors on this board don't see any value in them; however, beginners see the value, as do collectors with limited finances who want to fill holes in their albums.

A few weeks ago I posted some photos of a horrible looking 1918 Buffalo nickel. If it were to be graded, it would probably end up as either "FR-2 Acid-Restored" or (at best) "AG-3 Acid-Restored." The restored date showed what appeared to be a 7 under the 8. People from this board seemed to agree that it was most likely a 1918/17. In my opinion, it wasn't worth the cost of joining ANACS and the cost of attributing/grading, since it was in such bad condition and wouldn't have significant value either way. However, even in its horrible, unattributed condition, I found somebody who paid me $60 shipped for it.

I know it isn't much, especially to the hard-core collectors, but it's sure a heck of a lot more than the $.15 that it was worth when it was a no-date.

I've never personally restored a coin, but I'm giving serious thought to doing some. It's all a personal decision, but to render a coin valueless simply because the date has been restored is wrong. I agree it devalues the coin, but it doesn't necessarily make it valueless.

I agree with you mahgobbi. Standing Liberty quarters that are dateless have only buillion value, but if there is a way to restore the date and it reveals a 23S or a 21, I'm sure someone would pay more than current buillion for it.

Quite a few of my dateless SLQ are mint marked, so if there is a way to restore them, I'm very eager to try. I'd do a non-mint makred coin first to test it and if it works go to a mint marked coin.

So does anybody know any tricks to restoring dates to silver coins?

Looking at jewelery sites, there is a slow etching chemical for silver (or copper for that matter).

A 55% by weight solution of Ferric Nitrate. This is iron or iron oxide that has been reacted with nitric acid.

As with nic-a-date, you want to neutralize or completely rinse off all the chemicals after you are happy with the date.

I think with nitric acid the date appears and then the silver tarnishs to quickly before it can be removed. Thus you get a really black layer. Plus it is not as dangerous (though slightly toxic).

Additional info:

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Iron(III) nitrate

IUPAC name Iron(III) nitrate nonahydrate
Other names Ferric nitrate
Identifiers
CAS number [7782-61-8]
RTECS number NO7175000
Properties
Molecular formula Fe(NO3)3¡¤9H2O
Molar mass 242 g/mol (anhydrous)
Appearance Pale violet crystals
Density 1.68 g/cm3, Solid
Melting point 47.2¡ãC

Solubility in other solvents Soluble in Water, alcohol, acetone
Structure
Coordination
geometry octahedral
Hazards
MSDS External MSDS
Main hazards Oxidizing Agent
NFPA 704 230
R-phrases 8-36/37/38
S-phrases 17-26-36
Related compounds
Related compounds FeCl3
Except where noted otherwise, data are given for
materials in their standard state
(at 25 ¡ãC, 100 kPa)
Infobox disclaimer and references
Iron(III) nitrate, or ferric nitrate, is the chemical compound with the formula Fe(NO3)3¡¤9H2O. It forms colourless to pale violet crystals that are deliquescent; i.e., crystals form a pool of water if left in open to the atmosphere. The compound is prepared simply by treating iron metal or iron oxides with nitric acid.

Ferric nitrate is the catalyst of choice for the synthesis of sodium amide from a solution of sodium in ammonia:[1]

2NH3 + 2Na ¡ú 2NaNH2 + H2
Ferric nitrate supported on certain clays have been shown to be useful oxidants in organic synthesis. For example, this reagent, called "Clayfen" has been employed for the oxidation of alcohols to aldehydes and thiols to disulfides.[2]

Ferric nitrate solutions are used by jewelers and metalsmiths to more safely and cleanly etch silver and silver alloys.

What markers do you look for on the 1916 vs 1917 type I, as I do have a couple of no mint marked Type Is.

Thanks for the update on ferric nitrate. I've tried nitric acid straight up and it doesn't do much.