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 Replies: 21 / Views: 1,845 |
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
7953 Posts |
Quote:
I collect coins I like - condition is irrelevant. Amen. I would add "and can afford." To those of us who collect medievals, XF, AU or UNC is often out of the question (though not always ...). Then there are weak strikes, old dies, etc. I've even bought coins you can see through due to a planchet defect! It's all part of the history of the coin, which for some of us holds a large part of the collector value.  Edited by tdziemia
07/07/2024 06:33 am
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Pillar of the Community
Australia
9416 Posts |
I will take any coin, in any grade, if I don't already have it, as long as I can make out the date. I can always upgrade later on. Like this one..  Or this one.  We don't all have deep pockets. Edited by triggersmob
07/07/2024 06:47 am
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New Member
 United States
29 Posts |
I fear my post has been misinterpreted or taken as insulting. Certainly not the case! I can stay in high grade because most common date libs are close to spot and plenty of Morgs are around in MS 61-63 for a low price point. I decided at that point, I could afford the higher grade. Offer me a 1792 Half Disme in any condition and I won't complain :-) Edited by Doc1880
07/07/2024 08:18 am
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
18681 Posts |
 depends on the series. when I was looking for a early dime for my type set. I bought an 1805 4-berry JR2 in FR2. thats my lowest grade coin |
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Bedrock of the Community
United Kingdom
17956 Posts |
I'm much like january1may. I'll go through dealers' junk bins sometimes and pull out coins I don't have and buy them regardless of condition. For more modern coins I'll always try to upgrade them: if I've got a scratched XF US dime from the 1990s, I'll look for a better one on my next trip to the States. For older coins like UK Victorian Young Head issues, I try to get one really nice example of each denomination and then buy lower grade coins of other dates to make up a date set.
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Moderator
 Australia
16837 Posts |
No lower limit for me. I tend not to buy the high grade stuff if lower grade stuff is available. Too high-maintenance.
Don't say "infinitely" when you mean "very"; otherwise, you'll have no word left when you want to talk about something really infinite. - C. S. Lewis
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New Member
United States
29 Posts |
Sap-
Expound upon that. If slabbed, where do you find high maintenance? I'm interested in that comment to learn more.
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Moderator
Australia
16837 Posts |
I hate slabbed coins.
"Having to be slabbed" is part of the "high maintenance" thing.
Don't say "infinitely" when you mean "very"; otherwise, you'll have no word left when you want to talk about something really infinite. - C. S. Lewis
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New Member
United States
29 Posts |
Ahh, ok! Definitely two camps there for sure. I'm a big fan of slabs (still purchasing the coin not the grade) but I completely understand those who want to hold history without barriers as well.
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
18681 Posts |
I'm with Sap. I've only slabbed couple coins in my entire collecting career and the only reason was that I was preparing to sell them. i'll buy a slabbed coin if I really like it but will not pay a premium for the slab. if I was buying a coin most likely it would be going into an album and I want to see it next to the others. laying out a bunch of slabs next to each other is not the same.
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New Member
United States
29 Posts |
I think Gold is the exception to the rule. So many really good fakes. I just would prefer a gold coin slabbed for additional piece of mind personally.
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Moderator
United States
188924 Posts |
Speaking strictly of my slabbed coins, the lowest graded Ike I have purchased is MS-63. I have three MS-64, which was the limit I thought I had set until I needed to fill the 1972 Variety 2 spot with the affordable MS-63. For what it is worth, I have a "lowball" AG-03 Ike for fun, but it was a gift and clearly the exception.  |
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Pillar of the Community
Russian Federation
5174 Posts |
Quote:
I tend not to buy the high grade stuff if lower grade stuff is available. Too high-maintenance. - tend to avoid the MS-range grades because my storage sucks and I know it sucks and I don't really expect myself to be able to not damage a MS coin over the next few years. That said, I do like an AU or XF coin with good details if it doesn't cost (much) more than a F/VF example (common for modern coins), and if a coin is readily available in MS but scarce in lower grades (common for proof coins and NCLT) I'm willing to get a MS example just because that's what exists and it's not like a VF would be any cheaper even if I somehow found one. (I do have a few slabbed coins in my collection, though most of them were gifts and I don't actually recall if I've ever bought one. I do not expect to slab any of my raw coins anytime soon... though I can't rule out this happening in an exceptional situation - e.g. if I somehow find a rare key date US coin in a junk bin I'd probably have to slab it.) |
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
26188 Posts |
I collect silver coins that are proof, certified or uncirculated.
I buy proof coins that are in OGP with a COA so there's no choice in grade or condition.
I buy certified slabbed coins that are MS-70 or MS-69 but nothing below that. Lately I've been buying MS-70 only.
I buy brilliant uncirculated and sometimes Gem BU coins if the price is right.
My American Silver Eagle collection http://goccf.com/t/448125My random silver coin collection http://goccf.com/t/449270My MS-70 silver coin collection https://goccf.com/t/490829My dragon silver coin collection https://goccf.com/t/490859 |
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Moderator
United States
96728 Posts |
When looking for coins to fill my Dansco albums I look for MS coins, if after a very Looonng search, I'll settle on high AU.
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Posted 07/07/2024 06:32 am
