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 Replies: 25 / Views: 5,086 |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1315 Posts |
Look at the zero in the date...1809...it seems to wide in the center..... even for ware. IMO.
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Valued Member
United States
327 Posts |
The question is where did you come by this piece?
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Pillar of the Community
United States
2130 Posts |
Does the NGC 0 seems to be more oval on the inside or are my eyes going?
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Valued Member
United States
167 Posts |
Who wrote the die variety book on early dimes? Was it Valentine? I know Overton wrote the book on Bust Halves but I only have a few cheap early dimes and never got into it much. I've an 1835 in better shape than yours and a lower end 1831 and 1828 I think. Your coin looks good but you may want to check the die variety book to be sure. An edge pix may help. Please these were pre-steam age coins, struck by horse pulled dies or something and uneven strikes are not rare. If you're a guy who's in business for a while give them a 3 year return privilege for authenticity. That way the buyer can borrow the die variety book from the ANA library and check the coin themselves. |
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
10982 Posts |
There were at least two different die pairs for this date so yours could very well be genuine. I wouldn't grade it XF though. Probably VF30 details would be a fair, conservative grade because the obverse looks to have been cleaned. Regardless of that though, a coin of this age/value needs to be authenticated. Even a genuine or details slab is in order.
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Moderator
 United States
16679 Posts |
I was also going with mid-range VF/cleaned.
swcoin.ecrater.com
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Rest in Peace
United States
4849 Posts |
I was thinking genuine at first, but after looking at a few that sold on Heritage, they all match the star/bust location of the NGC example. And with the odd shape of the numerals I am somewhat suspect. If it is genuine, it will sell better in a slab and you won't have to worry about a potentially unhappy customer; so I would pull it off the bay and submit it to an ANACS or better TPG. |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
2130 Posts |
Quote:
There were at least two different die pairs for this date so yours could very well be genuine. I wouldn't grade it XF though. Probably VF30 details would be a fair, conservative grade because the obverse looks to have been cleaned. Regardless of that though, a coin of this age/value needs to be authenticated. Even a genuine or details slab is in order.  This needs authentication |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
3453 Posts |
I found an 1809 Dime PCGS 25 that realized $2,250 on teletrade in January of this year. The issues on the obverse are the same as stated above. The reverse arrows on your coin are farther away from the A than the PCGS 25 coin, are sharper at the tip and exhibit some detail on the arrow closest to the eagle's talon.
Considering that at least 2 dies have been mentioned, I would get that puppy certified and then have fun selling. If genuine, yours is definitely less circulated than the PCGS 25 I found!
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Pillar of the Community
3660 Posts |
The placement relationships of stars and letters in most cases would be irrelevant to authenticity, (due to variable characteristics of individual dies)...... this is not the case here though..... despite whoever said there were more than one die pair, the fact is that there was only one die pair used for the 1809 dime.... It is known as JR-1 (Jules Reiver), and your coin (unfortunately) was not made from that die pair (or by the US Mint for that matter).... it is indeed a counterfeit.... letters on the reverse are a dead giveaway. Does this look familiar? https://goccf.com/t/72135Edited by zeewool
03/04/2011 2:53 pm
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
10982 Posts |
That was my mistake if there was only one die marriage for this piece. I saw the JR-1 and assumed there was at least one other.
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Pillar of the Community
3660 Posts |
A perfectly logical assumption BH..... and most folks would come to the same conclusion, this is also the case with the 1815 Capped Bust Half...... only one die pair used, and it is O-101.
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Valued Member
United States
161 Posts |
weigh it, and study the edge reeding. most of the chinese fakes had the reeding added AFTER the coin was struck, and its never the correct gauge. this one kinda has that look. compare it to a known genuine dime of the era (if you have one) the reeding should be the same count as another dime of the era. if its not it is likely a fake. compare the weight to a known genuine in a similar condition, a digiscale works well for this.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
2540 Posts |
Also, take it out of the holder when taking pictures.
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New Member
United States
1 Posts |
This is a modern counterfeit without a doubt. It's been shown on two other forums besides this one. See if this looks familiar:
http://www.jinghuashei.com/html/product/1009032025567275.html
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Posted 03/03/2011 8:21 pm
