Need Some More Info On A 1910 D Penny Added Pic.

this is my 1943 copper I had it tested by a coin dealer and he sugested I send it for grading.

That's about what I'd expect the date to look like, at least in a smaller image. That's a tough look to create from an 8, for instance. If it isn't magnetic, I'd be seriously thinking of having professionally attributed. Try not to get your hopes up (yeah, right ), but if the rest of the coin looked that good I'd probably give it a shot. The chance of it being real is minuscule, but you won't be the first.

Now, here's the problem, and I doubt you've thought about it: TPG fees are scaled by the value of the coin. If your coin is actually real, its' value is almost certainly into 6 figures. That means risking $100 (ANACS), $250 (NGC) or $250 + 1% of the coin's actual value (PCGS) on the cost of grading. And how, exactly, will you ship and ensure a coin which could fetch $250,000 at auction?

If you're serious about this, your best bet might be to find a show within commuting distance at which one or the other of the TPG's will be attending in person. Generally, if one's there, all three are.

Edited to add: There's another way, but only if your plan is to liquidate.

the zero is way to big

I am with the others on the 10 D being a 18 D with Damage/Wear to the 8.
As for the 1943, Any coin with that much value and ease of faking, should be sent to a TPG or taken to a major show for authentication. Without Authentication its more than likely considered Fake. Even if its real

If he has, or wishes to, it's not going to happen here. That's not how Coin Community works. And it wouldn't be evidentiary either way.

Ssuper. I collect low end coins.The reason I said that was to see if he had tried to sell it at a dealer and what the dealer may have said.

Im with you WheatBackPenny :) Got a feeling it didnt end well...