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How I Test For Silver Ag .925 - This May Help You

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jerseyben's Avatar
United States
1211 Posts
 Posted 11/08/2012  1:37 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add jerseyben to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Why bother scratching it on the stone if you are just going to cut into it? Why not do the magnet test first?
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nohope587's Avatar
United States
5953 Posts
 Posted 11/08/2012  2:58 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add nohope587 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Magnet test is usually the first one. I believe the original posts intent was to show you that it is possible for an item to pass the scratch test and still be not what it claims. Thick enough plating will fool a scratch test.
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mds308's Avatar
United States
1721 Posts
 Posted 11/08/2012  3:49 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add mds308 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply

Quote:
Why bother scratching it on the stone if you are just going to cut into it? Why not do the magnet test first?


jerseyben,

That's exactly what I said in the post. I explained that I would start with the magnet but for the post I started with the scratch test. I just wanted to show the different techniques. If I started with the magnet, the article would have been over before it started.
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SA4H's Avatar
United States
2764 Posts
 Posted 11/09/2012  10:53 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add SA4H to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
With such magnet like this be sufficient?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Strong-Roun...em27caec099b

I understand that larger magnet would be stronger and better, I am just not sure at what size would do the job. Thank you for all the insight.
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mdpmedia's Avatar
United States
3546 Posts
 Posted 11/09/2012  11:18 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add mdpmedia to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply

Quote:
With such magnet like this be sufficient?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Strong-Roun...em27caec099b


Yeah, that'll work fine but I personally like to break apart old discarded computers to extract the integrated rare earth magnets.

This method might save you $ 10 but could also waste your time if you are not familiar with the process.

fyi,
mdpmedia



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mds308's Avatar
United States
1721 Posts
 Posted 11/10/2012  08:46 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add mds308 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
The magnet pictured in my thread is about 50 percent smaller in real life. If you place this magnet on a flat piece of steel, it is very difficult to remove. I also have a car mechanics magnet on the end of a telescoping wand. This one is strong too. The magnets response can be very subtle. The clasp on a chain will have a steel spring so you need to avoid it. Sometimes I'll hang the chain over the side of a counter and bring the magnet in close to the chain. If the chain makes any attempt to draw closer to the magnet, I do not buy the chain (gold or silver).
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jerseyben's Avatar
United States
1211 Posts
 Posted 11/10/2012  10:36 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add jerseyben to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
mds: Understood about the magnet and thank you for the reply.

I still do not understand why you would do a scratch test for sterling if you are just going to cut into it?
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nohope587's Avatar
United States
5953 Posts
 Posted 11/10/2012  11:10 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add nohope587 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
If it fails the scratch test then there is no need to cut into the item. and at least it remains relatively intact.
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mdpmedia's Avatar
United States
3546 Posts
 Posted 11/12/2012  04:23 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add mdpmedia to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Hello,

Here is a dilemma that I sometimes encounter.

Let's assume a seller has an ancient (late 1800s) large ½ gallon nine inch tall ‘supposed' sterling silver coffee server container with a matching 18' diameter ‘supposed' sterling silver serving tray.

The seller indicates that these two items came from his grandmother when she moved from Poland over a 100 years ago. However, neither piece has any written or stamped designation of sterling silver content.

The 14k acid tests have been performed in a couple of places by drilling down 2 - 3 mm in depth and the results indicated .925 (sterling silver); the creamy white after effect appeared without the appearance of the plating indicators of green and/or black colors.

I have also heard from others that sometimes even after obtaining positive test results from both acid testing and magnet tests, a larger ‘supposed' sterling silver serving tray or coffee pot would only contain less than 20% silver after melting it down via an assay procedure etc.

It appears that in the above scenario only the two areas that the buyer checked were sterling but the majority of the pieces were silver plated.

What additional reasonably economical tests or procedures besides what has already been described in the above paragraphs can a buyer perform before purchasing an item to ensure he/she does not get taken to the cleaners?

Keep in mind that the seller wishes to avoid having unsightly cuts or acid stains from the testing done by the buyer on these items so the items can still be sold as undamaged and antique silver plated pieces if the tests do not indicate sterling silver etc.

I am aware of X-ray fluorescence for determining silver content but the cost and availability of these machines are respectively astronomical and scarce.

Any help resolving this problem would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
mdpmedia
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mds308's Avatar
United States
1721 Posts
 Posted 11/12/2012  2:26 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add mds308 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I'm not sure I can be of help but you stated that you used 14K acid on silver when I use 18K acid for the silver test.

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mdpmedia's Avatar
United States
3546 Posts
 Posted 12/23/2012  11:19 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add mdpmedia to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Hello,

The following URL visually addressing the differences between .925 and .800 Ag and the related testing methods should be of interest to the viewers of this thread:

https://goccf.com/t/136926

The devil is in the details of realizing slight color variations...

fyi,
mdpmedia



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Lostwords's Avatar
Canada
1528 Posts
 Posted 12/24/2012  11:34 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Lostwords to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Very interesting tutorial. Thanks
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Jimjumper's Avatar
United States
331 Posts
 Posted 12/24/2012  1:33 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Jimjumper to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I invited our local pawn shop owner to one of our coin club meetings and he demonstrated the testing techniques used in person. He also talked about the pawn business and it was a really informative presentation.
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Ed_B's Avatar
United States
4008 Posts
 Posted 12/24/2012  5:47 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Ed_B to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Yes, the magnet test is a good one for starters because it will detect iron, nickel, and cobalt, all of which are magnetic. Unfortunately, some grades of stainless steel with high chromium content are not magnetic, so watch out for them.

Not mentioned in this thread is that a density test is also a good one that is accurate and non-destructive. A graduated cylinder can often be used to hold water. The item in question can then be immersed in the water via hanging it on a fine wire. The difference between water levels between no and full immersion is the volume of the article. Knowing its weight and volume allows you to calculate its density. Silver will be 10.49 grams/cc. This will work on most items, although it cannot differentiate between gold and tungsten. For that, an ultrasonic meter is needed that measures the speed of the ultrasonic sound as it passes through the metal.

There is a lot of science in this kind of testing but also some art too. Experience is the real key in much of this testing. It is helpful to have some items that you KNOW are pure silver, sterling silver, gold, or whatever you are measuring for to use as standards.


Quote:
‘ALL chemical reactions will greatly accelerate to their end point when exposed to higher temperatures.'

Indeed so. In physical chemistry, this is referred to as "chemical activity", usually symbolized with a lower case "a". As a general rule of thumb, chemical activity doubles for approximately every 10 degree C rise in temperature.
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