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Replies: 98 / Views: 22,743 |
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Valued Member
United States
81 Posts |
I just purchased the Helicon Focus package and I am starting to learn the software. What method are you using to take the multiple pictures without moving the coin. I have purchased Rays set up and am manually turning a micrometer tuning fine tuner. Are you using an automatic fine tuner?. Any help would be appreciated and TYIA. We
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Pillar of the Community
Canada
2784 Posts |
helicon. myself I use Zerene. my gear is not solid enough to do stacking right now. plus I am having problems with vibration. once you get up and running. Ray puts together a great package. once you learn how to use this gear. you will have a great setup. I will help you any way I can. once my steel comes in from the USA. I will show you my set up. I am just about done photographing vertical. I am getting ready to do my work on coins from a horizontal mount.
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Pillar of the Community
Canada
2784 Posts |
Gluggo here is a Canadian fifty cent coin. look at the jewels on the crown. these are not attached plus doubled. this is a single photo. using that fine focus er. stacked this would be in perfect focus. Gluggo once you get use to stacking. I will show you the easy way to identify Mechanical Doubling. using your camera and stacking unit. have a great one here is an image at 20X this is true 20X. 
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Valued Member
United States
81 Posts |
Thank you rocky here is a set up of the fine tune platform I am using. I have to carefully turn it with one hand while keeping it from moving while I start taking multiple shots. It can be done but still a bit nerve racking as I have to be stealthy and I am sure I am ever so minutly moving the pictures. Is there a way to make this automated or do they make a automated platform? TYIA 
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
4038 Posts |
@Gluggo...why do you have to hold the platform to keep it from moving? When I shipped to you I put double-stick tape on the bottom. You can move it around and til you find just the right placement, then stick it down there. It stays in place very nicely, but still allows you to move it later if needed.
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Moderator
 Canada
10458 Posts |
I am following this thread with interest, as I use microphotography with my research (mineral grains of sand size, ranging from 0.25 to 2.00 mm), and am a big fan of image stacking. Right now, I contract out a photographer to do this work for me, with about 40-60 images stacked on a mineral grain, such as this pyrope (garnet). I am always in awe of those whom are capable of doing stuff like this. 
"Discovery follows discovery, each both raising and answering questions, each ending a long search, and each providing the new instruments for a new search." -- J. Robert OppenheimerContent of this post is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial 3.0 Unported License. See: http://creativecommons.org/licenses...0/deed.en_USMy eBay store
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Valued Member
United States
81 Posts |
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
4038 Posts |
SPP-Ottawa...very nice sand grain image! Do you know what type of equipment and methods your contract photographer uses for this work?
Gluggo...hah! no worries, I guess I never told you about the tape. It will definitely help you to keep things from moving around. What before was hopeless, is now awesome!
Contact me for photographic equipment or visit my home page at: http://macrocoins.com
Edited by rmpsrpms 06/08/2020 6:18 pm
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Pillar of the Community
Canada
2784 Posts |
Gluggo I was checking some Canadian loonies. I thought I would share this with you. what would you call this. question see the look of the beak. its no longer connected to the loon. I can check coins in seconds. 
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Valued Member
United States
81 Posts |
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Pillar of the Community
Canada
2784 Posts |
Gluggo this is a loon a bird. that Canada uses to represent the Canadian 1 dollar coin. here is a full image of a loonie. I will show you what that is in the first photo. that coin is in plastic. see you can shoot right through the plastic. 
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Pillar of the Community
Canada
2784 Posts |
Gluggo here is a single photo of the designer initials. struck on to a Jefferson nickle. look at the S this die is failing. see the crack left behind from the strike. only part of the S is on the surface of the coin. the mag I used would be about 12X  
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Valued Member
United States
81 Posts |
You have excellent eyes Rocky. I am a welding inspector by trade cracks are my enemy in our field. Great catch. So my question is we're you able to see the crack just by looking at the coin? Or did you find it while under the scope? I have a few coins with cracks but they are very obvious. A few that go from edge to edge. I don't think I ever paid more for a coin with a obvious crack some were done during the production of the coin or so I was told. I was just wonder and thank you for taking the time to share and school me. Appreciated!
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Valued Member
 United States
70 Posts |
Hello- I'm the original poster of this thread. I was trying to get into extreme macro coin photography last spring and posted subsequently several times posting substandard results, seeking information. Everyone here was very eager to help out, but I wasn't able to get good results. Eventually I lost interest in trying. Over the weekend I saw Ray's new technique posted at the PCGS Forums website and became inspired to try again. What I found is that neither microscope objectives I'm using ($50 non-branded from China) and the 35mm enlarger lens (Astro- cheap) allow me to focus properly. Here's what I'm using:  Canon 60 D body in Manual mode tethered to a laptop  Camera body mounted to a copy stand  Bellows attached to the camera  Microscope objective (or enlarger lens) attached to the bellows  Coin rests on a XYZ Linear Stage Platform (fine focus)  Using the fine focus I can see it's working fine. I can see the focal plane changing, and areas moving in and out of "focus". But in the shot, nothing is in sharp focus:  I shot a series of photos with tiny focal plane changes intending to stack the images. As you can see in the posted example NOTHING is in sharp focus, even though some part of the image was intended to be. Could it be that the cheap objective is the problem; it doesn't really allow for sharp focus no matter what I do? Am I potentially doing something else wrong? I'm shooting at 1/60 sec. with dual Jansco lamps. The platform is well stabilized. HELP! I'm inspired again.
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
4038 Posts |
When you look at the the coin in Live View and critically focus on an area, does it appear sharply focused? And if you snap the shot and look at that same area, does the image match what you saw in Live View?
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Replies: 98 / Views: 22,743 |