Quote: The proposed bill would halt production of cents not demonitize them. There will be plenty of cents in circulation for a long time to come.
The way it works now is that the FED sends pennies to the banks that give them to the stores who use them to make change for the customers who toss them in the trash. If no one does anything differently we'll be out of pennies in almost no time.
Some people might hoard pennies instead meaning they'll be gone even sooner.
Within two months after production ends we'll start seeing signs saying transactions will be rounded. This will create lower demand.
The drawdown will be highly variable from place to place. I would expect that in short order the FED might start destroying pennies to retrieve the copper and zinc.
The FED will eventually gather up the pennies and melt whatever comes back. The longer they take to start the process the fewer that will come back. They'll be lucky to get 20% of the coins in circulation which is 5% of the mintage. Zinc will be returned more than the copper so they'll only get about about a couple billion coppers. One the pipeline to the refiners is filled they'll lift the ban on melting pennies.
Don't expect to get rich hording pennies because they will not be rare after the melting is done. Countless billions will still exist. These coins will be in abysmal condition and they'll get worse every year because of poor storage. Don't do it right after you eat but look at a handful of pennies and you'll see corrosion, spotting, culls, damage. and wear. Virtually every coin is awful and some years every coin is spotted before it even left the mint. I've seen a few nice coins in '24.
Even if millions of people wanted to make sets of the old cents from circulation there would be ample supply of corroded ugly coins.
I doubt many people are searching for quality in the later sets so they should be typical which extremely good quality. I prefer hand selecting sets but this is less necessary in the later sets unless you are very picky. Earlier sets are much less picked over than people imagine because most picked over sets are destroyed and replaced by typical sets. But the old sets are going to be hazed for sure in some dates and even the best can be tarnished.
Don't panic if this is all news to you. Across the board nearly 75% of the coins can be restored to pristine condition. There are a few specific coins that are highly problematical but for the main part the coins can be restored. The lightly hazed coin are much better so just don't let them sit too long in the packaging.
It's impossible to tell from pricing what APMEX's stock looks like but they are selling the easy to find '72 for more than the less easy to find '71 that is always tarnished. This suggests to me that they cull out very few sets so they'll all be typical. The '72 sets will have a few coins that are tarnished lightly and the '71 will have several or all of the coins tarnished and some that can't be saved.
I do not recommend collecting or saving mint sets. I saved the nicest 20 sets I ever ran across and when I opened my safety deposit boxes several years ago they were a fright. Fortunately I had saved some nice Gems out of the packaging and even soaked them way back in the '70's and they are all still pristine. The problem, I believe, is partly contaminants left on them and mostly PVC in the packaging. If the packaging is kept very dry and they are stored vertically they seem to do better but even the best are hazing.
No matter who you buy mint sets from it will depend largely on the date. '84 mint sets will be OK except for the pennies. '90 sets will be pristine and 1968 sets will be badly hazed. '68 to '71 and '74 to '78 will be the worst. I believe some sellers pull out the very bad ones but they can't pull out all the bad ones.
Proof sets are better but many of these have light haze on them.
The hazing and tarnish can be removed from most mint set coins except some dates are worse. '68(P) cents usually can't be restored by soaking in acetone. '70 dimes are tougher. Even some important coins like the '76-P type I ike often can't be restored. A lot of these are so ugly it's no great loss.
For the main part these sets need to be dismantled for proper stabilizing and storage but it's not happening. In ten years even some of the more stable sets like the 1989 are going to be skunked.
Nice AU ikes are not that easy. The ones that used to come from the FED were chewed up AU's with more chewed up XF's and VF's than AU.
I haven't looked since the mid-'90's but those coins were not very nice. The large size of the coins assures they get scratched in every little collision. Most of the ones I still see out there are not very nice.
It's hard to tell from your photos. This date comes highly lustrous especially in the mint set as you probably know and this can mimic PL. I actually like your coin much better than the PCGS coin because it lacks the chicken scratching. The mark on the cheek will preclude a grade over MS-66 though.
I would rate nearly 1% of the '72-D quarters in the mint set as "PL" but the services use a far higher standard for some reason.
Quote: I want the best I can afford MS65 or better but online usually just lists coins as BU or Choice BU and use a stock photo so I don't know what I'm actually getting.
Such coins will be run of the mill at best usually. They'll just be taken out of a roll but that roll will almost never any real Gems in it. In some cases it will even have sliders and AU-55. Expect MS-63 in most cases.
There are dealers who offer Gems but they're at much higher prices. Don't assume all these coins are good deals. Collectors are advised to sell a coin from time to time to learn what coins are really worth. You don't want to assemble a $1000 collection and then find out the market value is far lower.
It's far harder to sell moderns for fair value because most dealers only offer face value or bullion value for moderns. You need to sell them to a modern dealer to find what they are worth.
Moderns are tough and they get no respect. This might not change even after they fix the Redbook.
I think a lot of the problem with moderns is that the price guides are so very wrong. The Redbook and Greysheet list prices that are just stupid low. If you go out to buy most of these coins you'll find they often can't be had at what are supposed to be retail prices. Sure, you can find a lot of MS-60 or MS-63 coins but you can't find something like a nice attractive '82-P quarter at anything like Redbook pricing.
I'm told next year all these problems will be fixed and then all the price guides will probably fall in line. In the meantime just pay up for the real market or wait until next year. Even BU coins can be much higher than what is reported. There are cases where wholesale BU is actually higher than the MS-65 retail pricing!
But shop around a little and don't overpay. The trick to modern collecting is to look at as many coins as you can. Don't just send away for something. You might get what you pay for but the odds are against you.
Quote: Many collectors have been purchasing mint sets just for breaking opened to fill holes in albums for decades. Sure beats buying individual coins.
This is very true. Incredibly enough though, many collectors thought it was wrong to bust up mint sets so they'd order singles for lots more money from sellers who busted them out of mint sets because mint sets are the only source for many of the coins made since 1965. It was so bad 4 years ago that the wholesale prices of the 1975 set was lower than face value but the wholesale price of the coins in it was more than double face value!
Now days almost all the sets are gone but there's still so little demand they can be found anywhere. Don't worry that all the coins are tarnished in some dates because all the sets are this way and most of the coins are fine after soaking in acetone. It's easy enough to do. Just buy the acetone in a gallon jug at any hardware and cover the container because it's very volatile and will evaporate quickly. It's also very inflammable so keep away from ignition sources. Rinse the coins when you take them out and pat gently with a plush towel.
To select mint sets you have to push the coin a little under the plastic so you can tell the marking on the plastic from the marking on the coin. It's common now days that the plastic is scratched up. If you can't find a Gem you'll rarely have to look at more than a few sets to find a nice chBU. The toughest is the Philly Ike in the '75 set (type I). Most of these are ugly and a nice choice coin appears barely 5% of the time. Gems were tough in 1975. This coin will usually be tarnished but about three in four can be restored.
Mint set coins are usually better struck by dies in newer condition. For the clad coins there is often almost no alternative because the rolls weren't saved in most cases.
Some dates almost always have haze or tarnish; '68-'71, '75-'80. This will usually come off if you soak the coins in acetone for a few days. Pennies are more problematical and often can't be saved. The '68 is the worst.
On average about 2% of mint set coins are nice Gems but there is a lot of variation with specific issues. '79 cents are tough but '72-D are easy.
Quote: Here are other pics from a different camera. At PCGS, I didn't see any PL's for this year/mint mark. If they come across one, would they give that designation?
I doubt it. They are very stingy with the designation so almost no coin qualifies. The new picture makes me pretty sure it's what I call PL however it is not as dramatically PL as others I've seen. On the bright side though it is extremely clean for a '76-D so could get a high grade and maybe a bump for the luster and PL.
It's not quite my cup of tea but by any standard it's one of the finest for the date. It's at least within one grade of being pop top but I doubt it's really a "money coin" unless it gets PL.