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Slider23's Last 20 Posts
Peace Dollar Question
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Slider23
Pillar of the Community
United States
3915 Posts |
Posted 06/03/2023 10:52 pm
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The 1921 reverse die was only used for that year. Below are some of the 1921 reverse differences from the later designs:
1) Higher relief 2) Less curved eagle's beak 3) Earlier division of branch at eagle's feet 4) Eagles right ankle thinner 5) Eagle's left ankle showing 6) Mountain ranges different 7) Four rays below the one 8) Eight rays below eagle's tail vs six. 9) Twenty one rays below eagle's wing vs 19 1/2.
The 4 ray 1935 S reverse uses the same design that was used from 1922 to 1935P and some 1935 S. The 1935 S 4 ray changes are as follows: 1) Added forth ray below the one 2) Added seventh ray below eagle's tail.
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| Forum: US Classic and Colonial Coins |
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Counterfeit Gold Coins In NGC Slabs
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Slider23
Pillar of the Community
United States
3915 Posts |
Posted 05/30/2023 08:11 am
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Quote: I don't know the source of that quote, but why on earth would a branch mint basin, machine, and harden dies on its own?
Wayne Miller, wrote "The Morgan And Peace Dollar Text Book" and the quote is from the book. Miller acknowledges that a lot of the information in the book about the minting process came from Van Allen.
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| Forum: US Classic and Colonial Coins |
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Counterfeit Gold Coins In NGC Slabs
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Slider23
Pillar of the Community
United States
3915 Posts |
Posted 05/29/2023 11:55 pm
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Wayne Miller writes about the Morgan annealing process, "each mint basined, machined and hardened its own dies. If the die was not hardened sufficiently through annealing, the die surface would tend to sink at the moment of striking due to the tremendous force involved".
If in fact, Philadelphia put in all dates and mint marks by hand before shipping there was terrible quality control with mispositioned dates, mispositioned mint marks, double dates, double mint marks, overdates, different sizes on mint marks. |
| Forum: US Classic and Colonial Coins |
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Counterfeit Gold Coins In NGC Slabs
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Slider23
Pillar of the Community
United States
3915 Posts |
Posted 05/29/2023 1:36 pm
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Van Allen writes, " In making the Morgan working dies, the date digits and the mint mark for dies to be used at the branch mints were punched in by hand before the dies were polished and hardened". It is my understanding that the local branch punched in the date and mint mark polished the dies and hardened them. |
| Forum: US Classic and Colonial Coins |
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Counterfeit Gold Coins In NGC Slabs
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Slider23
Pillar of the Community
United States
3915 Posts |
Posted 05/29/2023 10:10 am
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Quote: The photos are so bad that it is impossible to understand that the coin was replaced.
On Morgan's the hubs were made in Philadelphia and working dies were sent to the local mint to put in the date and mint mark.
The counterfeiters can have a similar problem as they are often working with one hub and changing mint marks and dates. On Morgan's when trying to detect counterfeits, a good place to start is the date and mint mark.
On the 1879 CC above look at the position of the CC on the fake and genuine example and the CC position is clearly different. The counterfeiters to save money used the same reverse CC die on a number of different dates. |
| Forum: US Classic and Colonial Coins |
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Counterfeit Gold Coins In NGC Slabs
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Slider23
Pillar of the Community
United States
3915 Posts |
Posted 05/27/2023 10:12 am
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Fake slabs have been around for awhile, but recently the fakes slabs have been growing in the market place. PCGS has been the main target by the Chinese counterfeiters because because most of their holder coins do not have photos on the cert lookup. The new collector can protect themselves from counterfeits by buying from a reputable dealer, and buying coins that have photos to compare on the cert lookup. Unfortunately, the counterfeit coins and counterfeit plastic are getting better, and the counterfeit slabs enable the counterfeiter to sell their coins for more money. PCGS and NGC have contributed to their slabs being counterfeited by not posting high quality photos of coins on the cert lookup. |
| Forum: US Classic and Colonial Coins |
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1914 D $20 Double Eagle You Vs NGC
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Slider23
Pillar of the Community
United States
3915 Posts |
Posted 05/15/2023 10:12 am
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I pick up the coin at GC a couple of weeks ago. The holder is a no line NGC. The coin has nice luster and in hand looks MS64. I wished all my MS63's looked this good. Thanks for the grades and most of you were spot on the NGC grade.
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| Forum: US Classic and Colonial Coin Grading |
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1875 Trade Dollar You Vs ANACS
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Slider23
Pillar of the Community
United States
3915 Posts |
Posted 05/13/2023 8:18 pm
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After looking at the PCGS membership, True View photo, shipping, grading fees, and 1% crossover fees, and CAC has not accepted any regular submissions since Sept or 2022. The coin is going to stay in the ANACS holder. If the eBay seller would of had better photos, the coin would have cost at least another 4 or 5 hundred.
If I did not get the AU50 ANACS, there was a NGC XF 40 1875 at Heritage that ends in three days, so I will be curious what the NGC coin hammers. My guess it will be in the same price range as my ANACS. |
| Forum: US Classic and Colonial Coin Grading |
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PCGS Bulk Submission
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Slider23
Pillar of the Community
United States
3915 Posts |
Posted 05/12/2023 3:20 pm
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My recommendation would be to post some photos in the grading forum to get idea of grades. One coin per thread on grading forum. Open an eBay store as it will reduce your selling cost. A PCGS MS 63 is going to sell for about $78 dollars on eBay and you will make a couple of dollars more than selling raw to a dealer. On coins that do not make the MS63 grade, you can sell raw on eBay and you will make a little more than selling to a dealer. The raw MS are going to be in the $60 range on eBay. |
| Forum: US Classic and Colonial Coin Grading |
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PCGS Bulk Submission
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Slider23
Pillar of the Community
United States
3915 Posts |
Posted 05/12/2023 11:58 am
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You need to provide the coin type that you will be submitting. Price guides are often not a good way to value the actual selling price of coins. You can get a better expected selling price by using past realized sold prices. What is the lowest grade that you can get a better return than selling them to the LCS? How are your grading skills? Once the coins are graded, where are you going to sell them? |
| Forum: US Classic and Colonial Coin Grading |
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1875 Trade Dollar You Vs ANACS
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Slider23
Pillar of the Community
United States
3915 Posts |
Posted 05/12/2023 12:22 am
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Quote: Just so that I can understand, am I correct to assume that the type 1 obverse paired with a type 2 reverse is genuine for the 1875 coins? So it would be an obvious fake if the obverse was a type 2. Would it also be an obvious fake if the reverse were a type 1 on the 1875 coins? Thanks for enlightening me!
The type 1 obverse paired with a type 2 reverse is a die pair that was used on the 1875 trade dollars.
No known 1875 obverse type 2 exists, so a 1875 with a type 2 obverse would be a counterfeit. The 1875 reverse can be a type 1 or 2.
There is no known trade dollar for any date that has a type 2 obverse and a type 1 reverse, so this combination would be a counterfeit.
There is a 1876 proof that has a type 2 hand (4 fingers) and a type 1 ribbon on the obverse. The coin has a type 2 reverse.
Knowing the correct type 1 and type 2 die pairs is a good start on detecting counterfeit trade dollars. The counterfeits are inconsistence with the eagle's neck feathers. The other area that the Trade Dollar counterfeits are weak is the denticles. |
| Forum: US Classic and Colonial Coin Grading |
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1875 Trade Dollar You Vs ANACS
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Slider23
Pillar of the Community
United States
3915 Posts |
Posted 05/11/2023 6:26 pm
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Quote: I have notes here that say the type 2 reverse is counterfeit on 1873 and 1874 but I don't have any notes for 1875.
The type 2 was not used on obverse for the 1875, 1875 S and 1875 CC. The type 2 was used on the reverse the 75, 75 S and 75CC. |
| Forum: US Classic and Colonial Coin Grading |
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