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HGK3's Last 20 Posts
| 1909-S Indian Cent . Authentic? Or Not?
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HGK3
Valued Member
United States
472 Posts |
 Posted 05/29/2023 5:01 pm
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My impression is that the coin is authentic, but the mint mark was added.
The wood grain texture of the metal is difficult to fake, but that shadowy indentation all around the MM looks too much like a later addition from a hand held punch rather than from the original die. |
| | Forum: US Classic and Colonial Coins |
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| 1929 Argentina 20 Centavos Counter Brockage? Help!
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HGK3
Valued Member
United States
472 Posts |
Posted 05/25/2023 12:15 pm
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A tilted die clash is not something I had considered because the depth of the clash marks is so great. I have never seen clash marks this deep before, but it makes more sense that they would be that deep if the clashing die was tilted and with the devices struck over them.
Thanks Mike for the generous donation of your time.
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| | Forum: World Variety and Error Coins |
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| 1970 P UC Mint Set, D Mint Mark! What Is This?
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HGK3
Valued Member
United States
472 Posts |
Posted 05/25/2023 12:01 pm
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I agree that better photos would help, including a photo of the entire set, but from what I can see the packaging looks correct for a 1970 Mint Set.
What I think the OP is pointing out is that the color band of blue was used for Philadelphia sets, yet the WQ bears a D mint mark, which should be in a red banded set.
Further, although better photos would help here as well, the JN appears to have an S mint mark.
Here's a link showing the packaging styles over the years.
https://mintsetguide.com/image-gallery/
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| | Forum: US Modern Variety and Error Coins |
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| 1929 Argentina 20 Centavos Counter Brockage? Help!
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HGK3
Valued Member
United States
472 Posts |
Posted 05/15/2023 4:25 pm
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First, I know this is not the correct forum for a 1929 20 Centavos coin from Argentina. Since there are likely to be more experienced eyes in this forum than others I thought I'd try here first. If the mods want to move the post I understand.
I'm not sure exactly what I'm seeing on this coin as it appears to have a little bit of everything. On the obverse I am seeing very clear strong doubling on Republica that diminishes as it goes towards the right.
By the time we get to the end of Argentina it looks almost like push doubling.
The date shows distortion similar to push doubling as well, but the 9's, especially the second one, appear to be doubled through non mechanical means.
There is very clear but faint doubling on the neck, chin and nose of the profile (not easily visible in the photos)
The Stars at the bottom looked almost smashed, rather than pushed or doubled on the die.
On the reverse, the wreath elements on the right hand side towards the rim show clear doubling, as does C, O & S of Centavos.
But it's the lower right edge that has me confused. There appears to be a clear brockage of the obverse Argentina running from K4 to K6, but it's under the correct wreath device, which appears to have been struck over top of it.
Is there such a thing as a double struck brockage? I read the error ref page on brockages and found a few similar descriptions, but nothing in the photos that looks like this.
Any diagnostic clues would be welcome.
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| | Forum: World Variety and Error Coins |
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| 1943-P Jefferson War Nickel Struck On Steel Cent Planchet
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HGK3
Valued Member
United States
472 Posts |
Posted 05/06/2023 12:47 am
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I'm not saying I agree with Sil or that I even have any opinion on how the coin was created, but I think (and please correct me if I'm misstating your argument ) what he's trying to say is that because Nickels involved precious metal in 1943 they would have been made with different presses from cents and on a different floor (not sure how we get that from the charts provided, but . . .)
Since they were struck on different presses and on different floors and since precious metal surveillance/security was tight the easiest way to get a silver planchet into the area where the cent dies were kept (cue the music from the vault scene in Ocean's 11) would have been at night when the mechanical staff had much freer access to move around and much less scrutiny and supervision.
Q.E.D - This has to be an intentionally incorrect planchet error.
No guarantees, express or implied, as to the accuracy of my translation because, well . . .
(Please direct all flaming responses to the source and leave the translator out of your line of fire!)
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| | Forum: US Modern Variety and Error Coins |
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| 1952 D Wheat Penny Damage?
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HGK3
Valued Member
United States
472 Posts |
Posted 04/25/2023 12:41 pm
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Not a razor blade.
I have two just like this and I think they were trapped in a washing machine in between the agitator and the bottom of the drum.
Google "washing machine cent" for some similar examples.
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| | Forum: US Modern Variety and Error Coins |
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| 1964 D Washington Quarter Struck Through Or PMD?
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HGK3
Valued Member
United States
472 Posts |
Posted 04/24/2023 1:08 pm
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I tend to agree with Cujohn that a defective planchet is more likely.
The area on the reverse at the rim looks to me as if it's tilting downward slightly, suggestive of not being enough metal or force of strike to cause the metal to flow and form the R.
Also, the area inside the obverse "divot" appears unevenly shaped, particularly on the side by the I. If struck through or with something I would expect more uniformity in contour of the bottom of the divot.
What I would really like to see is a close up of the area of the obverse rim around the date. If the planchet was missing part of it's edge when it went through the upset mill it might produce some Blakesley effect in that area. I think I can see a little in the area of the 96 but would like a closeup to be sure. |
| | Forum: US Modern Variety and Error Coins |
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| 1946 S LWC W/Mmv-006 (Scarce)
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HGK3
Valued Member
United States
472 Posts |
Posted 04/18/2023 2:39 pm
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I've always understood the 1946 S mintmark to show up in one of three styles:
MMS-004 which has a straight serif with a trumpet tail
MMS-007 which is a sans serif version
and
MMS-006 which normally has the trumpet tail on the lower left and the ball serif on the upper right.
However, I've also always understood that the MMS-006 only shows up in 1946 as an Inverted Mint Mark. In other words, every 1946 S with MMS-006 will show the ball serif in the lower left and the trumpet tail in the upper right (Inverted).
Variety Vista's listing for MMS is confusing because it shows a photo of the ball and serif version of the MM, but that is because it's showing us how the non-inverted MM appears on the 1944 and 1945 cents.
When that page lists 1946 it's with the term Inverted as a hyperlink next to it that if you click on will show you only the inverted MM for 1946.
I suspect what you have is an MMS-004 that has undergone some circulation flattening to make the serif look fatter and more ball like. |
| | Forum: US Modern Variety and Error Coins |
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| Minting Variation Question
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HGK3
Valued Member
United States
472 Posts |
Posted 04/16/2023 12:18 pm
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That's a broad question, so a very broad answer would be yes, it's possible. As a die deteriorates the shape of the devices can alter.
A coin produced at the end of a die's production life can sometimes look significantly different from a coin produced at the beginning of a die's production life.
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| | Forum: US Modern Variety and Error Coins |
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| Need Help On 1968 D LMC, Look Like It's Doubled Rim Obverse And Reverse
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HGK3
Valued Member
United States
472 Posts |
Posted 04/13/2023 3:17 pm
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The upset mill puts a rim on the coin before it's struck, and there's a rim on the die as part of the design, so when a planchet is struck with a misaligned die that second die based rim shows up, misaligned with the already present rim, which is what you're seeing here, rather than a rim fin.
On the reverse at K9 you can see the effects of the misalignment as well.
Since the reverse shows a weaker second rim you may also have a slightly tilted die.
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| | Forum: US Modern Variety and Error Coins |
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| Error Coin From My Grandfather, Who Worked At The Mint
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HGK3
Valued Member
United States
472 Posts |
Posted 04/08/2023 2:56 pm
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Quote:
The creator of this 'coin' worked at the Hamilton Mint
Too much supposition this statement.
H. Alvin Sharpe was a noted artist in New Orleans and is credited with creating the Mardi Gras Coin.
While it's true that he worked for the Hamilton Mint for a time, it would have been strictly as an artist, not in the physical coin making part of the minting process.
In fact, unless I'm mistaken, there isn't anything to show the origin of the dies used, so assuming it's from Hamilton or that Sharpe had anything to do with the coin would be improper, at this time anyway.
Quote:
but as mentioned, no numismatic value.
This is almost certainly incorrect also. I don't know a lot about dubloon collecting, but a quick internet search shows it's an active area of exonumia.
http://www.ccdtclub.com/
https://www.mardigrasdoubloons.com/home
If the OP could ID the original dubloon who's dies were used that would go along way to establishing value, but I'd bet a healthy amount there's a Mardi Gras collector out there that would love to own something like this.
Not saying OP can retire on it should he decide to sell, just pointing out that altered coins are collected by all sorts of hobbyists so we shouldn't jump to conclusions.
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| | Forum: US Modern Variety and Error Coins |
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| Error Coin From My Grandfather, Who Worked At The Mint
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HGK3
Valued Member
United States
472 Posts |
Posted 04/08/2023 09:52 am
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I agree that this was overstruck at a mint of some kind, given that the images are all "positive" images, meaning dies were used and thus ruling out a vice job.
Since the LMC devices are affected but the TOL devices are not, the LMC devices were struck first.
I wonder if OP's grandfather worked at THE mint or a commercial mint. These mardi gras tokens started being made in the early 1960's and by 1974 would likely have been produced at several locations. Seems likely someone at a commercial mint would have slipped a cent into their presses, and frankly impossible to see how the TOL dies could have been used at a US mint facility.
As to value, Sharpe collectors, mardi gras collectors, and New Orleans collectors might all be interested in such an object. I don't think the value is extreme, but I do suspect there's a market for it.
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| | Forum: US Modern Variety and Error Coins |
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| HI First Time Post I Need An Opinion On This Example 1970 S Lg Dt DDO Not Sure On Sending Coins In
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HGK3
Valued Member
United States
472 Posts |
Posted 03/26/2023 12:37 pm
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Assuming the OP's attribution is correct, and ignoring the really unnecessary and harsh snark, as well as the screeds on the evils of grading companies, the OP's question is a reasonable one to ask.
It appears that variety lists for about $185 on PCGS at PR66, but jumps to $275 at PR67.
As others more expert than I have pointed out (Tropical Bats just recently, for example), these minute grading changes can affect the value of the coin substantially. As a result, spending the money to get the coin slabbed can boost the perceived/potential value substantially.
Also, as others have pointed out, selling a slabbed coin at that level is generally easier than selling a similar raw coin as higher end collectors (think registry sets) generally prefer slabbed coins. In my experience as both a seller and buyer of coins $275 for a slabbed coin will get a much better response than asking $275 for the same coin raw.
Of course, there's risk. If you spend the $50 dollars (approximately) to get the coin graded and it comes in lower than you hoped you have less gain to realize for the same cost outlay. That same coin at PR65 lists at $140, or half the value of the PR67.
The question of whether you're willing to take that risk is entirely subjective and really one that only you can answer.
On the other hand, if all you're really looking to do is preserve the coin, then buying an Air Tite or some other high end home slabbing system is probably just as good and won't cost more than about $2 - $3.
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| | Forum: US Modern Variety and Error Coins |
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| 1938 S LWC RPM-001, 002, 003 Question
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HGK3
Valued Member
United States
472 Posts |
Posted 03/24/2023 8:41 pm
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The TPG's generally charge a fee to grade the coins condition and then a second fee to attribute the variety.
Those are per coin charges.
Add to that the cost of mailing them to the TPG, the cost of return shipping and also a charge for insurance and it can easily equal a cost averaged out to $30 - $50 per coin. Clearly, the more coins you send in the lower your average cost will be because you're spreading the fixed costs over a larger number of coins.
Also, remember that not all varieties will be attributed by a TPG. PCGS, for example, will only attribute varieties that show up in the Cherrypickers Guide, so they will only attribute your 1938 S RPM's 1 & 2.
ANACS has a broader attributing policy, so you may want to check with them to see if they will note the RPM 3 on their label. |
| | Forum: US Modern Variety and Error Coins |
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| Should I Grade My: 2019 P American Memorial Park Mariana Islands DDO Quarter
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HGK3
Valued Member
United States
472 Posts |
Posted 03/19/2023 7:35 pm
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I think you are misunderstanding the difference between "grading" and "attributing".
You have to pay to have the overall condition of the coin graded and then a second fee to have your error or variety attributed.
Further, not every variety gets attributed. Most of them don't, as PCGS will only attribute varieties listed in the Cherry Pickers Guides, for instance.
I don't see this variety specifically listed on either the PCGS or NGC website, so they probably aren't attributing this variety at this time.
Overall, I see a lot a contacts marks on the obverse so you'll probably get low AU grade and no DDO designation (even though it looks like you have the DDO) on the slab for your $50 fee. |
| | Forum: US Modern Variety and Error Coins |
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| What Causes This On A Nickel? Different Years.
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HGK3
Valued Member
United States
472 Posts |
Posted 03/19/2023 6:32 pm
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Not sure where you got "random marks from circulation" out of my response and a don't know what you mean by "the reverse portion of the collar".
The vertical marks on the rim of the coins are from a worn collar, not from circulation. The collar is what holds the coin in place when the dies come together to strike the coin.
When the collar sustains wear, usually on it's top or bottom edges first due to ejection of the coin, that wear is transferred to a coin at striking in the same way reeds are transferred to a quarter or dime.
https://www.error-ref.com/collar-damage/
The link above will show you a much more severe example.
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| | Forum: US Modern Variety and Error Coins |
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| What Causes This On A Nickel? Different Years.
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HGK3
Valued Member
United States
472 Posts |
Posted 03/19/2023 1:27 pm
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The beveling along the top and bottom of each coin rim is normal. It's put on to help with seating and ejection in the striking chamber. It's also one of the first features to wear on a coin that's circulating so it's easy to miss.
The vertical lines on the edge of the rim are signs of a worn collar and are actually more common than many people think because we so rarely examine that part of cents and nickels. |
| | Forum: US Modern Variety and Error Coins |
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