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Replies: 21 / Views: 2,498 |
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Valued Member
 United States
158 Posts |
Thanks, all. I'll break her out later for a better look, and possibly some better photos. She's on loan until I make a decision whether or not to buy.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
2797 Posts |
Your photos are quite good for a "newbie".  You just need to diffuse that light a bit. When I attempt to grade Uncirculated coins (especially Morgans) I start from the top and work down. By this I mean a perfect strike on a perfect planchet that is retrieved off the press with cotton gloves and flawlessly preserved would be a 70. Of course all business strikes went down that chute and impacted their brethren, so the idea of an accurately graded MS-70 Morgan is a fantasy. The closest anyone has come is a MS-69. This coin has no visible flaws, a perfect strike and no contact marks. A minor mark will reduce it to a 68 or 67 and several will make it a 66. The more contact, the lower the grade. Your coin shows mint luster and a normal amount of contact marks. Most of these coins will be MS-63. With glaring marks in the most obvious places this will drop it further to 62 or 61. There also aren't many accurately graded Morgans in MS-60. These are usually awarded the AU-55/AU-58 grade.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1554 Posts |
I won't offer a grade but looks dipped a couple times... Good luck.
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Moderator
 United States
23522 Posts |
I would tend to disagree with those who question the coin's luster; in direct light, a truly lustrous coin demonstrates that dark/light affect in the fields. It's actually the dark areas which clue me in more about luster than the bright ones. A coin lacking luster will have less of this contrast. I agree with the grade put forth, but I don't think there's anything wrong with the luster.
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Valued Member
 United States
158 Posts |
Quote: I would tend to disagree with those who question the coin's luster; in direct light, a truly lustrous coin demonstrates that dark/light affect in the fields.
Thanks for the insight, SuperDave. I took a couple more photos of the coin after liberating from the holder, and the difference is rather stark. Granted, I don't have my copy stand or my LED lighting yet, so must make do with diffused overhead lighting for now. Discussion ?
Here's another look :

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Pillar of the Community
United States
3076 Posts |
Your PHOTO's are much better, now....  Gene
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Valued Member
344 Posts |
Really strong strike but there is a lot of chatter on the obverse and the reverse also has a small chattery spot on the east side.
MS61, possibly MS62 is they are being generous.
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Valued Member
 United States
158 Posts |
Quote: Your PHOTO's are much better, now....Gene
He he he.....thanks, Gene. One diffused flash from overhead through frosted acrylic, F8 for 0.10 second at 100 ISO. Canon DSLR on tripod with Tamron 90mm macro lens did the trick. A little post-processing in PhotoShop (cropping and sharpening) and VIOLA - mint luster reveals itself.
I really need to clean my sensor, though.....those pesky dust spots are annoying the you-know-what outta me.
Okay, so the photos are much better.......whaddaya think of the coin itself ?
Edited by CitizenPatriot 12/08/2011 08:42 am
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Moderator
 United States
23522 Posts |
Far better detail but now it looks dipped. 
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Pillar of the Community
United States
2797 Posts |
Quote: Far better detail but now it looks dipped.
There's not a large enough "devil emoticon" for that comment.  But the change in photos would lend itself to a further discussion on photo manipulation. This would be especially helpful for those who see a dazzling ebay image and then get buyer's remorse with the coin in-hand. 
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Valued Member
 United States
158 Posts |
I agree, SuperDave - it looks dipped, and it's going back - no sale.
As for photo manipulation, I try to keep mine to a minimum, preferring instead to "get it right" inside the camera whenever possible. Every digital photo from RAW files can benefit from a little judicious sharpening, and mine are no exception.
I've ordered my copy stand and Jansjo LED lights, so my photos should begin to show more improvement over the coming weeks. 
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1554 Posts |
On my computer your 1st photo was better for grading purposes and I could tell right away it was dipped and no more than AU...Good luck!
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Pillar of the Community
United States
3076 Posts |
I think your color is still off a mite, if its not been cleaned, I see your still shooting dead on at the coin and not over head, and in the tent,,that's why I'm referring to the color... it will be interesting to see how you do when you get your stand... 
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Moderator
 United States
23522 Posts |
Quote: I agree, SuperDave - it looks dipped, and it's going back - no sale. That was said in jest. If this coin has been dipped, it was done well enough so that it cannot be determined from photographs. Just like the overwhelming majority of coins which have been dipped. Done right, it's not possible to tell a coin has been dipped. It is purely the nature of diffuse lighting which makes it appear dipped. Diffuse lighting does not accurately represent luster. What it does, in fact, is present the classic appearance of an "overdipped" coin, the only stage of dipping which can be accurately determined from a mere photograph. Your first set showed a coin with excellent luster, and that's the coin you have. By all means, return the coin if you wish, but not based on my opinion one way or the other.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
4989 Posts |
Based on both sets of photos, I will say textbook MS-63
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Replies: 21 / Views: 2,498 |
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