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Replies: 19 / Views: 4,040 |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
4132 Posts |
The one you've pictured is definitely a 1913. I can't believe it ended up in a dateless lot with a date that clear, and being a semi-key date too. Some other stuff to look for: Type 1 (raised ground) are the first thing to look for. Those are all obviously 1913. Look for the 1916 doubled die on any dateless without a mintmark. It's easy to diagnose by the doubling of the feathers and other features. Also, most (but not all) of the 1918/7-D overdates have a diagnostic die crack starting near the top of the braid and going across the cheek. It may not be very visible on a heavily worn coin, but it's something to look for. Look for two-feather, 3-legged and 3 1/2 leg varieties (though the latter two are quite unlikely to have completely worn dates). If there's an RPM or an OMM, you might be able to determine the date by matching it to a known variety. Also, you can tell 1920, 1921 and 1924 dateless very easily.  If there is any fragment of the date showing, set it aside for starters. After you've looked at a lot of partial dates you'll be surprised how many you can pick out from just a tiny part of the date combined with the positioning of the F initial. Also, don't bother acid dating any without mintmarks. All the dates that are still worth something in acid-restored condition are S or D. The philly ones are probably worth more dateless.
Edited by CaptainFwiffo 03/28/2012 8:30 pm
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Valued Member
 United States
279 Posts |
Rachums - Thanks for explaining the difference to me. I definitely see it now. Specksnyder - I appreciate the key dates, I'll be sure to check back at them after I'm done treating them. CaptainFwiffo - Thanks for the further information! What exactly is a 2 feather error? I looked at numerous pictures, but I'm not sure what I'm looking for. I went through tonight, and I found a couple coins. Here are some more pictures: What do you all think the date is on this?   And, are all these high mounts?   Also, I might have found a 1913 type 2, but I can't see the date clear enough, and definitely can't get a picture.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1291 Posts |
1915. Also, if you're really going to go through the effort of checking for a 1916 DDO in a pile of dateless, no mint mark nickels, your best bet is to look for an extra wide hair ribbon first, then look at the feathers. I've found over 3 dozen 1918/7-D overdates and not one had that diagnostic crack. My opinion is that the crack goes away sometime before the date does...
Edited by weerdsteev 03/29/2012 1:40 pm
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Pillar of the Community
United States
4132 Posts |
Yep, all of those are 1913 type one (raised ground). I agree the one in the 2x2 is a 1915.
Edited by CaptainFwiffo 03/29/2012 1:52 pm
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Valued Member
 United States
279 Posts |
Cool! I put it in the 2x2 because it looked like a 1915 to me, too. It is a 1915-S. Thanks for all the help, again. :)
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Pillar of the Community
United States
2295 Posts |
Also, get a magnifying glass or loupe and look at the date that way. Sometimes you can see it, under magnification, much better than with the naked eye. At least my eyes work that way now at my age. 
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Valued Member
 United States
279 Posts |
I ended up breaking out the magnifying glass to make the job easier on me, which it did! So you're not the only one in that boat.
What is a 2 feather buffalo? I'm not sure what to look for.
Also, what are type 1's usually worth for P/D/S mints?
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1291 Posts |
Quote: Also, what are type 1's usually worth for P/D/S mints? If they're completely dateless, about 15 cents on the P and up to $1.00 on the other two - if you're lucky. If they have dates...I suggest getting a Red Book or looking at Trends or some other reference material to begin to get a feeling for it. (If you're serious, subscribe to CDN Grey Sheet and figure on getting 50% to 75% of bid prices for the particular grade.) I can't help you with "feathers". I'm not a Variety" guy.
Edited by weerdsteev 03/29/2012 4:24 pm
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Pillar of the Community
United States
4132 Posts |
The obverse normally shows three feathers, two obvious ones and just part of one poking out between the neck and one of the large feathers. On a couple dates, the third one got polished off (similar to the three-legged error). 
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Valued Member
 United States
279 Posts |
Are these all two feather buffalos? These are the only ones I found in my lot. The one I'm most unsure of is the bottom left one. 
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Pillar of the Community
United States
4132 Posts |
That's the idea... They're not too rare, and they can be polished off to varying degrees. The most desirable has no trace of the third feather at all. They occur for several different dates, so absent something else, it's not diagnostic for the date. The top two in your picture are 1921 though, here's hoping one has an "S".
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Valued Member
 United States
279 Posts |
Unfortunately, these all don't have a mint mark.. except maybe one, which is really warn. :(
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Valued Member
 United States
279 Posts |
I treated 3 of my dateless Buffalo nickels so far, and I found this. I'm going going to list the date, because I want to see if you all can read it. I know I can clearly read it in person, but I still like other opinions.   
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Valued Member
United States
268 Posts |
the first one is really nice   where did you get them from again?
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Rest in Peace
United States
9104 Posts |
I'd guess 13, but would want to see it in hand.
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Replies: 19 / Views: 4,040 |
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