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Replies: 31 / Views: 3,516 |
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Valued Member
 United States
355 Posts |
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Valued Member
United States
333 Posts |
Offer him .75 or $1 a piece. Anything else is probably too much.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1554 Posts |
The main point is this, low grade or junk coins always remain just that. In the end they are not resellable and generally a waste of money. Higher grade coins and Semi-key or Key date coins always remain desireable are nice to own and are in demand if you need to sell at some point. Take your time and build a nice set. Of course if you just want a set of lower grade coins and that makes you happy then by all means buy them but don't offer more than a buck appiece per coin maximum for common date low grade specimens!
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Moderator
 United States
189117 Posts |
Quote:If you are interested in putting together a set of Indian pennies the rule of thumb is to start out buying the Key and Semi-Key dates first as your money permits and then the Commons in higher grades as your money permits. This has always seemed anticlimactic to me. I believe there are really no rules and I definitely come at this from the other direction (saving the keys for last). I will say one thing in favour of this rule of thumb: buying the keys first could save you money in the long run.
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
10045 Posts |
 with Jbuck--no rules here, but I think it's a mistake for a new collector of IHCs to buy keys/semi-keys first--unless they're all slabbed. Better advice is to buy common coins first and get a feeling for what cleaned/whizzed/dipped IHCs look like, because there are many out there.
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Moderator
 United States
189117 Posts |
Quote: Better advice is to buy common coins first and get a feeling for what cleaned/whizzed/dipped IHCs look like, because there are many out there.

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Pillar of the Community
United States
1554 Posts |
The previous post are quite correct if you are buying willy-nilly from people you don't know or sight unseen, but, if you are trying to assemble a nice collection you should be buying from a reputible dealer. Most are willing to help you along the way so you you don't end up making costly mistakes. I laugh at people who buy coins from people they don't know thinking they really got a great deal or one upped that seller and then whine when they get home and realize they've been burned. Stick with a reputible dealer at first and acquire some good examples of fairly high grade coins to study and then after a year or so you'll feel more comfortable purchasing from auctions, sales, etc. Don't waste money on low grade common coins.
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
20753 Posts |
One more point about buying those is at least they all look basically the same. I sort of do that with many sets. Buy a lot of low grade ones and then attempt to upgrade them one at a time. One of the real irritations in doing this to me is appearances. At first you have a set that when you open an Album, all coins look similar. Same amount of wear and color. Then you purchase a fantastic MS graded one and it sticks out like it didn't belong at all. Now your stuck attempting to get more and more of those and those run into a lot, lot, lot of money. Maybe it doesn't bother most but I really hate to open an Album and see old, new, worn, shine, dull, coins one after another all different. I'd rather at times just have all the same even if all just cheap, worn, dirty coins.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1770 Posts |
its always the same cliche what someone is willing to pay to for something they want plain and simple
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Pillar of the Community
United States
652 Posts |
If I'm seeing it correctly it looks like there's a coin in the 1877 slot?
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1745 Posts |
Quote: If I'm seeing it correctly it looks like there's a coin in the 1877 slot? I think what you are seeing is the 1907 underneath the position. Look at the first page when it's turned, the 1877 slot is empty.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
652 Posts |
Yep - you're correct! I hadn't thought to look at the back of that page in the next picture.
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Moderator
 United States
189117 Posts |
There are a few empty holes "hiding" on the first page.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1007 Posts |
$200 is still too high, There aren't many semi-key dates in this set. With the exception of the 1885, 08S and 09S. I paid $1 to $1.25 for 1880-1909 dates. I bought a nice 1866 with partial Liberty for $10 on ebay. The semi-key dates here are 1866, 1873, 1875, 1876. I paid $10, $1, $6 and $5 for those. As for the condition I'm satisfied with what I have. They're not AU, but they're not filler either. On almost all of my post 1880 dates there is a full liberty on the headband. Think I counted 36 coins in the set you're considering. I'd pay under $100 for it. My collection is nearing completion and missing the 71, 72, 77, 08S & 09S and I don't think I've paid $100 for what I have so far but that will change when I get the missing keys. Also I don't understand the thought of buying the keys first. I buy what's available if it's there for a good price, key or non key date.
Edited by matchbox 04/04/2012 3:01 pm
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Pillar of the Community
United States
2295 Posts |
When is the auction? I hope you can look them over well, before you bid on them.
One reason to buy the keys first, is if your budget is limited, to get them first, since the price on the keys tends to go up much faster than the common ones.
If I did that in the 80s, I'd have the keys at a fraction of what they are today. Most people don't try to complete a set, once they see how expensive the keys are, compared to the rest of the coins. So they lose interest in that series. Instead I tried to get the common coins from most series first, before buying any keys. I should have focused on 1 or 2 series with the keys first.
And then I'd have a couple of complete sets, instead of many incomplete ones. Not a big deal though. I'm focusing on the keys and I'll probably sell most of my common coins to do so. I'm more interested in key coins now, in better grades, than the series as a whole.
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