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Valued Member
Canada
331 Posts |
Yes, that camera/lens combination will certainly allow you to do that. The size of print possible is determined by the resolution of your camera and the resolving power of the lens. With the above combination, you're good to make (very) large prints. Once you've got your camera/lens together, there are some other great threads on here that can help with regard to other important aspects of coin photography, such as tripods and lighting. Happy shooting!
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
4038 Posts |
Neither lens has a tripod collar, correct? This will force you to attach the camera itself to the tripod or copy stand, making it inconvenient to remove for general use, more difficult to control vibration, etc. One of the big advantages of a bellows setup is it can be permanently mounted on the tripod or stand, and the camera then easily removed without disturbing settings if you want to use it elsewhere. The central mounting also reduces vibrations, especially on longer exposures.
Contact me for photographic equipment or visit my home page at: http://macrocoins.com |
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
3229 Posts |
I have decent camera stand with a quick release block that attaches to the camera. Here is a pic of it. Opinions on its ability to avoid vibration with the T2I / 100mm lens set would be appreciated.  Rmpsrpms, what would be your suggested bellows set up be with the t2I? Being that I am a begginner I am leaning towards the 100mm lens because it seems more simple, but I am willing to entertain another idea. |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
4038 Posts |
I'm fond of Vivitar Triple Track bellows like this one that just sold for $20: http://www.ebay.com/itm/15084977575....m1439.l2649It has M42 threads that can be easily adapted to M39 using this adapter: http://www.ebay.com/itm/42mm-39mm-M...em4aaf2e7472Then you can mount an enlarging lens like one I describe in my "El-Cheapo Lenses" thread. I recommend 75mm with this bellows, but you can also use 105mm or even longer if you want more working distance. Anything shorter than 75mm and you may not be able to image full dollars as they'll more than fill the sensor. Contact me for photographic equipment or visit my home page at: http://macrocoins.com |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
3076 Posts |
I'm in line with your thinking Ray,, While there are many "NEW to date" MACRO lenses, built to just twist and turn for a great amount of money.......IT HAS already been proven that "new expensive" lenses are good but truely expensive....for the purpose of all macro idealology.
NEW ....assumes its the best for all situations....
CCF has proven TIME OVER TIME. that .....
Coins are in there own specialized arena....
It needs not space age techknowlegy.. but good lenses
which have been produced for 50 years,
The reality as many times mentioned, is....Great glass has been produced for 50 years, the trouble is how to adapt old lenses to new cameras........and the bellows is the best adaption of old to new for coins....
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1549 Posts |
Quote:
Neither lens has a tripod collar, correct? The Canon 100mm has the option at extra cost adding a tripod ring which I suggest is a reason to get that lens over the 60mm. However, if I had it to do over, I would buy the Sigma 150mm macro which comes with the tripod ring and lenshood as part of the standard package and allows even more working distance which is a feature I really value. I have taken coins with old manual lenses and some are certainly good performers. However the loss of auto diaphragm feature (and autofocus) makes shooting less convenient. I realize that some here have an almost religious attachment to their bellows units but I'm not prepared to test drive a dozen old lenses to find one that matches what I already have and put the extra work into using them. The Canon 100 macro quality is good enough for me.  |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
4038 Posts |
Quote:
I realize that some here have an almost religious attachment to their bellows units but I'm not prepared to test drive a dozen old lenses to find one that matches what I already have and put the extra work into using them You're missing out on all the fun, Doug! One thing to consider is that most of the newer dedicated Macro lenses shorten their focal length at higher mags. This is how they keep from having to extend themselves excessively for close-focusing. The 100mm Macro is more like a 60mm when focused at 1:1, and the 150mm Sigma is more like 90mm. So if you buy a dedicated Macro lens, you need to buy a longer one than you might expect in order to get enough effective focal length and thus working distance at higher mags. Fixed enlarging or duplicating lenses don't do this, so they don't have to be as "long" as dedicated Macros for the same working distance. My preferred range is 75-105mm for bellows use. I own a 150mm enlarging lens, but I would need a 3-foot tall copy stand to use it for coin photos! It's the equivalent of something like a 250mm dedicated Macro. |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
3229 Posts |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
4038 Posts |
Nice pics. You can't go wrong with the Canon 100 Macro. How much sharpening is being done in the camera vs after the shot? I usually have best results with no in-camera sharpening, and then just a touch after downsizing.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
3229 Posts |
I only clicked sharpen once in post pic processing.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
4132 Posts |
Great result! Looks like you've got a handle on lighting too. I have a bellows setup for coins right now, but I have the Canon 100mm macro on my camera gear wishlist. I can't exactly go running through the fields after bugs with my bellows and microscope stand.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
4038 Posts |
Quote:
I only clicked sharpen once in post pic processing. Are you shooting RAW? If not, then your camera is likely doing a fair amount of sharpening. If you are using the stock settings on your camera, then it's likely in "Standard" picture style, which has a default sharpening factor of "3" on a scale of 0 to 7, enough to show significant sharpening at the image size you're publishing. Canon's sharpening algorithm is actually very good, and does at least as well as their post-processing software, but it's a bad idea to do such a high level of sharpening in the camera. I'd recommend changing the sharpening to at most "1", preferably "0". Contact me for photographic equipment or visit my home page at: http://macrocoins.com |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
3229 Posts |
Rmpsrpms I do not think that I am shooting RAW and yeah I am using Standard. I am at such a begginners stage that I am afraid to change too much too soon. I will look in my manual and coin photography book to learn more about what you are saying. How does 0 -1 setting help? Thanks, TJ
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Moderator
United States
23522 Posts |
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I am at such a begginners stage that I am afraid to change too much too soon. Stop, here, and go with that thought. Concentrate on taking good pictures first. If you are not yet able to take a Cent and darn-near fill the sensor with this lens yet, go there first. Get a handle on differing lighting needs first. Learn how to tether the camera to the computer if you haven't yet. Out of the box, that lens is as good as any other. I spent years shooting with that lens, without ever fiddling with internal camera settings. One step at a time. We'll talk about RAW once you're comfortable with the other stuff. |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
3076 Posts |
Dave if he does not want to talk about RAW I do... and
post processing....lenses are one thing and pp is another...I would like some couching here..From any one... thanks...G
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Replies: 17 / Views: 3,825 |
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Posted 07/10/2012 10:27 am
