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 Replies: 42 / Views: 3,555 |
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
12437 Posts |
quote:
That ugly hole is one of the main reasons prices are through the roof on an error that no one actually knows how many are out there.
I read something similar to this in Q. David Bowers The Experts' Guide to Collecting... in regards to album holes. He also discussed the prices of some errors and die varieties listed in the Red Book vs. ones that are not. Without fail, Red Book status will elevate the price of a die variety or error similar to another that is unlisted. quote:
I have some 1937 Buffalo's that are heavily double dated and the grading services DID NOT even notice when I submitted them. Guess only the big guys and national dealers can get double die coins graded and encapsulated?
The grading services will not automatically attribute errors- you have to pay extra for proper attribution (I know, nickeled and dimed  ...) |
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
1083 Posts |
I am really enjoying this thread I must say. Hmm - I wonder if Ed Grimley was a Buff collector? As I have acquired more of these coins and placed them in my album, I have noticed quite a number with varying degrees of die rotation. This seems to occur more with dates earlier than 1920. Also thnaks to Ronald for a great book recommendation.
Colin
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
19964 Posts |
I have a BOMB LOAD of Buffalos. Tonight I crack open and additional 2+ rolls from my Grandfathers collection. They are all fairly worn, but the dates and everything are legible. Sounds like these may actually be worth something, huh? I've looked at the first batch closely, there was no 3-leggers in there and the majority were Philly, just a couple D's and S's so far. Based on what I have, these are rarer/more valuable? Question time:
What does "full horn" mean? Which specific dates/mint marks should I be watching for as I get these into 2x2's?
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1083 Posts |
Thad, most collectors are looking for a full four digit date. Full horn means that all of the horn on the buffalo is clearly visible. Other key grading points are a full rim on the reverse (the buffalo side) and a Liberty that does not merge with the rim on the obverse. Most of the valuable dates have a mint mark and are earlier or before 1925. Go to ebay and look at the listings and you can get a feel for market prices, but don't rely on the sellers wildly optimistic grades. Better yet buy a Coin Values magazine for values. If you find any good ones and you want to sell, email me. I might just need them. Colin |
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
19964 Posts |
quote:
Thad, most collectors are looking for a full four digit date. Full horn means that all of the horn on the buffalo is clearly visible. Other key grading points are a full rim on the reverse (the buffalo side) and a Liberty that does not merge with the rim on the obverse. Most of the valuable dates have a mint mark and are earlier or before 1925. Go to ebay and look at the listings and you can get a feel for market prices, but don't rely on the sellers wildly optimistic grades. Better yet buy a Coin Values magazine for values. If you find any good ones and you want to sell, email me. I might just need them.
Colin
For the life of me, I don't see a horn on the buffalo....not just my coins, any of the pics I've seen. Where's the blasted horn? LOL As far as selling, if I decide to sell any of them, which I probably will.....I'm going to post them in the F/S forum section here. I really do not like ebay at all and the only other forums I sell things on are computer hardware sites. Probably not the best place to get coins sold, LOL. |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1083 Posts |
The horn is on the side of his head.
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
19964 Posts |
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Valued Member
United States
133 Posts |
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
19964 Posts |
quote:
Thad, most collectors are looking for a full four digit date. Full horn means that all of the horn on the buffalo is clearly visible. Other key grading points are a full rim on the reverse (the buffalo side) and a Liberty that does not merge with the rim on the obverse. Most of the valuable dates have a mint mark and are earlier or before 1925. Go to ebay and look at the listings and you can get a feel for market prices, but don't rely on the sellers wildly optimistic grades. Better yet buy a Coin Values magazine for values. If you find any good ones and you want to sell, email me. I might just need them.
Colin
What dates are you looking for? I've gone though most of my collection, just one roll left. The conditions are VG-8 or better, with a few full horns. |
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Rest in Peace
United States
3730 Posts |
Just started a Buffalo nickel set. No way I can see that I will ever complete it. However, I'll pass it along to one of our kids, and maybe they can get the job done down the road. In the meantime it should be fun to fill as many empty spaces as I can.  |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
2177 Posts |
I would LOVE to see pics of Buffalos and it's grade from any members who have some. |
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
19964 Posts |
quote:
I would LOVE to see pics of Buffalos and it's grade from any members who have some.
You have to give me some specific dates/mints you're interested in. I have like 400 Buffalos in my possession. Lincoln Cent Lover!VERDI-CARE™ INVENTOR https://verdi.care/
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Pillar of the Community
United States
2177 Posts |
BadThad, any Buffalos will do. If you have any pre 1921 that would be cool.
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
19964 Posts |
Please give me a week or so, I'm still working hard on this collection getting everything organized and protected properly. Man, this hobby is VERY time consuming!
Lincoln Cent Lover!VERDI-CARE™ INVENTOR https://verdi.care/
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Pillar of the Community
United States
2177 Posts |
Take it easy BadThad and take your time. |
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Posted 06/05/2007 11:31 am
