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My Coin Photo Journey With The Nikon D800

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 Posted 12/03/2013  3:55 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add cc99999 to your friends list

My-Coin-Photo-Journey-With-The-Nikon-D800

This was shot at ISO 100 using the Nikkor 105mm f/2.8G at f/3.5 at 1/2000. I'd really love to see an image of a proper light set up- bulbs in play, etc... because I think light really is the thing here.



My-Coin-Photo-Journey-With-The-Nikon-D800

same settings.
Edited by cc99999
12/03/2013 4:30 pm
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 Posted 12/04/2013  12:23 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add rmpsrpms to your friends list
I'd still recommend a smaller aperture, as it seems your depth of field is suffering. I don't have experience with the D800, but my D7000 has a tendency to shake when in MUP mode. I highly recommend Live View rather than MUP as I've had better luck with the D7000 in LV and you can view live on screen for critical focusing using a tethering program. Camera Control Pro 2 is pretty expensive, but ControlMyNikon is cheap and actually more functional.
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 Posted 12/04/2013  2:44 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add cc99999 to your friends list
I think most of my problems start here:

My-Coin-Photo-Journey-With-The-Nikon-D800


The two lights attached to the copy stand are too weak to project much light. I've tried replacing the bulbs but for some reason only these bulbs work on it.

the small lights clipped onto the sides are led lights. all of these lights plus the ambient overhead light keeps things too warm. I know how to adjust white balance but i'd rather have things pre-shot work out better.

any ideas of better light bulbs, lighting, etc would be put to use.

*The white blank paper I use on the bottom of the stand is typically flat during production.*
Edited by cc99999
12/04/2013 2:45 pm
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 Posted 12/06/2013  1:43 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add austrokiwi to your friends list
I was intrigued to discover the D800's sensor is actually a sony made sensor:

http://www.chipworks.com/en/technic...n&Itemid=815
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 Posted 12/06/2013  2:18 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add SsuperDdave to your friends list
Sensor manufacturing is much like LCD manufacturing - few individual fabs, lots of customers. 80% of Sony's sensor production is for external customers.
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 Posted 12/07/2013  10:34 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add cc99999 to your friends list


My-Coin-Photo-Journey-With-The-Nikon-D800

So I haven't solved the light problem yet. Image above was shot with natural light from a nearby window at F16 1000 ISO 1/100.

But I did figure out that you have to turn off VR on stands and tripods- something I never realized before- because it creates shake (to counter manmade shake). I think the image is sharper. now onto lighting.
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 Posted 12/07/2013  10:40 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add rmpsrpms to your friends list
f16 is overkill and is likely causing some unsharpness. I would still recommend f5.6 or f8.

Agree on VR. It is not recommended for Macro.
Contact me for photographic equipment or visit my home page at:
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 Posted 12/10/2013  11:37 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add cc99999 to your friends list
Close but no cigar...

My-Coin-Photo-Journey-With-The-Nikon-D800

F/8 - 1/100 - 1SO 1000 - This was shot in aperture priority mode.

This proof was shot with over head light, coin tilted at a 30 degree angle on a home-made stand. Camera was mounted on a tripod. Image distortion is very minimal- to non-significant. I liked the image until I noticed the top of Franklin's head and a few other points where the image was too white. This is one of the better toned proof images I've ever taken however.
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 Posted 12/10/2013  7:54 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add SsuperDdave to your friends list
I'm not seeing any problems. Proofs are tough, very different than any other coin, and getting one with as little washed out as you managed is an achievement. That one's not close, it's there. I really like it from an aesthetic standpoint, and you're plainly at a point where the only quibbles are purely aesthetic. Which means opinions about the quality of your shot aren't based on technical issues any more.

Keep in mind, the greater the luster, the greater the headache. You're going to find any circulated coin an absolute pushover after what you're going through.
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 Posted 12/11/2013  12:06 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add austrokiwi to your friends list
If you really want to take outstanding shots of proofs you need to use axial lighting. Look for a beam splitter (heres an example http://www.ebay.com/itm/Teleprompte...m3ca72bae36) This thread will give you an idea how to use it:

http://www.coincommunity.com/forum/...PIC_ID=20615
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 Posted 12/11/2013  2:43 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add SsuperDdave to your friends list
This is my "proof rig," a cheap 9" circline kitchen fixture with a hole cut through the center for the camera:

My-Coin-Photo-Journey-With-The-Nikon-D800

This is what it's capable of:

My-Coin-Photo-Journey-With-The-Nikon-D800
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 Posted 12/11/2013  2:44 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add cc99999 to your friends list
what are the lights? type of bulbs? and where are they in relation to your camera?
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 Posted 12/11/2013  3:25 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add SsuperDdave to your friends list

Quote:
what are the lights? type of bulbs? and where are they in relation to your camera?


Um, that's all in the first picture....
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 Posted 12/11/2013  4:09 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add cc99999 to your friends list
ok, I see it now.
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 Posted 12/17/2013  11:32 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add cc99999 to your friends list


My-Coin-Photo-Journey-With-The-Nikon-D800

This shot was done super quick, handheld, and only to get a sense of color and light dispersal.

This was shot inside a Pro-Cyc My Studio lightbox. While this approach will not work for all types of coins- it will certainly work on raw material and toners.
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