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Close-Up Lens Recommendations For A Nikon D80?

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 Posted 04/10/2016  10:17 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add rmpsrpms to your friends list
Wow, I am really off my game this weekend! The chipped adapter I linked to contains optics to allow infinity focus. You do not want this! Most of the chipped adapters seem to have these, and if you end up buying one, you will need to remove the lens. Not usually a big deal, but the adapters with optics are often more expensive. Sorry for the poor recommendation.
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 Posted 04/10/2016  4:36 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add lrbguy to your friends list
No problem, Ray. I was trying to sort through that problem and held off on buying. Thanks for confirming my suspicions. Based our your recommendations here are my purchases so far:

Rodenstock 75mm 1:4.5 El Omegar;
El-Nikkor 75mm f4 (your 2011 tests came up with this);
M42-M42 Mount Focusing Helicoid Ring Adapter 17-31mm (fine focus)
M42 Lens to NIKON Adapter Ring For D80
M39 to M42 Step Up Ring

I am also looking into getting
Macro AF Confirm M42 Screw Lens to Nikon F Mount Adapter Black D610 D750 D800

or for about $30 there is a AF Confirm adapter (with glass) that includes the D80 among the list of supported cameras.

or there is also a chipset adaptor with glass for about $50 (also good for the D80) that has a Dandelion chipset that will prompt for focus confirmation, enable metering, and give some flex on aperture and FL (with a flexible calibration for focus confirmation)

But here I have a bit of confusion:

The AF confirm adapters seem to be intended for mounting the adapter directly to the camera body. In that arrangement the pin configuration can do something.

BUT While I am impressed by all this, I can't figure out what, if any, of these functions will work if the bellows has no pins at the camera mount.

I recognize that an enlarger lens is not going to have any of the auto functions, and that the pins are supposed to merely allow the Aperture priority settings. But they can do that if they are mounted to the bellows down where the lens is.

I can't quite get the sense of it.


Edited by lrbguy
04/10/2016 4:42 pm
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 Posted 04/12/2016  10:57 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add rmpsrpms to your friends list
Hah! I should have written out the diagram for this setup, because you are right about the chipped adapter. I was not thinking bellows when I wrote the recommendation. I was thinking extensions. With the bellows between camera and adapter, it will of course not work any better than a non-chipped adapter.

If your camera requires the chipped adapter to give the functions you want, you'll need to double-adapt. Here would be the order of components:

Camera -> Chipped Nikon-M42 adapter -> M42-Nikon adapter -> bellows -> Unchipped Nikon-M42 adapter -> M42-M39 adapter -> Enlarging lens

The M42-Nikon adapter would be like this one:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Macro-Nikon...JqGQ4w3NsZ_g

I must warn you...all these adapters may cause you problems with too long a minimum extension to allow your 75mm lenses to achieve a low enough magnification for framing larger coins. You may be OK without these extra adapters, but I think you very likely will have issues with the adapters in place.
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 Posted 04/13/2016  11:12 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add lrbguy to your friends list

Quote:
I must warn you...all these adapters may cause you problems with too long a minimum extension to allow your 75mm lenses to achieve a low enough magnification for framing larger coins. You may be OK without these extra adapters, but I think you very likely will have issues with the adapters in place.



This was part of the problem I was having with the 60mm Micro Nikkor. I had to use tubes which allowed less extension than the bellows minimum, and my shooting distance put me too close for lighting control.

But even if we opt for full manual control, and eliminate most of the additions to the stack, it would seem a longer lens will be necessary to get me what I need. So, for enlarger lens should I be looking at a 105mm or even a 150? Any recommendation?

I have picked up a couple of 75mm enlarging lenses for flexibility and backup, but I am not averse to adding a longer lens if that is what it will take. I just need to figure out the optimum length for my setup.





On the matter of the final lens adapter, which you are calling "M42-M39 adapter," I am having trouble being sure about some of the odd descriptions.

Skip the rant if you wish ----------------------------

My understanding of the convention was that the "up" or "down" was always in the direction of receptacle to attachment. In this case that is: camera to lens, 42 to 39, requiring an adapter with threads 42/male to 39/female.

One vender referred to an adapter attaching an M39 lens to an M42 mount camera as a "step-up ring."
("M39-M42 Metal Step Up Ring Adapter for Leica M39 lens to M42 Camera")
Another called the same arrangement a "step down ring" - with a big price difference.
(42mm-39mm step down ring adapter
PENTAX M42 BODY to LEICA M39 LENS)

In terms of function both of the above seemed to be describing the same thing, but with poor illustrations. I bought the first one based on price; 76 cents shipped. Big deal.
Sorry for the rant. Much ado about nothing, at least not in dollars, but....
-------------------------


With all the turnaround among the sellers I think/hope I bought the right one, or I have that much more down time.


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 Posted 04/13/2016  4:50 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add rmpsrpms to your friends list
To be safe go with at least 90mm. 105mm will work for sure for larger coins, but may not let you get much magnification on the other end. Since you already have the 75mm, you can use them for smaller coins or higher magnifications, so a 105mm may be your best bet. 150mm is quite long and will require very long working distance.

When you see an auction that says "step-up ring" pay very close attention. Usually these are for filters and the threading is not the correct pitch. What you want is 1mm pitch on both 42mm and 39mm sides. The pitch for filters is usually tighter, 0.75mm in these cases. Just make sure the threading is what you want. Also, I've never seen consistency in how they name these, so you must go by the pics.
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 Posted 04/14/2016  11:03 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add lrbguy to your friends list
I don't want to make a mistake on this so I will ask:


Quote:
To be safe go with at least 90mm. 105mm will work for sure for larger coins,



Far and away the majority of the ancients I will be photographing are going to range in size between that of a US quarter and 3/4-the-size-of-a-dime. There is a large group of provincial bronzes that measure about the size of a half dollar. Beyond that, the occasions are infrequent to say the least.

The mainstay of the shooting will be in bronze or silver, in a narrow range of diameters between a quarter and a nickel.

For that use a 90?
or a 105?
I have neither. For the bellows stack we have been discussing, if I have to pick ONE, which one?
Edited by lrbguy
04/14/2016 11:04 am
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 Posted 04/14/2016  11:05 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add rmpsrpms to your friends list
If you're going the 105mm route, and don't want to spend much, I'd recommend the PZO 105mm Amar (not the Amar/S). This is another sleeper lens that I was planning to recommend to the group after the B&L 10x, but might as well do it now since we're talking 105mm lenses. The Amar is not as sharp as the 108LFOV or 110Scitex but it has almost zero long-CA and this gives a true-color presentation. Plus, they are super cheap, though you will likely have to buy them from an EU vendor.
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 Posted 04/14/2016  11:09 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add rmpsrpms to your friends list

Quote:

Far and away the majority of the ancients I will be photographing are going to range in size between that of a US quarter and 3/4-the-size-of-a-dime. There is a large group of provincial bronzes that measure about the size of a half dollar. Beyond that, the occasions are infrequent to say the least.

The mainstay of the shooting will be in bronze or silver, in a narrow range of diameters between a quarter and a nickel.

For that use a 90?
or a 105?
I have neither. For the bellows stack we have been discussing, if I have to pick ONE, which one?


I would expect the 75mm will work for up to a Quarter even with the extra extension due to adapters. I'd recommend waiting to try the 75mm lens(es) before going for the 90mm or 105mm. If you do want to take the plunge, then go for the Amar or similar cheap 105mm.

One thing we have not touched on is how you are holding your bellows. I am recommending the 105mm based on the assumption you will have enough working distance to use it. If your setup is compact, then your focal length is more constrained. What are you using for a copy stand?
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 Posted 04/14/2016  12:07 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add lrbguy to your friends list

Quote:
What are you using for a copy stand?



I don't recall the brand name but I bought it years ago (late 70s). It has a 3 foot column and an adjustable spring loaded mount. At full extension the front of the lens would be 3.5-4 feet above the baseboard. I would have to have the camera image going into a monitor to see it. That is the extreme limit of course, and I have never been close to that, but I am sure to have enough room for the kinds of lenses we are likely to use.

As for stability, it has been satisfactory for my purposes for the past 40 years. I use a remote cable release.
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 Posted 04/14/2016  1:15 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add rmpsrpms to your friends list
In that case the 105mm lens is the way to go for larger coins and such. 75mm should be fine for smaller coins.
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 Posted 04/25/2016  11:39 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add lrbguy to your friends list
All the pieces finally arrived today, and almost everything fits together. However, the Confirm- Nikon-to-M42 adapter is going to be a problem. It fits fine when I go straight to the camera. But in order to get the clearance that will let me rotate the camera on the bellows, I need to add an extension tube to the setup first. When I add that, then the chip on the adapter hangs on the chip inside the tube, so it doesn't sit square and I can't get a lockdown. Fortunately I also bought an adapter without a chip, so I can get started with the setup.

For lenses I have three 75mm (a Rode El Omicron, an El Nikkor, and an Apo-Rodagon) and a 105mm El Nikkor. I also have three micro objectives (2 10x and a 4x) and I'm working on a conversion that will allow a dedicated bellows for micro.

As I work to learn these tools I want to turn attention to lighting. I must confess I feel like I am now back at Photo 101, especially in the matter of lighting. I hope that in a few days I will be ready for a critique and some corrective tips, but at the moment lighting is hit or miss. I have two large lamps with 5000K bulbs in them, but no snoots or diffusers.

Is it better to put the diffusers on the lamps or to mount a diffuser board on the lens stack? If the latter, I'm not sure how to do that. Either way, I think I'm in the market for some translucent ridged plastic. Anyone got any recommendations?
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 Posted 04/26/2016  12:53 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add pepactonius to your friends list

Quote:
but at the moment lighting is hit or miss.


For me, lighting is still hit-or-miss. I usually have to try out several ways of lighting each coin, and then settle for the way that has the fewest problems.

This means I need to rapidly try out several light configurations (one Jansjo, two Jansjos, high angle, lower angle, more diffuse, less diffuse, asymmetric combinations of the above, etc., etc.) For this, I have the diffuser attached to the lens, and shine the Jansjo lights onto it from various positions/angles/distances, etc.
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 Posted 04/26/2016  10:12 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add rmpsrpms to your friends list
Rather than using translucent rigid plastic, I highly recommend Canson Opalux diffusion paper. It's cheap and easy to work with.
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 Posted 04/26/2016  1:46 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add lrbguy to your friends list

Quote:
I highly recommend Canson Opalux diffusion paper.


Thanks for the tip, Ray. Apparently Amazon isn't handling it now if ever again, and nothing comes up for ebay. I found a few vendors that carry it but most insist on selling you a 10 pack. Okay.

Once I have it, how do I get it to do what I want? That is, how do I get it to hold the position and distance I want?. I noticed in your 2nd camera configuration that you have some mounted by the lens and it appears to be lying flat. Even at a paper weight of 110 lbs, doesn't that require some kind of frame?

Not looking for trade secrets, but color me clueless.
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 Posted 04/26/2016  5:43 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add rmpsrpms to your friends list
It holds its shape nicely without a frame up to a fairly large size. The configuration you see in the Example-2 system is exactly what I use. In the case shown, the Opalux is stuck to the lens with double-stick tape. But some lenses don't have a flat area to stick to, so you can attach the Opalux using a filter adapter or other accessory that threads onto the lens.

I have very few trade secrets. Lighting is obviously a critical aspect of coin photography but everyone does it differently. I've shown several times on various forums exactly how I do it, but I don't think anyone actually does it the same way. I'm sure you'll find your own way to use the Opalux! It's a nice material with good properties for making diffusers.

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