Quick Question About Opening ANACS Slabs

I have not cracked open one of the newest slabs from anacs but the old new slabs I used to open the same way as I did PCGS and NGC slabs, with my dremel and a cutting wheel. Now the old old new slabs of anacs you just had to twist them in your hands and they would pop open like a clam shell

I've been breaking open all sorts of those slabs for many years. Although I too have a Dremel, band saw and others. I've found that a vise to hold and a small saber saw with a simi metal cutter blade works best. Of course the Dremel depends on if variable speed or not. Mine is not so the very high RPM makes the plastics hot and flow back together. I don't have a fine toothed blade on my band saw either. On a saber saw the vast variety of blades accessable for a cheap (decent) price for me is the best. A metal cutter blade is to fine toothed and also usually makes the plastics run back together. A to course blade mades pieces fly around. A simi metal cutter works just fine. Cut off the edges and the things just fall apart.

If you don't want the 'slab', why buy it in the first place.
Surely unslabbed coins are available.
Don't buy work for yourselves and don't support a 'slabbing' industry that you don't seem to want or agree with.
There is a life on the other side of 'slabbed coins'.
regards,

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If you don't want the 'slab', why buy it in the first place.

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Buy the coin, not the slab. It also could be that you want to know that it's a problem free coin.

Most of the time learning to grade for yourself is the appropriate action. However, at least with some US series coins, values can easily double or triple with an incremental increase in grade. For instance, the 1934-S Peace $1 has a price spread from AU-MS63 of $500 to $3800- huge difference in value for not much difference in grade. Peace dollars are notoriously difficult to grade since so many were weakly struck with flat luster. Many would look at some MS63 examples and swear that they were AU at best- they can be that difficult to grade. A professional grader will have seen hundreds of examples of this coin in those grades and know from experience how to differentiate between lousy strike and light wear for this particular coin. I personally can grade Peace $1s half-way decently but I would not want to take my chances on a raw coin that is priced at $3500 but it might actually be AU55 or 58- that is a big money gamble. Knowing how to differentiate between wear and strike in general will take you far in learning how to grade but not all coins are graded alike nor can they be when accounting for minting methods.

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Because ANACS slabs don't fit into a Dansco 7070 very well?

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Dremel the ends off, then pop it apart and very carefully take the coin out of the ring.

Muckeye, I'm not sure where you're going with all this but...

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If you don't want the 'slab', why buy it in the first place.

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I didn't. I bought the coin.

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Surely unslabbed coins are available.

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Of course unslabbed coins are available. But that means you should avoid a buying opportunity because the coin is in a slab?

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Don't buy work for yourselves and don't support a 'slabbing' industry that you don't seem to want or agree with.

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You consider cracking a coin out of plastic work? Who said I don't agree with the slabbing industry?

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The simple answer is don't buy mail order.

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I choose to buy coins from ebay as well as from trusted dealers and coins shows. There are advantages with both, so I utilize both.

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If you can afford expensive coins cultivate a reputable dealer.

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Or rather buy from sources that are right for YOU, the individual buyer.

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Anyone who buys a coin worth less than $100.00 in a slab is, in my opinion, a fool.

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So if someone buys a certified coin with a market value of say, $50 and they pay $50, they're a fool?