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Replies: 19 / Views: 7,193 |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
5362 Posts |
The only thing missing is SG, but based on the picture of the suspect area, I see no problem calling that a struck in fin. The coin does look real and if you have owned it 30 years - it is not one of the Modern Chinese copies in silver - they WERE NOT BEING MADE 30 years ago.
I breathe a sigh of relief.
I do have a question. Did you store this coin long term in a vinyl flip? The green coloration on the high spots looks like the waxy almost wet corrosion that older vinyl flips cause. If so soak the coin in acetone and then oil it and store it in a non PVC holder.
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
1415 Posts |
  Thanks for the info SwamperBob   I can now breath   If you don't mind me asking. How long should I soak the puppy and what do you mean 'oil it'? Thanks in advance for your time and experence
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Pillar of the Community
United States
5362 Posts |
I presume from your answer that the "green" is vinyl reaction products - not verdigris.
The acetone soak should be a few minutes on each side - enough to dissolve the green - it should go into solution quickly by simply swirling the glass. Do NOT put acetone in plastic or Styrofoam or you will be sorry. Acetone eats plastics of many types. Do not use nail polish remover with oils or scent. I buy pure acetone at the pharmacy - it is cheap. Use a glass container and cover the coin with acetone. You can swirl the liquid around in the glass. Remember acetone boils below body temperature and the fumes are very flammable. Good ventilation is a must.
Once done on both sides and all the green is GONE (you can soak the coin in acetone safely - The acetone will also remove many fake patinas as well) bathe the coin in warm water and mild soap. No rubbing. Dry the coin by patting it with a soft cotton cloth (old cloth diapers that have been washed many times are great). Then let it dry completely in the air - remember to turn it over.
Oil the coin with coin oil available from your local coin shop to keep the air away from the bare metal surface. Follow directions but keep the film VERY thin. DO NOT apply with paper towels they can scratch.
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
1415 Posts |
SwamperBob, Thanks for the information. Here it is after the acetone swim. I will have to pick up some 'coin oil' the next time I am at a shop.  
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Pillar of the Community
United States
5362 Posts |
Good the green came right off. It can actually harm the coin to leave it in place - the way I understand it a chemical reaction takes place between the plastic and the copper in the coin to make the oily green slime.
I guess it removes just a bit of the surface.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
3499 Posts |
swamperbob- Was it fairly common for these spurs/ fins to become rolled back onto the surface of the blank by the edging process? I am just curious since this seems to be evident on my 1769M on the obverse from 1-2 o'clock position. Also, I am 99.9% sure that my 8 is real. 
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Pillar of the Community
United States
5362 Posts |
I have seen quite a few with the same defect - it is nothing that would add value to the coin as long as it stays within the dentils. That is where it occurs on all of the copies I have seen. It happened as a result of a worn cutter. So if the fins got too big the weight would have been effected and the fin would have been clipped off.
But if a larger one, a really big one made it by the weight check I presume it would be more valuable especially if it extended through the legend or date. How much who knows?
I don't think there are too many error specialists in this particular series.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
3499 Posts |
swamperbob- Thanks for the info! I really didn't think that any small error like this would add value to my coin. Rather, I just wanted to be sure that it did not detract from the grade or value.
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Valued Member
Philippines
386 Posts |
Both coins are beautiful. Seems at one glance, they are easily identifiable as originals. It is a nice thing that we get to familiarize more on 8 reales as these topics continue to evolve specially with our coin pictures and of course through the expertise of our maestro - Thanks to Swamperbob  By the way, with the above 2 coins, how much do these 8 reales fairly cost in the market nowadays? I am just curious how do they appreciate in terms of values annually?
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Pillar of the Community
United States
3499 Posts |
Pandesalapi- Thanks! Well, mine (the 1769) probably grades about Fine-15, which probably goes for around US$75. I will admit that I got a great deal on mine in that I paid only $40 back in 2007.
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Valued Member
Philippines
386 Posts |
Quote: I will admit that I got a great deal on mine in that I paid only $40 back in 2007. Wow Archraz, That was a bargain price. 
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Valued Member
United States
74 Posts |
Those are beautiful 8 Reales.
I am the new proud owner of a 1776 MoFM graded XF-45. This is my only Pillar purchased from a reputable dealer to assure the authenticity of the coin. It is a real delight to own.
The 1767 pictured here looks very similar to my coin.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
3499 Posts |
Rayhaldo-umm, honestly that is not a good sign that your coin looks like the 1767 Dos Mundo coin pictured here since a 1776 8R should be the Busto type with the king on the obverse. I really hope that your coin has the king on the obverse, and that your comparison was merely an equation of grade and not of actual coin design. haha
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Valued Member
United States
74 Posts |
Quote: I am the new proud owner of a 1776 MoFM graded XF-45. Thanks for pointing out the error I made in the date - my typo. The 8 Reale date is 1766. 
Edited by Rayhaldo 05/30/2010 7:20 pm
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Pillar of the Community
United States
5362 Posts |
I figured it must be something like that. I knew the dealers I suggested wouldn't sell a fake.
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Replies: 19 / Views: 7,193 |
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