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Moderator
 United States
23522 Posts |
Ranking these is tough - it's an embarrassment of riches. There isn't a poor shot in the bunch.
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
4038 Posts |
None are poor, even the Industar. This was my point to dougsmit, ie that you can get quite good results for small $$. Prices I paid for these lenses averaged around $60, and ranged from $15 (Vivitar) up to >$200 (75ARD1). That extra $$ for the 75ARD1 buys you quality, but even it is not so much better that it's really needed except for critical applications. I'm working on a 105mm shootout now (actually, 90mm-110mm range). The 75mm shootout did not include any dedicated macro lenses, as not only don't I own any but I'm not aware of any available except for cine work. And I don't think any of those come close in quality to what I am showing. I'll include some Micro-Nikkors in the 105 group, as well as some exotics. Speaking of exotics, I started the 105 shootout with the 105mm Printing-Nikkor, and thought I'd post it separately first before I complete the rest. The 105PN is such a joy to use. So easy to focus, even at f8, since critical focus is not limited by lens aberrations, and diffraction is just starting to show its ugly head. Here are the overall, WE, and Cheek details for the 105PN:    Contact me for photographic equipment or visit my home page at: http://macrocoins.com |
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Moderator
United States
23522 Posts |
Man, that Printing-Nikkor is in a class by itself. It's visibly better than the Rodenstock, which is already staggering. There's one on ebay for only $1800....  |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
4038 Posts |
Yes, the 105PN is clearly the best out there for work around this magnification. The 75ARD1 is just behind it, though. I've completed my 105mm Shootout. Turns out I have 13 lenses in the 90-105mm range. Some are enlarging lenses, some dedicated macros, and two bellows lenses. I used to have a Nikon 105 Bellows lens, and also a Pentax 100 bellows lens, but I sold both of those some time ago. Anyway, here are the overall pics. I'll post the WE and Cheek details later, along with my ranking of these lenses: Vivitar 105mm f4.5 enlarging  Tominon E66 94mm f4 Bellows  Minolta Rokkor 100mm f4 Bellows  Rodenstock Rodagon 105mm f5.6 enlarging  Nikon Printing-Nikkor 105mm f2.8 Duplicating  Nikon Micro-Nikkor 105mm f2.8VR Macro  Nikon Micro-Nikkor 105mm f4 Macro  Industar 110mm f4.5 enlarging  Industar 110mm f4 enlarging  Fujinon-ES 105mm f4.5 enlarging  Nikon EL-Nikkor 105mm f5.6 enlarging  Steinheil Culminar 105mm f4.5 enlarging  Vivitar-Tokina 90mm f2.5 Macro  Contact me for photographic equipment or visit my home page at: http://macrocoins.com |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
3076 Posts |
Other than the 105 printing lens, what is the price range of the others, they all take good quality pictures, how much are the cheaper ones?
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Pillar of the Community
United States
4038 Posts |
Here is approx what you would expect to pay for these on ebay in good condition and their relative rarity... 105mm Vivitar: $25-$35 (not common) 94mm Tominon: $35-$50 (rare) 100mm Rokkor: $75-$125 (not common) 105mm Rodagon: $50-$75 (common) 105mm Printing-Nikkor: $1500-$2500 (rare) 105mm VR Micro-Nikkor: $800 (common) 105mm f4 Micro-Nikkor: $250-$350 (fairly common) 110 f4.5 Industar: $25 + $20 shipping (not common) 110 f4 Industar: $35 + $20 shipping (not common) 105mm EL-Nikkor: $75-$125 (common) 105mm Culminar: $50-$75 (rare) Vivitar-Tokina 90mm: $250-$350 (not common) My personal recommendation is an 80mm or 105mm EL-Nikkor. They're relatively cheap compared with a dedicated macro lens, and outperform many of them. A Rodagon or Rodagon-S in 80mm or 105mm will do just as well but. If you just want to go a little cheaper, go with the 75mm EL-Nikkor. If you want to go very cheap, or just to try out the concept, buy a Vivitar 75 or 105. Don't go shorter than 75, or longer than 105. Keep in mind that these fixed lenses don't have the annoying focal length shortening of most dedicated macros, and thus maintain their focal length vs magnification. In this way a 105mm enlarging lens is about the same as a 150mm macro for coin shots since the 150mm shortens its focal length to achieve close focusing. The 75mm enlarging lens is actually longer than most 100-105mm macros for coin shots. Sorry if this is confusing, but it is... Contact me for photographic equipment or visit my home page at: http://macrocoins.com |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
3076 Posts |
Thanks Ray, recently I bought on ebay an unopened EL -OMEGAR 3.5 - 75MM ENLARGING LENS- for about $25ish, I still need to get the bellows and a camera to attach it to, I asked about the 105's for the same reason, one step at a time... One thing I think about, if one uses a bellows, and a decent enlarging ring for coin purposes, you don't need the expensive macro lenses...of course your obviously stuck into the macro mode for close ups, and the camera with out the traditional lenses is useless in general for what most people use a camera for LOL... |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
4038 Posts |
The EL-Omegar is a big step up from the Vivitar, and you got it for cheap! I think you'll like that Rodenstock lens.
One consideration is that if you do a lot of "regular" photography with the same camera, being able to remove it from the setup and come back easily later may be important to you. Having a dedicated setup all configured and stable helps with this. Just pull the camera off the bellows, mount your "regular" lens, and off you go. When you're done, take the lens off, mount the camera to the bellows, and you're taking coin pics again...
Contact me for photographic equipment or visit my home page at: http://macrocoins.com |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
3076 Posts |
Thanks ray, but yet I am not a camera guy..  so I'm really not interested in the full use of the camera's possibilities for only one purpose, coins....the camera's I have can do the point and shoot of general photagraphy without going high end of things I wont see with my eyes...but for Macro...Is why I write and ask of these things... |
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Pillar of the Community
Canada
2784 Posts |
ray truly amazing I have read this thread many times. what I have learned from this thread. one the lighting, setting the camera and focus. you know what makes the camera work that is where my weakness is I don't know enough yet about the functions and the setting. I will say thou that I am starting to master them. if I can get to 70 to 80% of your work level. I will be very happy with that. thanks for this shoot out. it is a great one. on yes ray there is a new shootout on the web with both of your rodenstock going head to head with a Olympus 80mm f4 very interesting the rodenstock 75mm 2:1 mag was considered the best over all. but the first part of the shootout 75mm rodenstock 1:1 mag lead them but fell behind as the magnification was increased. the shootout is easy to find. I still don't know how to attach a link here have a great one
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Pillar of the Community
United States
9395 Posts |
Quote:
there is a new shootout on the web with both of your rodenstock going head to head with a Olympus 80mm f4 very interesting the rodenstock 75mm 2:1 mag was considered the best over all. but the first part of the shootout 75mm rodenstock 1:1 mag lead them but fell behind as the magnification was increased. the shootout is easy to find. I still don't know how to attach a link here have a great one Some while ago, compared the central resolution of an Olympus 80mm f/4 bellows lens with a 75mm APO-Rodagon D 1x lens, both at 1x magnification using a 1951 USAF test chart. Just looking at the image captured directly by the Canon T6s sensor shows that the central resolution of the overall system is essentially the same for both lenses at f/4 and f/5.6 (f/8 and f/11 effective): about 80.6 lp/mm. This is about 3 pixels on the camera sensor, which is about all you can expect, especially with the Canon T6s anti-aliasing filter. In order to show the superiority of the APO-Rodagon, I needed to use the Rick Littlefield technique using a 10x Mitutoyo microscope objective to photograph the areal image of the two lenses. This technique removes the camera sensor as the limiting factor in measuring resolution, and is described in an old thread over at Photomacrography.net Using the 10x objective, the actual lens resolution for the Olympus lens is about 181 lp/mm at f/4 and the resolution of the APO_Rodagon at f/4 is about 203 lp/mm. At f/5.6, both lenses show a resolution of about 128-143 lp/mm according to the test chart. Note that this test tells us nothing about field flatness or chromatic aberration, etc., and the results are valid only for the single copy of each lens that I have. |
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Pillar of the Community
Canada
2784 Posts |
pepactonius wow I have been doing quite a lot of reading on this stuff. I have leaned that everybody has a preference. when it comes to taking pictures. the shootout is very detailed. if I recall when the magnification went 2:1 it was the Rodenstock 2:1 first the Olympus and Rodenstock 1:1 at about the same. I was wondering did you find that shoot out. myself I don't know much about the Olympus. I would imagine it is a great lens. I just thought ray might like to read that shootout because I know he did a test with both the Rodenstock in a comparison. I think most lenses if tested preform very well. have a great one, ray has shown that here in his test. I believe that most of the problems shooting coins is more about the lighting then anything else. that is about the metal and which coin one is shooting copper versus silver. if we can all get on top of the lighting the rest gets easy to do. ray showed his little light adapter. I am putting one of them together. I will see if it makes a difference with my photos.do some photos with your Olympus and share them. so we can see your work. I would like to see your work and how this lens preforms you have a good day.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
9395 Posts |
Quote:
I was wondering did you find that shoot out. I didn't find it, unless you are referring to coinimaging.com, which compares many lenses, including the Olympus 80mm. Perhaps you could give us a term to do a Google search with, or type in the URL? As for samples with the 80mm Olympus (on both good and bad days), check out the CCF thread "How far back can we go? Third Edition - 2015!" in the Main Coin Forum. I have uploaded many photos there starting on page 46 (1932). Almost all of the photos that are not tagged with something like "scanned-in film prints" are taken with the Olympus 80mm lens and a modern Canon DSLR. The film prints were usually taken with a Nikon FE SLR and the 55mm Micro-Nikkor 55mm f/2.8 lens, and all were taken prior to 1998. |
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Pillar of the Community
Canada
2784 Posts |
pepactonius thank you. I will do that. I will go check some of that out. I would like to see your work again thank you. I will go and get that link . I will call my son he will tell me how to attach a link here. have a great one
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Pillar of the Community
Canada
2784 Posts |
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Replies: 21 / Views: 25,100 |
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Posted 09/21/2011 4:12 pm
