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1943 I Penny Broadstruck Error

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Pillar of the Community
Australia
4411 Posts
 Posted 04/21/2012  02:49 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add enworb to your friends list
US grading is much more lenient than Australian standards mmmprgan. I stand by the grade of VF maybe gVF. Thats not to say it isn't a nice error coin obviously worth more than a standard coin.
Pillar of the Community
United States
570 Posts
 Posted 04/21/2012  2:47 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add mmorgan22 to your friends list
Thanks for the responses. I read that Australia grading standards are more stringent than American standards. It's always good to get others honest opinions. Everyone on CCF will tell you the truth about a coin. That's why I'm asking on here. All you guys are great
Pillar of the Community
Australia
1295 Posts
 Posted 04/21/2012  7:03 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add markn to your friends list
I am going to buck the trend here and suggest that your coin could be better than VF bit it's pretty much impossible to grade accurately from your image. Generally wear on those coins would show as discolouration in most images and I see very little of it on your coin. There's certainly very little colour break in the hair above the ear and the top of the ear is still all there. The same is true of the kings's hair (it's pretty much all there) and there's very little scuffing visible on the high points of the roo.

If we're grading to the ANDA standard then a VF coin will show "flat spots on the high points of the design" where as an EF coin "light wear is apparent on the high points of the design on both sides" and "lustre may still be present but if so then only in the legend around the rim". To my eyes, at least based on the image supplied the coin tends more to an EF grade with a spot or two rather than a VF coin. An Australian EF grade is also more consistent with the OP's US grade of AU.
Edited by markn
04/21/2012 7:04 pm
Pillar of the Community
Australia
1295 Posts
 Posted 04/21/2012  7:08 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add markn to your friends list
Here's a properly graded VF 1943I penny (images courtesy of Stuart Andersen Coins) so you can compare the differences. Note in particular the difference in the King's hair detail, the flatness at the top of the ear, and the roo's leg and hip :

1943-I-Penny-Broadstruck-Error
1943-I-Penny-Broadstruck-Error
Pillar of the Community
Australia
4411 Posts
 Posted 04/21/2012  7:57 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add enworb to your friends list
I find with the KGVI portrait its very hard to tell from photographs the degree of wear to the 'side burns'? to the left of the ear. When I grade these I look for that area and the detail to be only a little worn. To make EF its needs to have very little to no wear around there. The best way to tell is in hand where it can be tilted so the light can make shadows around that area.

Markn youre very good a photography of coins so do you find these the hardest obverse of Aussie coins to accurately capture? I cant get them looking nice for the life of me.
Pillar of the Community
Australia
1295 Posts
 Posted 04/21/2012  8:44 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add markn to your friends list
They are come up OK in images. I find the hardest (and most common error) is picking the difference between strike weakness and wear.
Valued Member
Australia
51 Posts
 Posted 04/22/2012  09:06 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Sovereign Debt to your friends list
There is a very useful book called "The Standard Guide to Grading British Coins" by Derek Francis Allen & published by Rotographic which publishes a number of other books to do with British coins. I ordered my copy through AbeBooks & the best price about a year ago was US$ 16.74 with free shipping from The Book Depository (Guernsey, GY, United Kingdom).

This book contains pictures of every encountered grade of all obverses & reverses of every British pre-decimal coin from 1797 to 1970. Although I have an interest in British coins & a fair representation of examples, they are not my main collecting focus. However, because we used the same T.H Paget portrait of George VI & Mary Gillick portrait of Elizabeth II on our pre-decimal coins, as well as being useful for my British coins, this book is directly relevant to the grading of equivalent Australian coins. This is especially so because the ANDA pamphlet, while an excellent description of grading, only uses George V examples.

As a review, attached are the scans for obverses of George VI to give you a taste of what is on offer & which are immediately pertinent to the current discussion.

1943-I-Penny-Broadstruck-Error
AU (about uncirculated) with bag abrasions

1943-I-Penny-Broadstruck-Error
EF (extremely fine) discolouration showing location of early wear

1943-I-Penny-Broadstruck-Error
EF (extremely fine)
All of the fine hairlines running from top to bottom of the portrait should be visible. The first place for the coin to wear tends to be the eyebrow.

1943-I-Penny-Broadstruck-Error
VF (very fine)
Many of the less pronounced hairlines will have disappeared, although those above the parting should still be visible, as well as coarse lines running from left to right above the ear.

1943-I-Penny-Broadstruck-Error
F (fine)
Signs of substantial wear on side of face, although the coarse hairlines above remain just visible.

1943-I-Penny-Broadstruck-Error
Fair (equivalent to our rather misleading VG -- very good)
Little detail still visible, even the ear is becoming less defined. Few coins wore more than that depicted here.
Pillar of the Community
Australia
4411 Posts
 Posted 04/22/2012  4:42 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add enworb to your friends list
Going by that I would go with a little better than VF for this coin but cant see EF in it.
Pillar of the Community
Australia
1295 Posts
 Posted 04/22/2012  5:55 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add markn to your friends list
A British book using British standards cannot be used to arrive at a grade using the ANDA standard any more than than the Sheldon scale can. Still and interesting book and one I'll look to purchase.
Valued Member
Australia
51 Posts
 Posted 04/22/2012  6:15 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Sovereign Debt to your friends list
with enworb
From the image presented, mmorgan22's coin seems to be a bit better than the VF example that markn posted but not as good as the EF example in my post. I also agree that it's very hard to tell from photographs the difference between strike weakness and wear so you'd really need the coin in hand to determine this.

As it is, I'd grade it as gVF but the detracting verdigris would be a bit of a worry. Of course, the fact that it's broadstruck would attract a premium & maybe bump up the price for me to a grade higher. For a 1943-I penny 2010 Macca's says VF = $6 & EF = $26 so I wouldn't pay more than $30 so a dealer's offer of $20 is probably reasonable given that he needs to make a profit.

Re markn's comment: I don't know about British standards in general but I find the photo's in D.F. Allen's book to be pretty consistent with how I'd grade coins but maybe that's just my non-professional inexperience.
Edited by Sovereign Debt
04/22/2012 6:20 pm
Pillar of the Community
Australia
1295 Posts
 Posted 04/22/2012  6:37 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add markn to your friends list
You can't use British standards to arrive at a an ANDA grade. Period. British standards are generally TOUGHER than Australian standards in a similar manner that Australian standards are tougher than US standards. There are dealers who spend a LOT of money in the the UK buying up Australian coins that are graded EF/AU to British standards which are easy UNC's here. I know this happens from first hand experience and because I've got a few coins in my own collection sourced from the UK. Futhermore, British standards allow for a coin to be graded EF based on weakness alone. Yes, a weakly struck coin that has never seen circulation can be graded EF.


Quote:
EF (extremely fine)
All of the fine hairlines running from top to bottom of the portrait should be visible. The first place for the coin to wear tends to be the eyebrow.


Where's the allowance for strike weakness in there? There isn't any. And Indian struck coins are notoriously weakly struck. For goodness sake if you use that standard to grade some UNC 1964y pennies and half pennies they'd only be graded as VF because they had no hair detail even when struck!

That book looks interesting because though, because I've never seen creditable discussion on the wear pattern of George VI coins.
Edited by markn
04/22/2012 6:40 pm
Pillar of the Community
Australia
1295 Posts
 Posted 04/22/2012  6:55 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add markn to your friends list
By the way, this is addressed to the original poster. I'd measure the diameter of your coin because I believe it's not a broadstrike. It's most likely an off-centre obverse die. A diameter of the coin will settle this.
Pillar of the Community
Australia
4411 Posts
 Posted 04/22/2012  7:48 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add enworb to your friends list
markn

Strike is something I neglected to consider which is quite amateur. Interesting to hear that the british often dont recognise strike when grading.

Also not knowing too much about errors would a broad-strike reduce the strength of the strike as the metal has slightly more room to spread out?
Valued Member
Australia
51 Posts
 Posted 04/22/2012  11:15 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Sovereign Debt to your friends list
I guess I just prefer the tougher standards. If I didn't get a significant price reduction for a weakly struck UNC, I wouldn't buy it. I'm very annoyed by the description of RAM packaged NCLT being described as UNC just because it hasn't been passed from hand to hand when there are all sorts of nicks, bag marks, dings etc. on most examples. The Queen's cheekbones especially come in for a hammering.

This might be alright for a new circulation coin obtained over the counter at a bank but not for packaged commemoratives for which we pay a hefty mark-up over face value. In fact in my opinion there is something wrong with the grading when in some instances I can get a better example of a circulation coin from the bank than one that is specially packaged.

My local coin dealer expects me to go through his entire stock searching for the best examples but at Downies they were quite shocked & seemed a little offended when I did this. However, it's a case of "if this isn't acceptable to you I can always purchase it elsewhere."

But I don't mind you classifying my coins less stringently.
Pillar of the Community
Australia
1295 Posts
 Posted 04/22/2012  11:53 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add markn to your friends list
Hi Sov,

No problem with grading your coins to a tougher (or even easier) standard. There seems to be a push on the forums here to grade to an ANDA standard and hence my reason for suggesting a British standard isn't relevant. A similar discussion was held a while back comparing the Sheldon scale (and how it is applied by PCGS in particular) and the ANDA grading standard.

I also love to go through dealers stock looking for the coin I want at the grade I am happy with rather than just accepting what is offered. It makes for a more interesting hobby but can make you very unpopular with dealers who do not like their stock picked through.

Mark
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