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 Replies: 19 / Views: 2,220 |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
5854 Posts |
Like others have said, I think using actual realized prices from places like ebay and heritage, price guides like numimedia and greysheet, and your best judgement would probably be the best way to get an estimation of price. Something I have noticed from a very limited number of MS examples is an upgrade in color seems to approximate a one point increase in grade. So for example the value of a MS-63 RB would be in the ballpark of a MS-64 BN and a MS-64 RD would be around a MS-65 RB. I haven't tested this against enough examples to know if it is any good at giving ballpark estimates so take it with a grain of salt. |
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Valued Member
 United States
450 Posts |
Thanks all, one problem with ebay is getting enough of a large sample size to feel you have an accurate price. |
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Valued Member
United States
168 Posts |
You should also keep in mind that the color designation on cents encompasses a wide variety of looks. A coin with the BN designation could be essentially blue, purple or green through to traditional copper-brown or even have areas of original mint red clinging to the devices. The eye appeal of the coin will drive the price greatly.
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Valued Member
United States
84 Posts |
I brought up this up subject to my local coin shop when I brought in a 1929 S Lincoln, that to me looked what Numismedia classified as RB (Red-brown). The guys at the shop pulled out their book and basically boiled it down to a difference between the copper contents of the IHC's and Lincolns, and that the book they used didn't have any distinctions of the red, red-brown, and brown that Numismedia has. Can anyone shed any light on this? Is Numismedia the only pricing entity that makes these distinctions? |
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Bedrock of the Community
13014 Posts |
Quote:
Is Numismedia the only pricing entity that makes these distinctions? The PCGS and NGC price guides make the distinction. I'm sure a lot of others do as well. My Red Book doesn't unless I missed it, but I suspect that has a lot more to do with saving space than anything. The TPGs also attribute it on the labels and for most things like that they do it because it does have an effect on the value |
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Valued Member
United States
84 Posts |
Guess I need to find out which guide they are using.
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Valued Member
United States
450 Posts |
Greysheet states and assumes the higher the grade the more red the coin should have.
ms 60 is brown, ms 63 red/brown and md 64 and above full red.
The numismedia website breaks them all down and the prices seem to be in line with greysheet so thanks to all for suggesting this tool. I have saved it as a favorite.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
4085 Posts |
I am cautious when there is a big price jump between grades. Yes, ICG might have graded it 64, but who's to really say whether it's a 63 or a 64? It's just one opinion. So, if it were me, I would want to pay more towards the lower end unless I felt like it was a great specimen and perhaps a 65. Just as another data point, I bought a nice 16-D in what I would grade as MS-63 RB raw on ebay for around $75. That was a really good deal (I look for a long time before I buy), but it gives you an example price. Looking at ebay completed auctions is a good idea also. Edited by KenKat
12/08/2012 1:32 pm
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1116 Posts |
KenKat you bring up a very interestig point. Personal preference plays a big part in the collecting game. So does taking the time to research a graded coin in reference to price breaking point. It really comes down to the art of negotiation. The better one is at it, the more is xaved for a better coin later on.
There is nothing wrong with hesitating to research or to thoroughly research the price points for a particular coin that you are looking for before you go shopping.
To me coin prices are always subject to negotiation, especially in the light of knowledge.
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Valued Member
United States
450 Posts |
Kenkat, I would be scared buying an older red raw cent on ebay, how does one know if it's been cleaned ? |
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Bedrock of the Community
13014 Posts |
Small scratches on it can indicate cleaning, but I dont know if theres anything you can do to restore the red besides maybe grind a layer off the surface
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Pillar of the Community
United States
4085 Posts |
Over time I have learned what to look for and can usually spot coins that have been cleaned or otherwise messed with. As I have worked my way back into the teens and twenties, I have been looking at mostly red/brown coins. Too much red or too shiny is usually just an automatic pass. It's hard to get that natural red/brown toned look with luster except naturally.
I only buy when there are good pictures, a return policy and avoid certain sellers. I probably look at 50-100 listings a day using saved searches and maybe buy 1 or 2 a month.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
4085 Posts |
Also, just to add, I don't get too worked up if a lightly cleaned coin makes it into the collection so long as it has nice eye appeal and the price was right.
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Valued Member
United States
450 Posts |
I know on Indians, it can really be difficult to tell natural Red coins from the enhanced ones LOL : (
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Valued Member
United States
110 Posts |
In my opinion, treat it as a raw coin as it is not graded by either of the two most respected grading companies. I would put more focus on what the actual coin looks like than what the holder says. The reason I say this is because the asking price would be alot more concrete if graded by NGC or PCGS. Being that its not, I would be a little harder on your own personal grading skills, especially when delineating between two mint states, and this is especially key when they jump. At least thats what I do....
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Replies: 19 / Views: 2,220 |
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Posted 12/07/2012 10:31 pm
