| Author |
 Replies: 19 / Views: 2,546 |
Page 2 of 2
|
|
|
|
Pillar of the Community
Canada
5417 Posts |
SuperDave has me convinced so I'd also say pass.
|
|
Pillar of the Community
United States
5825 Posts |
For that much money I won't go for anything that isn't in a PCGS or NGC holder.
|
|
Pillar of the Community
United States
2757 Posts |
the seller looses some credibility for saying the other coin 'could be' an 1877. Either they are ignorant and clueless about Indian cents and you shouldn't be from them or they are misleading/deceitful and you shouldn't buy from them. |
|
Pillar of the Community
United States
8520 Posts |
He states on the listing that its definitely not a 77 and has contacted every bidder and told them so. He's quite embarrassed.
Oregon coin geek.....*** GO BEAVS ! ! ! ***
|
|
Moderator
 United States
23522 Posts |
I'd take the risk on this one if I had the disposable income (and the guts) to risk; I'm 75% sure it's real. But either way I think it's a Details coin.
|
|
Pillar of the Community
1751 Posts |
Seller should throw in a bar of soap and a sponge, because whomever wins that is taking a bath.
|
|
Pillar of the Community
United States
9796 Posts |
Quote:
I don't like what I see at D_S on the obverse. Just looks like a die crack turning into a Cud to me. I see no issues with the 1909-S I'd say real, but not at that price, maybe around $370.00 or so, it is a details, cleaned coin for sure. "Buy the Book Before You Buy the Coin" - Aaron R. Feldman - "And read it" - Me 2013! ANA Life Member #3288 in good standing since 1981, ANS, Early American Coppers Member (EAC), Colonial Coin Collectors Club member (C4), Conder Token Collector Club member (CTCC), Civil War Token Society (CWTS) member, Liberty Seated Collectors Club (LSCC) & Numismatic Bibliomania Society member (NBS), USMex, Member in good standing, 2¢ variety collector. See my want page: http://goccf.com/t/140440 |
|
Moderator
United States
23522 Posts |
Westcoin, have you seen such a crack on a 1909-S before? I haven't; that's obviously not definitive but it informed my thinking.
|
|
Moderator
United States
16679 Posts |
I would pass personally. Too much risk.
Do they look good..if I had to make a decision if my life depended on it, their good.
swcoin.ecrater.com
|
|
Pillar of the Community
United States
5854 Posts |
I'm probably missing something but I was wondering why the 1909-S would get a details grade. The color looks fine to me and I don't see any damage that would warrant a details grade.
A few things that I noticed after looking at the 1909-S several times are what appear to be lumps behind the eye and in the field below the A in States and what looks like a long scratch on the rim running from about the TE in United to about the 1 in the date. I am not sure if they can be found on some genuine examples or if they are indications of a counterfeit but they do have me wondering. I may have to do a little more research.
|
|
Pillar of the Community
1751 Posts |
There is a gouge under TA of STATES in front of the forehead that runs under LIBERTY, through the back of the headband. A second gouge from just behind the eye to the hair curl in front of the ear, where it curls around the ear and continues behind.
That amount of metal disturbance will result in a net grade. The seller did a BRILLIANT job of camouflaging it, but a keen eye can spot it with ease.
|
|
Pillar of the Community
United States
5854 Posts |
Ahh, I see it now. Makes sense now why there appears to be lumps. Thanks FTB!
Edited by D0ubl3Eagle
11/14/2013 9:55 pm
|
|
Pillar of the Community
United States
9796 Posts |
agreed with FTB on the net grading and the details grade that a TPG would probably assign it. I still think it's been cleaned, not badly but it's noticeable (see the dirt and gunk in the recess, while the fields have no signs of it and appear lighter in color). I have not seen that particular die crack before, but then again, I haven't looked at a lot of 1909-S IHC's I've handled a few VF-AU coins over the years and even an UNC or too, but can't say I remember any die crack, I'll check some references. Bottom line if I want a particularly nice IHC I will contact my friend Rick Snow first then if he's out or has no suggestions, probably go to Charmy "the penny lady." Both are very respected dealers I trust on all matters of FE, IHC and LHC coins. "Buy the Book Before You Buy the Coin" - Aaron R. Feldman - "And read it" - Me 2013! ANA Life Member #3288 in good standing since 1981, ANS, Early American Coppers Member (EAC), Colonial Coin Collectors Club member (C4), Conder Token Collector Club member (CTCC), Civil War Token Society (CWTS) member, Liberty Seated Collectors Club (LSCC) & Numismatic Bibliomania Society member (NBS), USMex, Member in good standing, 2¢ variety collector. See my want page: http://goccf.com/t/140440 |
|
Pillar of the Community
United States
1662 Posts |
If you've had the patience to spend a year looking, don't settle for a coin you have doubts about.
|
|
Pillar of the Community
 United States
3283 Posts |
It wasn't so much that I planned on buying this coin, because I don't, unless it went cheap, which it won't. I'm getting to the point I hate ebay. I definitely agree the seller lost a ton of credibility trying to pass the 1877 as such (which it looks like he's backed off on). I'm getting closer to purchasing one of these and I'm trying to learn more from my great colleagues on CCF. I felt the coin was real and original (and nice), the hits on the chin being the only, albeit major, distraction. I really appreciate the comments and I hope you guys stick with me on a few others I may ask about. I think if I buy raw I'll probably buy from a coin show after checking credentials from some dealers I trust, or if one of them gets a nice coin; but I'll admit anything could happen. Once again Thank You All for the insights-Steve Edited by upstate
11/15/2013 11:23 am
|
|
Page 2 of 2
|
Replies: 19 / Views: 2,546 |
Page 2 of 2
|
First Page
Posted 11/14/2013 11:07 am
