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Camera Hates This Coin

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 Posted 01/28/2014  2:37 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Jon K to your friends list
Dave, I actually have an awesome axial lighting setup. I put that together a couple years ago, but I was never impressed with the results. Direct lighting has been the ticket.
If you think it would be indicated in this example, I can dig it out and throw it back together in just a few minutes.
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 Posted 01/28/2014  3:04 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add SsuperDdave to your friends list

Quote:
If you think it would be indicated in this example, I can dig it out and throw it back together in just a few minutes.


Awesome! Axial lighting is the go-to solution for toning. It's tough for other aspects of coin imaging, but definitely worth a shot in this case.
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 Posted 01/28/2014  5:26 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Duncan_Doenitz to your friends list
Here's my tough-to-photograph Civil War token. You initially asked how to cut through to the coin itself, and here's how sunlight picks up more of the color of the coin and not the luster.

Camera-Hates-This-Coin


This is NOT expert photography in any sense, I know it is crude and it does not really show what the coin looks like when held, so it's really a false image. In real life it is very dark and has subtle deep blue toning, but what makes it look good is the way it flashes when held and manipulated so the light picks up the flash and color changes, and that doesn't seem to translate well in a still photo.

-Duncan

Oh, I should've mentioned, the token is 135/441a. And it's below zero outside, this was taken with sunlight coming in the window.


Edited by Duncan_Doenitz
01/28/2014 5:30 pm
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 Posted 01/28/2014  5:33 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add duncanbishop24 to your friends list
Awesome token! And nice to know there is another new member named Duncan! Nice to meet you!
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 Posted 01/28/2014  5:43 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Duncan_Doenitz to your friends list
Ditto, Duncan.

I just figured out I'm DD, which seems like appropriate initials for a coin forum.

-DD
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 Posted 01/28/2014  5:51 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add SsuperDdave to your friends list
Cool! You're an RPM!
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 Posted 01/28/2014  7:07 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add duncanbishop24 to your friends list
I'm well familiar with the nickname donuts. Not even kidding you, our credit union branch manager when I started working for her this summer wrote memos and emails as "Dunkin Bishop". I was used to it though haha.
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 Posted 01/28/2014  9:18 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Jon K to your friends list
I am having trouble getting enough light on it through the axial setup. All the light that I have, still not enough.
I can open the aperture wide open, but all the detail is washed out.
If I choke it down, say to f-8, I am looking at long exposure and still it is dark. Six second exposure.
So far nothing is working, which if I remember right is why I never got very far with the axial rig in the first place.
I need more light.
Am I doing something wrong?
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 Posted 01/28/2014  10:47 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Jon K to your friends list
I am having trouble getting enough light on it through the axial setup. All the light that I have, still not enough.
I can open the aperture wide open, but all the detail is washed out.
If I choke it down, say to f-8, I am looking at long exposure and still it is dark. Six second exposure.
So far nothing is working, which if I remember right is why I never got very far with the axial rig in the first place.
I need more light.
Am I doing something wrong?
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 Posted 01/29/2014  07:14 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add austrokiwi to your friends list

Quote:
I am having trouble getting enough light on it through the axial setup. All the light that I have, still not enough.
I can open the aperture wide open, but all the detail is washed out.


It may well be your set up. With axial lighting the beam splitting glass( or perspex) is the best. Here are two photos of my axial set up. IMHO plain glass is a waste of time. Actually to take the photographs I now wonder if it might be better to put the light where I usually mount the camera and put the camera where the light usually is...and photograph the reflection of the coin. BTW janscos are inadequate for axial lighting

Camera-Hates-This-Coin


Camera-Hates-This-Coin

For those interested photo was taken with a manual focus 24mm wide angle
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 Posted 01/29/2014  08:56 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add BStrauss3 to your friends list
I'd love to see a separate thread on how you built THAT!
-----Burton
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 Posted 01/29/2014  09:18 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Jon K to your friends list
Looks like the light from "Close Encounters".
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 Posted 01/29/2014  09:31 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Jon K to your friends list
Plain glass is what I am trying to use on my axial setup. And a couple of florescent desk lamps. Nice white light from those desk lamps, but not enough to bounce off the glass with anything left over.
Until I can rebuild my axial setup with some proper components, I went back to direct lighting. Lit it from the left only, got this.
Better, but still not happy, I will keep working on it. Got plenty of time, nobody is going to buy it . . . .
Reverse looks a bit better.
Still have not had any sunlight.
Camera-Hates-This-Coin
Camera-Hates-This-Coin
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 Posted 01/29/2014  10:46 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add rmpsrpms to your friends list
This quarter looks a lot like the toned 57-D Cents that I've published images of over the last couple years. Best method I found to bring out the deep color in them was using my RSD (Ray's Super Directors) or Smile Directors attached to Jansjos. I also have good luck with the fixed Smilies that Captain Fwiffo uses. They do essentially the same thing as the Smile Directors but are not actually attached to the Jansjos. The principle is to simulate two arcs of a ringlight, with the direct reflection from the arcs just slightly outside the radius of the coin so you don't get any glare over the coin. This puts the lights as close to axial as possible without glare. It's extremely effective and brings out the deep toning colors nicely.
Contact me for photographic equipment or visit my home page at:
http://macrocoins.com
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 Posted 01/29/2014  1:47 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add westcoin to your friends list
Right now CostCo is having a sale on LED Duracell flashlights that have an adjustable focus, they throw out an amazing amount of light that is very even, you might try to use something like that. I have been using them in lieu of flash units for Polaroid photography, they put out way more light much farther than a standard flash bulb will. Plus they evenness of light with little to no hotspots make it a great light painting too in my photo bag. I imagine hitting a coin with one of them would produce enough alight to cut through the dark patina on your coin.
"Buy the Book Before You Buy the Coin" - Aaron R. Feldman - "And read it" - Me 2013!
ANA Life Member #3288 in good standing since 1981, ANS, Early American Coppers Member (EAC), Colonial Coin Collectors Club member (C4), Conder Token Collector Club member (CTCC), Civil War Token Society (CWTS) member, Liberty Seated Collectors Club (LSCC) & Numismatic Bibliomania Society member (NBS), USMex, Member in good standing, 2¢ variety collector.

See my want page: http://goccf.com/t/140440
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