Coin Community Family of Web Sites Join Thousands of Coin, Bullion, & Money Collectors
Specializing in Modern Numismatics Join Thousands of Coin, Bullion, & Money Collectors Royal Canadian Mint products, Canadian, Polish, American, and world coins and banknotes. Vancouvers #1 Coin and Paper Money Dealer 300,000 items to help build your collection! Coin, Banknote and Medal Collectors's Online Mall Royal Estate Auctions - $1 Coin Auctions








Username:
Password:
Save Password
Forgot your Password?


This page may contain links that result in small commissions to keep this free site up and running.

Welcome Guest! Registering and/or logging in will remove the anchor (bottom) ads. It's Free!

To Cert Or Not To Cert, What Is The Threshold?

To participate in the forum you must log in or register.
First Page  Showing last 15 replies.
Author Previous TopicReplies: 19 / Views: 2,931Next Topic Page 2 of 2
Pillar of the Community
968 Posts
 Posted 05/18/2014  7:26 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add chasingtailbar to your friends list
My formula is basically me estimating what I can sell it for out of the slab and what I can sell it for in the slab. If the difference is greater than the cost of slabbing, I send it in. Generally, I submit any shot 65 common date Morgans, rainbow toners, or PCGS Major Varieties.

I'll give you an example... I bought a '90-CC Tailbar, raw for $110. Listed it on ebay, best offer I got was $125 after fees. Declined it. Sent it in for grading ($21) then to CAC ($12), creating a cost position of $143. I sold it to a dealer for $165. So by spending the extra money, I raised my profit percentage from 12% to 13.34%. So I basically make judgement calls with all the coins I own and try to figure out what the most effective way to sell it is. The time it takes to roll over a coin doesn't matter much to me, but if I had to take that into account, I would probably do less grading due to time constraints.

PS I stopped overpaying for low-grade tailbars, don't worry... My next batch has an average cost basis of about $85 a coin and has 1 XF Details, 2 VF, and a F. Margin will be much higher.
Edited by chasingtailbar
05/18/2014 7:32 pm
Pillar of the Community
United States
4883 Posts
 Posted 05/18/2014  7:59 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Lucky Cuss to your friends list
It's not always a matter of potential grade, or even a hardnosed economic calculus. Generally virtually anything offered through a major auction house won't be catalogued raw anymore, and certain issues that are notoriously faked now almost have to be certified for resale, whether online or otherwise.
Colligo ergo sum
Pillar of the Community
United States
2757 Posts
 Posted 05/18/2014  8:18 pm  Show Profile   Check robbudo's eBay Listings Bookmark this reply Add robbudo to your friends list
i slabbed a dozen or so error coins early in my collecting as a way to be 100% sure about the authenticity of the errors. some of the error coins were only worth $10 to begin with. Of course this was a special case, but it was worth the slabbing $ as part of the learning process.
Pillar of the Community
861 Posts
 Posted 05/18/2014  9:15 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add g048406 to your friends list
My rule of thumb is $300+, unless it's gold bullion.
Pillar of the Community
United States
4337 Posts
 Posted 05/18/2014  9:19 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add dsfreeworld to your friends list
slab anything gold that is not just cull or melt unless it is an obvious super rarity in the gold series
slab anything that is considered a rarity in the hobby with regards to Year, MM and Grade, i.e., slab an 1844 VF dime, do not slab a 1944 MS63 dime

These are the rules I govern myself by
Pillar of the Community
Canada
5417 Posts
 Posted 05/18/2014  10:14 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add zxcccxz to your friends list
In my opinion, unless your coin is an absolute rarity, you're certifying it to preserve the coin, the surfaces, the luster and the eye-appeal. You can get a fairly good idea of your coin's grade and value through out in-house experts on CCF.
Also, unless you're really inclined to, try not to certify a coin that has an original value under $200.
I could spell everything out for you but there are just so many of these thread and these questions have been answered so many times, over and over again. Just search through past topics. Good luck.
Pillar of the Community
968 Posts
 Posted 05/19/2014  05:56 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add chasingtailbar to your friends list

Quote:
Also, unless you're really inclined to, try not to certify a coin that has an original value under $200.

I disagree with blanket statements like this... Let's say you have an '80-S Morgan, probably a 64, maybe prooflike. In an auction, it'll sell for, raw, $75-$85. Slabbed, $125. Is it worth spending the extra $20 to get it slabbed if it will generate an extra $40-$50 in revenue?
Edited by chasingtailbar
05/19/2014 05:56 am
Bedrock of the Community
United States
17884 Posts
 Posted 05/19/2014  08:49 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Conder101 to your friends list

Quote:
In an auction, it'll sell for, raw, $75-$85. Slabbed, $125. Is it worth spending the extra $20 to get it slabbed if it will generate an extra $40-$50 in revenue?

$20 to get it slabbed? That just covers the grading and invoice fee. With shipping and insurance both ways it will be closer to $30 to $50 to get it slabbed. So you are sinking an extra $30 to $50 to generate and extra $40 to $50. So no I don't think it is worth it.
Pillar of the Community
United States
5825 Posts
 Posted 05/19/2014  09:14 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add kanga to your friends list

Quote:



Posted Today 19 Min ago Show Profile Email Poster Bookmark this reply Add Conder101 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply



Quote:
In an auction, it'll sell for, raw, $75-$85. Slabbed, $125. Is it worth spending the extra $20 to get it slabbed if it will generate an extra $40-$50 in revenue?

$20 to get it slabbed? That just covers the grading and invoice fee. With shipping and insurance both ways it will be closer to $30 to $50 to get it slabbed. So you are sinking an extra $30 to $50 to generate and extra $40 to $50. So no I don't think it is worth it.


Agreed.
That's why I specified that you HAVE to take into account S&H (which includes Registered mail and insurance).
Bedrock of the Community
United States
20753 Posts
 Posted 05/19/2014  5:48 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add just carl to your friends list
I have no slabs. I would never send a coin to be slabbed. Not even if worth thousands. All my coins go into Albums.
Even this one I broke out of a slab. Just have to have coins freeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee.

To-Cert-Or-Not-To-Cert,-What-Is-The-Threshold?
Pillar of the Community
968 Posts
 Posted 05/19/2014  6:14 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add chasingtailbar to your friends list

Quote:
$20 to get it slabbed? That just covers the grading and invoice fee. With shipping and insurance both ways it will be closer to $30 to $50 to get it slabbed. So you are sinking an extra $30 to $50 to generate and extra $40 to $50. So no I don't think it is worth it.

Economy submissions are $20 a coin plus shipping charges... I usually hold until I am sending 15-20 coins. I just used the online submission form to see what 20 1881-S in 65 would cost for grading, declared total value of $3k ($150 ea, 65 money) and it comes out to $441. $22.05 per coin. Factor in $20 shipping (registered, insured) to PCGS, that's $23.30 per coin. If I'm submitting raw 64 and 65's, I lose a little on the 64's, but the real money is in the 65's... so let's say I paid $55 ea (reasonable) I am basically breaking even on the 64's and making $70 ea on the 65's. If I happen to catch a 66, that's another hundred or so in profit.

When I have done subs like that in the past, my 65 hit rate has been about 70%, meaning I get 14 65's for every 20 I submit. So that would make my cost basis per coin $78.30. Profits expected would be as follows;

64; -$10 per coin
65; +$72 per coin

With my hit rate, that means 1 65 covers my losses on the 64's, and the other 13 are profit at $72 ea, or $936 profit. If you can't grade, of course, I wouldn't bother since you're basically just throwing money away, but if you know what you're doing, buying, slabbing and reselling is easy money.

If you're paying $50 to get a coin slabbed, you're getting ripped off, or submitting some expensive material. Try finding somebody else who is willing to let you piggyback your coins on their submission... many are, it saves all parties a few bucks on shipping and handling charges.
Edited by chasingtailbar
05/19/2014 6:31 pm
Pillar of the Community
United States
500 Posts
 Posted 05/20/2014  11:22 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add BuffalosRock to your friends list

Quote:
I bought a '90-CC Tailbar, raw for $110. Listed it on ebay, best offer I got was $125 after fees. Declined it. Sent it in for grading ($21) then to CAC ($12), creating a cost position of $143. I sold it to a dealer for $165.


tailbar,
I see you amended the grading "cost" to $23.3 with s&h as you save up and send 15-20 in at a time. So that is at least $2.3 less in actual profit.

I would have sold for the net $125 and taken the $15 profit rather than spend all the time and extra $ to get it graded AND cac-ed both - IMO you are understating at $23.3/coin and didn't factor the s&h into the $12 CAC cost either. So your profit wasn't $22 after grading and IMO you wasted a lot of time and extra $ for what probably ended up netting the same $15 or so profit in actuality.

I would need a lot more than $7 more to make all that hassle worth it - if you had even made that much more per coin.

I am 95% collector and 5% seller ( to upgrade principally ), but I would want to realize a decent profit margin per coin in order to justify all the packaging and sending etc. My time is not that cheap! $50/coin AFTER ACTUAL COSTS would be my minimum. So I probably wouldn't bother with anything that is lower than $300 or that I didn't buy at a major bargain - as well - to make it worth it.

JMHO
Pillar of the Community
968 Posts
 Posted 05/20/2014  2:37 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add chasingtailbar to your friends list
You're right about the CAC fee, but I didn't pay shipping since my in-laws live nearby. At any rate, like I said, I overpaid for that coin, so not really a good example, plus I feel PCGS missed the mark on the grade, it was a solid F15 imho.

Let's take a coin from my current submission; a '99-S Morgan. Cost basis is $55. Grade is, imho, at least 63. I put it up and was offered $300 as a BIN, before fees and shipping. Declined it. If it comes back 63 or lower, it's going to CAC... so $23 (grading, yes it's econ) +$12 (CAC) is a cost basis of $90. I fully expect it would bean at 63 and I could flip it quick to a dealer for $525 or so.

So...

Raw=$300-10% fees=$270-$55=$215 profit.
Graded=$525-$55-$23-$12= $435 profit.


Or perhaps another tailbar I paid $95 for, this one probably a VF25... Best offer I had on it was $150.

Raw=$150-10% fees=$135-$95=$40 profit
Graded=$250-$95-$23-$12= $120 profit
Valued Member
United States
55 Posts
 Posted 05/22/2014  8:11 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add fasttalker27 to your friends list
I have never slabbed a coin based solely on its value. If it is a VAM or another rarity, or I want to have it authenticated, then yes, I would.
Pillar of the Community
United Kingdom
2133 Posts
 Posted 05/30/2014  3:02 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Pertinax to your friends list
chasingtailbar,
I don't understand your 99S Morgan example.

http://www.numismedia.com/fmv/price...ices61.shtml lists $534 for MS63

http://www.ngccoin.com/price-guide/...ig-ms-page-4 lists $525 for MS63

If a dealer can sell it for say $530 why on earth would they pay $525 for it ?
If you can sell at retail to a dealer, sell him everything, buy elsewhere until he runs out of money or the bank forecloses.

I really can't see how a raw MS63 can be worth significantly less than a slabbed MS63; especially to a dealer who can presumably grade raw coins.

Please explain.
Page 2 of 2   Previous TopicReplies: 19 / Views: 2,931Next Topic Page 2 of 2
First Page  Showing last 15 replies.
To participate in the forum you must log in or register.


    




Disclaimer: While a tremendous amount of effort goes into ensuring the accuracy of the information contained in this site, Coin Community assumes no liability for errors. Copyright 2005 - 2026 Coin Community Family- all rights reserved worldwide. Use of any images or content on this website without prior written permission of Coin Community or the original lender is strictly prohibited.
Contact Us  |  Advertise Here  |  Privacy Policy / Terms of Use

Coin Community Forum © 2005 - 2026 Coin Community Forums
It took 0.32 seconds to rattle this change. Forums