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Cleaning Silver & Gold/Silver Japanese Coins

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First Page  Showing last 15 replies.
Author Previous TopicReplies: 19 / Views: 3,919Next Topic Page 2 of 2
Pillar of the Community
Korea, Republic Of
1881 Posts
 Posted 10/10/2014  01:11 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Matteproof to your friends list
Nope, no cleaning needed on those. Or any other coins.
Valued Member
United States
185 Posts
 Posted 10/10/2014  01:14 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add packrat1 to your friends list
Thanks for the info guys. I'll never clean a coin.
Pillar of the Community
Korea, Republic Of
1881 Posts
 Posted 10/10/2014  01:20 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Matteproof to your friends list
....there are exceptions though, like for ancient coins. You will need to clean them in most cases to see what's under the thick crud. Also coins that have excessive dirt/crud.
Valued Member
United States
167 Posts
 Posted 10/10/2014  01:21 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Mullen to your friends list
Agreed about exceptions like ancients.
Valued Member
United States
185 Posts
 Posted 10/10/2014  01:46 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add packrat1 to your friends list
If I get any coins that look if they are on the cleaning side, I'll post them here to get advice before doing anything.
Bedrock of the Community
Australia
21788 Posts
 Posted 10/10/2014  02:57 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add sel_69l to your friends list
The 2 Bu looks to be VERY pale, much more so than mine. In the picture, it looks like patinated silver.
I can understand why the thought of cleaning it arose.
Other than that, it certainly LOOKS OK.

I would have it weighed to check for authenticity.
You may try bending it slightly so see if it's made from a lead or lead alloy. I have to admit, I was once fooled with a lead coin. ONLY once!
I still have to agree with everybody's advice:
"Don't clean coins".

Perhaps try acetone, but I think that the result will be no difference.
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United States
56855 Posts
 Posted 10/10/2014  05:13 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add John1 to your friends list
packrat1,
They look great as is,do not clean them. Just wondering where you got them and what they cost you.
John1
Valued Member
United States
185 Posts
 Posted 10/12/2014  8:57 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add packrat1 to your friends list
I just bought a digital scale from ebay & it came this week so I now able to weigh coins.

2 Bu - 3.1g / 20mm (the gold % is 22.3 not 22.9&)
1 Bu - 8.6g - 23mm

I bought these years ago from ebay & I think I gave around $30 - $35 for 2 Bu & around 20 for the 1 Bu. It's been awhile so I'm not 100% sure on the prices.
Pillar of the Community
3772 Posts
 Posted 10/12/2014  9:05 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Medieval to your friends list
'packrat1' - first of all congratulations for your of 50 posts.

Two comments to your topic:

1. Never clean coins if not necessary (whatever 'necessary' means in the particular case).
2. When posting pictures, post both sides - it's a good habit.

Having said that, your coins look just fine as they are.
Valued Member
United States
185 Posts
 Posted 10/12/2014  9:22 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add packrat1 to your friends list
I finally made 50 post. Thanks for the congratulations.

Sorry for not posting both sides of the coins. I was giving an example of what the coins looked liked & why I wanted to clean them.

To make up for my wrong.


Cleaning-Silver-&-Gold/Silver-Japanese-Coins
Pillar of the Community
Australia
3831 Posts
 Posted 10/12/2014  9:37 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add gxseries to your friends list
They look ok as it is. Nothing wrong with them.

As for authenticity, they also look fine with me. The so called 'gold' coin is just very low in gold content and therefore looks a bit more grey. I reckon it's just photo / light angle which makes them look quite pale in color.
My partial coin collection http://www.omnicoin.com/collection/gxseries
My numismatics articles and collection: http://www.gxseries.com/numis/numis_index.htm
Regularly updated at least once a month.
Pillar of the Community
3772 Posts
 Posted 10/12/2014  9:39 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Medieval to your friends list
Nothing wrong with posting only one side but in most cases it is beneficial to show both sides - either for the beauty of seeing both sides of the coin or to provide a proper judgement. Was not meant as a criticism but rather a recommendation.
(When you look at my topic on official countermarks, I have shown several times only one side because the other side was not important to the countermark [and had nothing else going for it].)
Valued Member
United States
185 Posts
 Posted 10/13/2014  12:26 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add packrat1 to your friends list
sel_69l's. Didn't know how else to get hold of you.

Do you still have the lead coin you got? I would love to see a picture of it.
Bedrock of the Community
Australia
21788 Posts
 Posted 10/13/2014  11:09 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add sel_69l to your friends list
The lead coin I HAD was acquired many years ago.

It was a fake ancient denarius of Julia Paula, bought from a dealer in the U.K.
I didn't check it for authenticity, and it was revealed to me by a Sydney dealer, by bending it with his fingers.
I thereupon gave it to him, to add it to his reference fake ancient collection.

Occasionally, I will test a suspect freshly made lead coin by bending it. No loss in value if you damage a fake coin, and a genuine coin will stand up easily to this simple test, so no loss either way.

Sometimes the alloy is of pewter or lead / tin, and they are a little harder to bend, but they stay brighter for longer.

There is no problem from this viewpoint in this case, however.
Valued Member
United States
185 Posts
 Posted 10/14/2014  12:50 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add packrat1 to your friends list
I only collect Japanese coins (older ones at this time) & also fakes. I have some fake 100 Mons & a copper 1 Bu & a bronze 1 Bu. Was curious what a fake lead coin looked like.
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