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 Replies: 19 / Views: 3,969 |
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Rest in Peace
United States
7075 Posts |
I started out doing that and switched to Saflips. I use the little cards that go into the back pocket to include all the obvious information on the front. On the back of the card, I write where, when, from whom I bought it and what I paid, or, if it was a gift, the approximate value.
I only list the purchase prices and approximate values to assist anybody who might get stuck having to go through my stuff someday.
I'm still trying to come up with a decent system for the slabbed coins.
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New Member
United States
17 Posts |
I use an old typewriter and type the country on top left, date on top right and denomination under the window, then put the coin in the holder.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1295 Posts |
I almost always label my flips like the diagram below.  Edited by Rollsearcher37
12/14/2014 3:24 pm
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Pillar of the Community
United States
8137 Posts |
top left-date
under date- mintmark (if any)
bottom right- special notes (variety, silver content, etc.)
On the back there is a check mark with a date next to it. The date is the day the coin was cataloged into my spreadsheet I use for records.
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Pillar of the Community
3772 Posts |
Line on top for the place of origin, ie country/state/city etc.
Below left, ruler and time of reign if applicable.
To the right denomination, potentially with date and mintmark below.
Bottom at left attribution(s) including minting period if applicable.
At right mint if known and other relevant information like weight if needed.
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
1215 Posts |
I thought by ruler, you mean a measuring implement.  |
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Valued Member
New Zealand
72 Posts |
I use 2x2s for all the predecimals that dig up while detecting, top left is country, top right is date, bottom left is location dug and bottom right is date dug.
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Moderator
 Australia
16831 Posts |
As a world coin collector, "Country" is most important, therefore that goes on top. On the front: Top row: country Second row: denomination and date Third row: mintmark and/or date/translation Below the window: variety or error if applicable On the back: Top: catalogue reference number and Sap Number Bottom: date acquired and where acquired from. Quote:
I like putting the amount I paid for the coin on the 2x2 also. I keep that info in the database, but not always on the 2x2 itself. If disrespectors of property are of concern to you, you might want to consider encoding or omitting that information. Why give thieves a heads-up about which coins are the valuable ones? Don't say "infinitely" when you mean "very"; otherwise, you'll have no word left when you want to talk about something really infinite. - C. S. Lewis
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Pillar of the Community
Canada
4227 Posts |
Quote:
I keep that info in the database, but not always on the 2x2 itself. If disrespectors of property are of concern to you, you might want to consider encoding or omitting that information. Why give thieves a heads-up about which coins are the valuable ones? I keep TPG costs in my database, but put the cost of coins in flips on my 2x2s on the back - encoded. |
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Valued Member
United States
125 Posts |
I try to keep mine as simple as possible. For US coins, denomination at top left and year/mintmark at top right. For foreign coins, country at top left, year/mintmark at top right, and denomination across the bottom. |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1215 Posts |
Nobody puts grade on the 2x2?
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1215 Posts |
Quote:
- encoded. How do you encode your prices? |
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Pillar of the Community
Canada
4227 Posts |
Quote:
How do you encode your prices? I use a letter system - different letters representing the numbers 0-9 plus P for the decimal. It's two five letter names actually to make it easy to remember. I've used this system since the late '80s, so it's cool to know what I paid for coins that have been in my collection for a while. |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1314 Posts |
Date and mint go on top obverse. Reverse gets an Avery Label #05422. 1/2" by 1 3/4". I write small and include date, mint, TPGgrade, VAM # (die variation), interest #, rarity #, registry score, vendor, date and purchase price. note grade and score only apply to TPG slabs. Easily removed for updates, or infrequently a sale. The Snap Tite is the same size as a cardboard 2x2 but is used if I am going to remove it frequently for study or photography.  |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
8516 Posts |
Quote:
I keep that info in the database, but not always on the 2x2 itself. If disrespectors of property are of concern to you, you might want to consider encoding or omitting that information. Why give thieves a heads-up about which coins are the valuable ones? I can't imagine a thief taking the time to go through hundreds of 2x2's to look for higher values. Just not gonna happen. Well, that and the fact I have a big Fort Knox safe. Oregon coin geek.....*** GO BEAVS ! ! ! ***
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Replies: 19 / Views: 3,969 |
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Posted 12/14/2014 3:17 pm
