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 Replies: 20 / Views: 3,323 |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1512 Posts |
@TheForce - No they are not usually air tight. That is why I prefer to crack out my slabbed coins and put them in my albums. At least that way I can see them and admire them easier.
Edited by matttheriley
03/25/2015 12:48 pm
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
4870 Posts |
It would be a dilemma for me paying high dollar for a graded coin only to remove the coin. But I could see it happening though as long as its not rare or anything. Do the coins rattle in the slab?
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
12437 Posts |
Most slabs tightly secure the coins so they do not rattle although you may see some rotation. The exception is an early generation PCGS holder affectionately known as the "rattler holder" so named because of rattling coins.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
2543 Posts |
Actually there are different guidelines (aside from the general buying slabs guidelines) that pertain to each series. Such as, if you are buying modern silver, anything below a 69 is not worth a premium.
What kind of coins are you interested in ?
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Pillar of the Community
United States
4870 Posts |
Quote:
What kind of coins are you interested in ? I mainly collect Canadian coins. But I have been thinking about buying sometime this year a PCGS 1976 Bicentennial silver quarter as that's my birth year. |
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Moderator
 United States
23522 Posts |
Even the Proofs are available for less than $10 on ebay. Not sure how to justify the cost of a slab - for you, everything over $15 is payment for the plastic only. |
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Moderator
United States
56855 Posts |
Edited by John1
03/25/2015 4:54 pm
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
20753 Posts |
In most instances a slabbed coin is possibly safe to purchase. There have been several cases of counterfeited slabbed coins too. Also, fake coins have been put in slabs but usually from a company not to well known. One dealer showed me a slab he had opened, changed the coin inside and I couldn't tell where it was opened.
In other words a slabbed coin is a lot more safe than a not slabbed coin, maybe, possibly or just might be OK to buy.
My suggestion is to only purchase coins of high value in a slab. Not full proof but a lot safer than raw.
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Moderator
Australia
16868 Posts |
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I think you can check their web site by the number on the slab to see if it is legit. This actually isn't all that much of a security boost. Only the laziest slab counterfeiters wouldn't copy a legitimate certification number. Quote:
There have been several cases of counterfeited slabbed coins too. More than "several", there are tens of thousands of them out there, and more arriving from China by the day. They typically target the older dollar-sized coins and modern bullion pieces, and typically don't copy cheap coins like what you're after, so you "should be safe"... this is, of course, exactly what they want us to think. "Don't buy coins from China" is of course always good advice, but there's not much you can do about the other people who buy fake slabs from China (whether they know they are fake or not) and then on-sell locally. Quote:
These slabs aren't air-tite though right?
No they are not usually air tight.You'll find very litle in this world that qualifies as truly "air-tight". Things such as slabs are perhaps better called "air-resistant". A slab is more air-resistant than, say, a stapled 2x2. Don't say "infinitely" when you mean "very"; otherwise, you'll have no word left when you want to talk about something really infinite. - C. S. Lewis
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Pillar of the Community
United States
2543 Posts |
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But I have been thinking about buying sometime this year a PCGS 1976 Bicentennial silver quarter as that's my birth year. If it is the 1976 quarter your look at, slabbed is no the way to go. The clad versions didn't grade very well, as happens with most business strikes. I think that there were only 6 that graded above MS67. I recently saw a clad MS65 go for $30 at auction and a MS67 go for close to $100. I was thinking seriously, for a coin with a total mintage of 1.6 billion? That is why I said, guidelines are different for different coins. If 1976 coins are what you want, consider the Bicentennial silver set. Which includes the quarter dime and Ike, in 40% silver and a nice OGP for about $15-$20. Much better than an overpriced, overvalued slab. At least for this coin. |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
4870 Posts |
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
5828 Posts |
Speaking of slabed coins, I just bought my first one: A proof nebraska quarter graded PR-69 by PCGS!
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Valued Member
United States
243 Posts |
Be sure to check the Cert Verification page before buying. That's to ensure you don't have a fake slag.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
4883 Posts |
Quote:
Be sure to check the Cert Verification page before buying. That's to ensure you don't have a fake slag.
Many (if not most) counterfeit slabs will now have a certification number that will come back to the correct issue in the stated grade. What may still tip you off to the forgery is if the lookup shows that the coin is supposed to be part of a registry set or has been recently sold in an auction. Colligo ergo sum
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1795 Posts |
Much good information has been given ...now I will add my 2 cents worth. Since 1976 is you birth year get a Silver Bi-Centenial graded at least MS69 you deserve that! Now as far as buying slabs they at least guarantee they are what they say they are especially when buying gold. As far as breaking them out...hmmmm that is one's personal decision...myself I don't but I only collect slabbed coins in my Commemorative collection.
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Replies: 20 / Views: 3,323 |
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First Page
Posted 03/25/2015 1:17 pm
