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 Replies: 23 / Views: 7,815 |
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Bedrock of the Community
Australia
21786 Posts |
The same methods for successfully preserving the condition of red uncirculated bronze coins over decades,
can be used for high grade zinc coated steel cents.
I use cardboard / Mylar 2x2's in non PVC album pages.
Slabs and capsules are obviously OK.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1132 Posts |
One of the dealers @ the LCS was looking through my 7100 & saw a pristine D&S next to a shabble of a "P". He (I kid you not) 1) Grimaced 2) opened a desk drawer 3) pulled out a tube of 1943 UNC P's 4) swapped them 5)Gave me the album back. I asked him the charge & he said he was doing society a service by ridding my album of that ugly coin.  Fact is often stranger than fiction. I couldn't make this stuff up of I tried. |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
932 Posts |
I just leave mine be... Is that bad?
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Bedrock of the Community
 United States
12817 Posts |
Quote:
I asked him the charge & he said he was doing society a service by ridding my album of that ugly coin. hahaha! Quote:
I just leave mine be... Is that bad? Not even remotely bad. Collect how you like. |
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New Member
United States
1 Posts |
From a retired Mechanic........They are "Steel" - put some lite weight oil on them, 3 in 1 oil, Gun lube oil, even penetrating oil would help. Just a lite coat. Dab them with a paper towel if you get too much on them.
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Moderator
 United States
188130 Posts |
 to the Community, libcap! |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1791 Posts |
There are waxes for coins but as many have said they aren't needed. For fun I put Renaissance Wax I got many years ago on one side of a dateless Buffalo nickel yesterday. It does enhance the sheen a little bit but the side with the wax has a plastic-like feel to it when compared to the other side. |
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New Member
United States
3 Posts |
Recently, I acquired a batch of neglected 1943 Steel cents, mostly P's with a few D's and S's thrown in. They arrived in a sorry state, haphazardly stored in a ziplock bag, showing signs of decay. Determined to revive them, I decided to try CLR lime and rust remover. After soaking a couple of coins and closely monitoring the process, I was delighted with the outcome—a clean coin free from rust. To preserve the steel surface and prevent further deterioration, I applied a drop of 3in1 oil, ensuring thorough coverage.
Reflecting on the restoration process, I found myself wishing I had a YouTube channel to document the transformation. Currently, I'm about 80% through restoring the remaining coins. It's worth noting that the extent of restoration varies depending on the level of rust. Coins with minor surface rust now gleam like new, while those with deeper corrosion, though salvaged, bear the marks of their battle with the rust .
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Moderator
United States
188130 Posts |
to the Community, Spook67! |
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Moderator
United States
95517 Posts |
@Spook - Can you provide a 'before' and 'after' image of your process?
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
19942 Posts |
Probably best to start a new thread, this one is ancient. I suspect it will gain posts quickly. Nothing like another coin cleaning thread on CC!  Edited by BadThad
03/26/2024 7:31 pm
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
25102 Posts |
CLR contains lactic acid, L-gluconic acid, lauramine oxide, and tripropylene glycol n-butyl ether. I may give it a shot on some crusty old steelies just to see what happens.
Inordinately fascinated by bits of metal with strange markings and figures
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New Member
United States
3 Posts |
I went back to my two cups of steel cents. The one on the left has what I believe related to zinc oxidation, the cup in the right is mostly rust. Pic 1 is the before front and back. The top row is the zinc oxidation, and the bottom is rust. I selected P, D, S from each type...just because. Pic 2 is the after pics. The two pics of the coins in the green solution show the cleaning action. NOTE--Rust will not bubble, the Zinc oxidation does. When the bubbling slows, you may have to scrub with a Q-Tip and resoak. I did one more steel cent with more rust, separately depicted. Upon extracting from the CLR bath, they are scrubbed with a Q-Tip, edges cleaned and then rinsed in water. One dried, rubbed in 3in1 oil and wiped dry. Most coins, IMO, can be left as is, but the 43 steel cents, minted in the billions, being consumed by rust will eventually succumb to crumbling dust. And no one wants cancerous rusty coins next to other healthily clean coins. Take away, vaccinate your rusty coins! Disclaimer. Cleaning coins is bad. I will likely be summoned to appear before the Numismatic Court and have to answer for my crimes.       |
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New Member
United States
3 Posts |
Also, sorry about reviving an old thread. Google got me here. I was not a member until now and my intension was to answer the original thread's premise.
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Moderator
United States
188130 Posts |
Quote:
Also, sorry about reviving an old thread. Google got me here. I was not a member until now and my intension was to answer the original thread's premise. No problem.  We would have split it out into its own if it were really necessary.  |
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First Page
Posted 09/09/2015 11:11 pm
