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Replies: 23 / Views: 3,234 |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
3327 Posts |
Since not all prices follow a linear progression, it might be helpful to plot price vs grade on a graph and use that for your estimate. You could also use this to see outliers. Fun anyway  
"Nummi rari mira sunt, si sumptus ferre potes." - Christophorus filius Scotiae
Edited by Bump111 01/16/2018 09:48 am
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CCF Advertiser
United States
1533 Posts |
Its nowhere near linear. VF-30 coins trade slightly above VF-20 money and VF-35 coins more, but still some percentage relative to VF money. When there is a big jump in price between VF and XF money, the coin will have to be XF-45 to get the XF money.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1370 Posts |
The president of our local coin club gave me a rule of thumb when he purchases coins that are in between grades. He said typically 15% to 30% higher on the in between VF grades and about 25% at XF 45. Granted this is a generalization, but if you look at auction prices realized its pretty close.
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Valued Member
New Zealand
148 Posts |
I think something needs to be said about coins with exceptional eye appeal. For example, you may be able to find plenty of XF 1840 Braided Hair LCs at RedBook (for example) prices but you won't be able to touch a prime, well-struck coin of the same date and grade at that price level. It works the other way, as well, of course. The dinged up XF coin (that will still straight grade) will sell for less than price guide.
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
94367 Posts |
Agree with numismedia.com and ebay results. Premium eye-coins are worth premium prices, grading aside.  to the CCF!
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Moderator
 United States
188952 Posts |
Quote: Premium eye-coins are worth premium prices, grading aside. Truth. I am willing to pay more for a coin that has a lower grade, but superior eye appeal.
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Rest in Peace
United States
17900 Posts |
Aoraki has made the most sense, thus far. To begin with, there are enough grades in the Sheldon system that the number of in between coins are marginal, at best. A coin is graded by all three sides resulting in a single number the vast majority of the time. No matter what price guide you use, with the exception of recent results at auction or on ebay with comparisons for both grade and eye appeal, any other guide can only give one part of a two part equation. That being: Technical Grade +/- Eye Appeal = Value. Make it simple. Pick any coin that sells regularly in a relatively easy technical grade. In other words coins that sell fairly frequently. Go to Heritage and check sold prices. For the same technical grade you will find huge ranges in value because of the eye appeal factor. Also notice that Heritage lists something like 10 different price guides on almost every coin. Why go to all the different places when you get all the prices right next to each other? Price is a sharp hook only.
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Moderator
 United States
188952 Posts |
Excellent post, moxking. 
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Pillar of the Community
United States
6370 Posts |
Or the old coin shop way (true story!)
Oh your coin is graded VF-25. It is not that much better than a VF-20. Thus it is a VF-20. I will offer 60% of VF-20 bid.
The coin was an 1814 large cent.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1409 Posts |
Another vote for recently completed ebay auctions and numismedia. Eye appeal is also VERY important to me for my personal collection. I almost never pick up a coin with a plan to flip it, so it has to be one I want in my collection.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
8715 Posts |
Numismedia + completed ebay auctions is all you really need.
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Valued Member
United States
149 Posts |
I agree with Moxking - I always go to Heritage. They have a lot of resources available. If I can't find a coin on Heritage, I look at NGC's coin explorer, not for their value, but because they list a variety of auction prices for each grade.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
591 Posts |
great topic, something I think about often. A couple of thoughts. For one, since I do a lot of data analysis as part of my job, using microsoft excel all the time, making a simple graph from your favorite price guide could help. I quickly made this one for some semi-key Mercury dimes. Sheldon scale on the x-axis, 2018 blue book price guide values on the y-axis. you can specify straight or curved lines, etc.  In addition to online resources for prices like numismedia and usa coin book, I like the "auction prices realized" at PCGS (others mentioned heritage and NGC): https://www.PCGS.com/auctionprices/You can tabulate in excel, calculate average, median, and graph these too. I usually knock of around $25 if I'm buying a raw coin vs. slabbed. i totally agree about eye appeal effecting the grade too. you can just go by the PCGS photograde utility (app or online) but grading is often said to be an "art" as much as a "science", and pleasant toning, "originality", and other considerations all come into play when determining valuation - some of these are obviously subjective.
Edited by one_fine_dime 01/24/2018 07:24 am
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Pillar of the Community
United States
2917 Posts |
Price guides can vary a lot in their pricing. Completed sales on ebay, Amazon, etc are the best indicator to me of that a coin is worth. Split grades are indeed problematic and same for MS coins. Look at the 1933 Lincoln in MS in any proce guide for example. VERY steep jump from 63 to 64. In some cases, you have an almost straight "arithmetic" type of growth, while in others, it is more "geometric." Coins that were widely hoarded (i.e: 1909 VDB Lincoln, 1950-D Jefferson) don't have a lot of variance grade to grade.
CRH Nickeloholic. 1,600,000 nickels searched in eight years! Have found FOUR complete Jefferson sets!
Edited by John77 01/24/2018 11:40 am
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Pillar of the Community
United States
655 Posts |
Josh, this is what you can do for split grades pricing. For the example you gave of the 1905-O qtr, F12 $77 and VF-20 $198. There are 8 pts of difference between grades and $121. So, each pt difference is $15.13 (121/8). For an F-15, it would then be $77 + 45.39 ($15.13 * 3) = $122.39. Not too far off the $125 you spent. So, you did fine.
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