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Replies: 27 / Views: 3,861 |
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Valued Member
United States
202 Posts |
My advise would be look for things like returns and guaruntees. I now don't purchase from a coin seller unless they have at least something like a 7 day grace period where you can inspect the coin and return if neccesary. No, shipping is not paid for by the seller but if it is a more expensive coin then I would look for these return details. The best one that I have seen is 30 days no questions asked returns.
Something else is I would try to steer clear from the sellers that sell in lots and it is a flat rate for a certain coin but you don't really know what the coin looks like or what date it is. For this there really isn't a whole lot of recoil on the seller because normally in the description is says something along the lines of no guaruntee or what-not. Hope I could help.
cabomhn
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1267 Posts |
Great advise everyone.  Know who you're dealing with #1 and check the return policy #2. Ben
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Valued Member
United States
429 Posts |
A couple more items: 1. Make sure they offer insurance. A lot of people add $5.00 for S&H and then put a single stamp on a cheap envelope and hope it gets there. A true collector will want the coin to get there and keep you happy. 2. Buy coins from sellers in your country. Sometimes the S&H can kill you and there are a lot less chances of someone taking advantage of you. Do NOT buy coins from China or other countries nearby with all the counterfeit 'coins' that are going around. 3. Research. Look into the things you are wanting to buy, this will help you get a better understanding of what you want and need. 4. Multiple bids. Find a coin you want and find multiple auctions of the same thing so your chances are better of getting at least one. 5. Mis-labeling. Find the items that people do not list properly and try to jump on these when you can. There actually are a few people that have no idea what they have and trying get a few bucks from it, these are the items you can clean up on. 7. PCGS or not PCGS. If someone quotes PCGS as the price of the coins then run. They usually slab their own coins and drag new collectors into the mix by thinking they are getting a great deal. If they really had $10,000 in coins, they would not let them go for $20. 6. Learn from mistakes. We all make them and learn from them. From the few threads you have started lately I am guessing that you bought a couple of silver coins from a seller on ebay that graded them in their basement and tried to pass them off as one of the major grading services. After getting your coins you quickly discovered this and found that there was no return policy so you did the next thing and went to your local dealer for help. He/she told you what you had (which was what you discovered) and that they really were not worth that much. If it was me, I would put those coins somewhere you can see them so you can remind yourself now and then of the mistake and hopefully not repeat it. I did this two years ago with some Lincoln Cents that were MS69 and 70 that turned out being MS63-65 which is a major price change. There was no return policy and the writing was very well done that there were a ton of loop holes to cover him and not me.
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New Member
United States
5 Posts |
My problem with bidding on ebay is when I see a coin that I like I will put in my max bid. Then within one minute of the sale ending people start bidding like crazy and I always get outbid. Usually by only a few bucks. My question is, what is the best way to bid and win on a coin? Should I stay with my max and take the loss or do what others are doing and jump in the last minute? Thanx Kelly
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Pillar of the Community
United States
7123 Posts |
I lose more than I win but I refuse to over pay for a coin . There are sniper programs which you can use that bid in the last few seconds of an auction for you ,you can use one of those or actually place the bid yourself (this is my prefered method). If there is a coin I really want I do not bid at all until the last few seconds this keeps the other bidders from pecking away at my bid until they beat me or spend my max bid money and quit . just watch the coin in your ebay and then put in a bid that you believe will beat the current high bidder right at the end .
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Rest in Peace
United States
9104 Posts |
Quote: I purchased two high grade slabbed coins when I got them I really didn't know that they weren't what the slab said they were grade wise. Slobbed coins seldom are. The ones that make the grade are cracked out an resubmitted until they are overgraded.
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Rest in Peace
United States
9104 Posts |
Quote: From the few threads you have started lately I am guessing that you bought a couple of silver coins from a seller on ebay that graded them in their basement and tried to pass them off as one of the major grading services. After getting your coins you quickly discovered this and found that there was no return policy so you did the next thing and went to your local dealer for help. The same local dealer you didn't support because you figured you could save a buck or two by buying on the Internet. It always amazes me that I wasn't good enough to come to when they wanted to spend money, but they suddenly find me when they want to get rid of junk they paid three times market for.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
3294 Posts |
I only buy bulk silver on ebay because it can sometime be grabbed for less then spot.
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Rest in Peace
United States
9104 Posts |
Quote: My question is, what is the best way to bid and win on a coin? Snipe your max.
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Valued Member
United States
429 Posts |
Snipe, snipe, snipe, this is the best way to get something that you really want. I have done max bids a fair amount of times and the only ones I end up winning are very common pieces that everyone wants ans what is the point of that. If you snipe, then there are multiple things that can happen: 1. Get the item for cheaper. 2. Not start a bidding frenzy. 3. Practice typing in your last bid with less than 3 seconds. The problem most people have is that they think they can start sniping at the last few minutes when you need to be doing it during the last few seconds. But, you have to take into consideration that you are not always the same one biding on it and there is no way to know a max bid before going over it. You also have to consider that even with sniping, you need a max bid and stay with it, if an item is at $30.00 with less than a minute left you have to guess what others are going to do and what you will do to counter them. If a coin is very popular or having lots of action then you will end up paying a higher premium. But if you can find one that is not getting a lot of action and at a lower price, then most likely you can get a good outcome from it. The other thing I do is watch when I am bidding. In the US (where I am) most people work 9-5 and are in bed by midnight so I try to bid between 5-6 when they are driving home and 1-3 in the morning when they are sleeping. If you can set certain bids aside and do this now and then, you will also have better odds of winning the auction. The best examples I can give of this are: 1. At the end of the year last year we decided that we wanted to get the kids MP3 players and that ebay would be the way to go. I did a quick search of what was being offered on ebay and then did some other Internet searches to see what units would be best for the kids and the price range. I found an iPod knock off that had more options for $100-150 at a couple of online stores and noticed them going on ebay for $40-60 or $79 for a buy now option. The seller I found had roughly 300 they were selling over the next month and as many times I tried to get one I was always out bid. So during the last week I stayed up late one night and ended up getting 3 for about $45 a piece. 2. Coins that are offered by someone that does not know what they are and post them at an odd hour is what else I went after. I was trying to get a Large Cent for my collection that I did not want to pay more than $100 for and ended up getting a $300 coin for $35 shipped.
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
20753 Posts |
My suggestions are: 1. Keep away from ebay2. Don't use ebay3. Don't look at ebay4. Do not use ebay5. Same as above.
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Forum Dad
 United States
24182 Posts |
Quote:My suggestions are: 1. Keep away from ebay2. Don't use ebay3. Don't look at ebay4. Do not use ebay5. Same as above. It's very sad you feel that way. IMO, ebay is a tremendous place for a savvy collector like you to buy.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
666 Posts |
as to sniping... you could use a sniping program. I've got mine set up to bid with 2 seconds left in the auction. I tried it with 1, but more than half the time my bid wouldn't be received in time. This is also good because the program can run in the background so you don't have to actively be watching the auction. Just put in the max amount you want to spend and let it go. I pick up a lot of silver this way below melt cost (with shipping included). Most recently I was able to pick up Barber halves in between $4 and $6 when melt was at $7.
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Moderator
 United States
16679 Posts |
If the seller does not have a return policy of at least 7 days, forget it. You should have the opportunity to at least examine the coin and decide to keep or send back. I always offer a "7 business day no questions asked" return policy on my coins as long as the coin has not been removed from its original holder. That will void the return. Also, if his/her pictures are blurry or distorted in any way, stay away. With todays technology on digital cameras, even a baboon can take a decent picture. I also agree with BadThad, lock in your max bid and be done. My cell phone tells me I won, or got outbid. The other members covered what you need to know. Good luck.
swcoin.ecrater.com
Edited by vermontensium 08/23/2008 9:19 pm
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Forum Mom
 United States
5877 Posts |
Carl, in addition to Bobby and I, there are a lot of our members who sell on ebay. I'm sure you could buy from any of them and be perfectly safe, and I know that you would be safe with us. 
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