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Moderator
 United States
188475 Posts |
Enjoy filling the album!  My Dansco 8176 is still my favourite set, even though my 2nd Ike set (P CGS) has higher grades.  |
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Moderator
United States
96071 Posts |
Quote:
My Dansco 8176 is still my favourite set, JBucks set is my favorite set too - right after mine  |
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Moderator
United States
188475 Posts |
Quote:JBucks set is my favorite set too - right after mine  |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1613 Posts |
Buy a scale for the San Francisco issues which have 2 per year from to 1971-76. The weigh difference will help if in doubt between the clad and silver. Which are listed in the tab to the left, U.S. coins and currency- Coin Facts.
ANA member - PAN Member - BCCS Member There are no problems only solutions - the late, great John Lennon
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New Member
United States
26 Posts |
I just started this myself. I'm a total noob. To anyone that knows more than myself, am I better off cracking open clad proof sets and blue/brown Ikes to get what I need? Or buying ones already removed? What is the best way to aquire good clad examples? ebay is cluttered with garbage and bad listings. |
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Moderator
United States
188475 Posts |
Quote:
To anyone that knows more than myself, am I better off cracking open clad proof sets and blue/brown Ikes to get what I need? Or buying ones already removed? Nether method is superior to the other. It always depends on what is available to you. Buy the best you can find regardless of the container... Quote:What is the best way to aquire good clad examples? ebay is cluttered with garbage and bad listings. My original Ike set (Dansco album) was completed in 1993, long before ebay. Most came from local coin shops, where I could examine in hand before purchase. That being said, you best bet is going to be a local show or a coin show. They can be found on ebay, but requires time and patience. |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
2271 Posts |
Quote:I'm a total noob. To anyone that knows more than myself, am I better off cracking open clad proof sets and blue/brown Ikes to get what I need? Or buying ones already removed? What is the best way to aquire good clad examples? ebay is cluttered with garbage and bad listings. 98% of '71, 90% of '72 and substantial percentages of '73 and '74 blue Ikes are tarnished in the packaging. It's OK to buy these but be aware that many can not be cleaned up. The brown Ikes aren't a lot better with about 80 to 95% bad. These are a little more likely to clean up OK in 91% alcohol. Mint set Ikes also have serious problems. the '75 type I Philly comes awful even on the off chance you can find one not tarnished and these are not so likely to clean up OK. The '73 is usually OK and only about 65% of the '74's are bad. The '75 to '78 are usually tarnished. The best coins come in mint sets though so I'd suggest you either A count on having to look through a bunch of sets and clean a few to get a nice one or B buy one slabbed. I would avoid getting a very high grade because of cost but MS-64 and 65 can often be found at a decent price (<$25). I'd buy the brown ikes and later date blue ikes and get the early dates slabbed. The '73 P & D are mint set only but if you look at about 10 sets you should find a nice one. The bicentennial issues are easy except the one that comes in a three piece set without a white stripe is rarely seen. They are usually not tarnished though. Nice chBU and chPR ike sets are getting very expensive to put together. Many people don't realize the wholesale prices are soaring with the '71 roll selling for $100 now!!!! People ignored these coins to death and attrition has carried them off. Most dates are far scarcer in chBU than all of the common Morgan dollars and the '71 and '76 type I are scarcer than many of the better dates especially in Gem condition. Time don't fly, it bounds and leaps.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
2271 Posts |
Oh! ...And the '71 and '72 clads are a bear.
Just buy them slabbed unless you can find a dealer where you can see them first.
Time don't fly, it bounds and leaps.
Edited by cladking
07/13/2022 5:55 pm
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New Member
United States
26 Posts |
Great info to know! I really appreciate it
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Valued Member
United States
72 Posts |
Nice summation, cladking Quote:
Mint set Ikes also have serious problems. the '75 type I Philly comes awful even on the off chance you can find one not tarnished and these are not so likely to clean up OK. The '73 is usually OK and only about 65% of the '74's are bad. The '75 to '78 are usually tarnished. That's spot on to my experience. Quote:People ignored these coins to death and attrition has carried them off. Most dates are far scarcer in chBU than all of the common Morgan dollars and the '71 and '76 type I are scarcer than many of the better dates especially in Gem condition. I suspect you're right. I am the one to hunt raw Ikes at my regional shows. I've looked through hundreds over the past year, but only bought two for the grade. I've focused on landing the higher grades in slabs and looking for varieties raw. |
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Valued Member
United States
109 Posts |
I've always had a soft spot for the Ike's.
Have you visited the ikegroup site?
Several years ago I searched approx. 3000 Ike's. Found one type 2 Ike. Also numerous die clash varieties, talon heads, UDU's, several friendly eagles.
I took extensive notes at the time, I intended to post the results to the Ikegroup forum (never did though) and have since lost my notes.
Is there any reference material here on CCF, pictures etc?
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Pillar of the Community
United States
2271 Posts |
Quote:
I am the one to hunt raw Ikes at my regional shows. I've looked through hundreds over the past year, but only bought two for the grade. I've focused on landing the higher grades in slabs and looking for varieties raw. I'll still buy a few underpriced Gem ikes but I'm old enough now that I'm trying to sell almost everything. If I were younger I'd probably be buying any nice gemmy MS-64 or better ike I could find at a good price. The availability of these coins is plummeting and I've been selling into a very strong market. Most of these coins have always originated in mint sets and still do but most of the sets are gone now and the ones left are tarnished. I don't know what wholesalers are going to do to get these coins. Raising prices doesn't seem to help much because the availability of pristine sets is smaller than the weak demand. Also keep in mind that the prices of sets is escalating rapidly meaning fewer people will seek sets for their ikes and more will buy them from the wholesalers. Dealers will step in to fill the vacuum by buying sets at wholesale and restoring coins but I don't think they can keep up with demand. Time don't fly, it bounds and leaps.
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Valued Member
United States
72 Posts |
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...but most of the sets are gone now and the ones left are tarnished. Which is why I (and I suspect like you) try to grab any decent mint set I run across. I walk away from many, many more than I purchase. As for the Ikes, '73 and '74 have been the best sets for me. My most frustrating Ike is from a '75 set - a Type I Philly. It has nice luster with just a hint of toning, but the reverse fields are just chaotic chatter, to a degree I haven't seen on any other Ike. If the reverse was like the obverse, it would be special. |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
2271 Posts |
Quote:
Which is why I (and I suspect like you) try to grab any decent mint set I run across. I walk away from many, many more than I purchase. As for the Ikes, '73 and '74 have been the best sets for me. My most frustrating Ike is from a '75 set - a Type I Philly. It has nice luster with just a hint of toning, but the reverse fields are just chaotic chatter, to a degree I haven't seen on any other Ike. If the reverse was like the obverse, it would be special. The type I Philly are a mess. I was already buying mint sets by 1975 but I didn't even look for ikes because I had never seen a Gem and in those days I only liked well made clean coins. I never saw a Gem Ike until 1978 when I saw a 1977 Gem in a mint set and then I started checking every date more carefully. Much to my surprise they were turning up here and there but the '76 type I was the last one I ever found. I think I looked through well over 2000 sets. If memory serves they made only about 8,000,000 of these but they were almost every one awful. Only about 60% of mint sets coins could be described as chBU because the rest were banged up so much and had retained planchet flaws. Until recently most of them just got cut out of sets and hauled off to the bank. Now most of the sets are gone and the survivors are picked over a little and tarnished. Yet wholesale is only $4.20 It's not unusual to find them in dealer stock for a couple dollars. None of the ikes are really common in chBU. I suspect the '76-D type II is the most common but the lowest wholesale is the '77 P & D. Most of the dates aren't too tough in chBU (not much tougher than MS-60) but nice clean specimens of the '71, '73, and '76 t I, are not very common in chBU. The '72, '72-D, '74 are also a little tougher. In Gem the '77 and '78-D are "easy" but nothing else. The '76-D type II is easiest in PL. Time don't fly, it bounds and leaps.
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
1966 Posts |
Blue & Brown Ikes were part of my pass down. . .
Thanks to all for a very helpful thread.
" Even a clock that's stopped is right twice a day. "
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Replies: 18 / Views: 3,696 |
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Posted 06/29/2022 7:03 pm
Uncirculated American Silver Eagles 
