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 Replies: 17 / Views: 2,303 |
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Moderator
 United States
96935 Posts |
Most definitely search them first...
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Valued Member
 United States
94 Posts |
Just a sample of the condition of coins: 1st pic - 1930s 2nd pic - 1940 silvers 3rd pic - 1940s non-silver    |
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Moderator
United States
15466 Posts |
They look to be average circulated condition nickels so no condition rarities here.
I suggest you follow-up on the links provided for varieties before you return them to the bank.
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
2340 Posts |
1939 has a cool DDR. Good luck! smat |
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Moderator
United States
189053 Posts |
Quote:
I suggest you follow-up on the links provided for varieties before you return them to the bank.  |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
2208 Posts |
If you have the time, why not? You'll never know what goodies you might find.
Personally, I keep any pre-1960 nickel I find. When I began collecting in 1971, I founds scads of 1940s and 1950s in change, as well as the occasional 1938/39. But alas, no more.
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Valued Member
United States
94 Posts |
OK, I'll scope them out and let everyone know if I find something. To be honest, I've looked at the pics on https://www2.briansvarietycoins.com/listings of Class II and Distorted Hub doubling (mostly on IN GOD WE TRUST and LIBERTY), and I don't see what the posters are talking about. The letters all look pretty normal to me. The same with pics of a Class I Rotated Hub Doubling and Class VI Distended Hub Doubling. I have my doubts as to whether I'd be able to distinguish them if they were there. :( |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
6540 Posts |
The most highly regarded ones are typically the strong ones that are recognized by the Cherrypicker Guide and PCGS. Those are so strong that you won't miss them. You can also just post images of those years and mint mark combinations, and we can help you. The War Nickels doubled dies are quite distinctive. 1943-P has a doubled eye, and also the 1943/2 overdate. The doubled die reverses in 1942-P and 1945-P are also hard to miss. For the minor doubled dies, most can be detected by a super thick serif on the G in God (obverse) or giant feet on the N and M of Unum (reverse). For the repunched mint marks, just post images if you think you might have one. |
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Valued Member
United States
94 Posts |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
2003 Posts |
Unlikely but also be on the lookout for counterfeit Henning nickels, none of which are mint marked. Those dates would be 39, 44, 46, 47, and 53.
Edited by MisterT
05/13/2025 5:40 pm
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Moderator
United States
189053 Posts |
Quote:
Unlikely but also be on the lookout for counterfeit Henning nickels, none of which are mint marked. Those dates would be 39, 44, 46, 47, and 53.   |
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Valued Member
United States
291 Posts |
Edited by rlu7732
05/14/2025 8:11 pm
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Valued Member
United States
94 Posts |
Okay, after looking at the latest recommended sites, I'm getting the strong impression that what I should primarily be looking for is ANY doubling ANYWHERE. Not die breaks, die chips, Cuds, or most anything else, right? That would narrow things down. Also, I need to be using a scope, not just my 30x mag glass, right? |
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Valued Member
United States
291 Posts |
Cuds: https://cuds-on-coins.com/cuds-on-u-s-coins/For those other errors, this site will be a good reference, however, you'll need to proceed if your browser allows you to as the site is having an SSL cert issue at the moment. (It's safe to continue because you are not entering in any confidential information that would require https). https://www.error-ref.com |
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Valued Member
United States
94 Posts |
I'll just focus on doubling using a scope. Thx!
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Replies: 17 / Views: 2,303 |
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First Page
Posted 05/12/2025 9:15 pm
