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Replies: 17 / Views: 1,670 |
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
19134 Posts |
Good discussion. On very rare occasions I'll take photos in the ~36MP range. I find that works for me. If I had a need for much higher 'magnification', I'd opt for a high quality microscope with digital imaging capability--not to capture full coin pics, but only to isolate and view issues of interest.
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Moderator
 United States
187950 Posts |
Fascinating stuff. 
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
2144 Posts |
Quote: If I had a need for much higher 'magnification', I'd opt for a high quality microscope with digital imaging capability--not to capture full coin pics, but only to isolate and view issues of interest. ijn1944  : Yes, I think that makes much more sense, the picture will not take up as much space on a storage device..
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Pillar of the Community
  United States
4037 Posts |
If I have a particular feature I want to photograph I pull out the 10x microscope objective and shoot it. But if I'm documenting a new variety or other coin of interest, and I want to view details across the whole coin, I want a big image like the 156MP so I can look at all areas of the coin. The variety attributers like CONECA, Coppercoins, and Wexler shoot the individual markers when they publish, but there are often markers that are missed or overlooked, and the whole coin image will show these.
Contact me for photographic equipment or visit my home page at: http://macrocoins.com
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
2144 Posts |
I think that was ijn1944 point.. Save small (39MP), but if a coin needs to be investigated, reshoot the image into a larger format size (156MP).
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Pillar of the Community
  United States
4037 Posts |
Quote: I think that was ijn1944 point.. Save small (39MP), but if a coin needs to be investigated, reshoot the image into a larger format size (156MP). Hmm, I don't think so. It's really an either/or type of thing since it takes different optics and equipment to do what he is talking about. I'm using one system, and can change lenses to give different magnifications. If I want to do the 156/39MP type of image, I use one lens, while if I want to do the high magnification detail shot I change to a different lens. He mentioned shooting with a microscope with photo capability, which would not have the capability to shoot full coin pics but can do a good job on detail shots. The difference between 156MP and 39MP is just how I save the file. The baseline is 156MP, but I can downsize it 2x and get 39MP. Viewing on a site like EasyZoom, the step sizes are factors of 2, so you can view at 156MP at full zoom (without "Max"), and when you zoom out one step you're viewing at 39MP. It's actually pretty cool, and makes me think that I'll publish at 156MP since 39MP is always an option.
Contact me for photographic equipment or visit my home page at: http://macrocoins.com
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
2144 Posts |
Quote: Hmm, I don't think so. It's really an either/or type of thing since it takes different optics and equipment to do what he is talking about. I'm using one system, and can change lenses to give different magnifications. If I want to do the 156/39MP type of image rmpsrpms, thank you for correcting me and explaining the sequence of your technique, I thought I had understood it before...  What format are your pictures in? Do you change the file extension to lower the image size?
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Valued Member
United States
203 Posts |
Very cool! I like it; this has me considering an upgrade. The Nikon Z5 I currently have is unfortunately not capable of pixel shift.
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Pillar of the Community
  United States
4037 Posts |
Quote: rmpsrpms, thank you for correcting me and explaining the sequence of your technique, I thought I had understood it before... What format are your pictures in? Do you change the file extension to lower the image size? Here is the overall flow for the non-stitched High Resolution images: Camera: Sony A7Rm4 in 16-shot pixel shift mode Lens: Nikon 105mm Printing-Nikkor at magnification 1.2x, nominal f3.3, EA7.3 Source images: 28-shot focus stack, 25um steps, 675um total height, RAW format, total 448 images, 9504x6336 Composite images: 28 images, TIF format, 19008x12672 Focus Stack: jpg format, ~19000x12500 Processing: Crop to 12500x12500, levels and sharpening as needed, save jpg final images at 12500 and 6250 square
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Pillar of the Community
  United States
4037 Posts |
I just finished an image of a Texas Quarter that strained my system due to the complexity. The requirement was a 24000x24000 pixel (576MP) final image. With "normal" stack and stitch this would have required a huge number of tiles, but with pixel shifting I was able to keep to 6 tiles, though even so it was a half-day effort. Main issue was having to move large amounts of data around, followed by the pixel shift processing itself. Stacking and stitching were relatively trivial in comparison. Here are the details: 6 tiles (3 tall x 2 wide) Each tile has 20 stacked images Each image has a group of 16 pixel shift RAW images 1920 RAW files, ~115MB each, total 220GB Each RAW PS group renders to a 1.34GB TIFF file, total 120 files,160GB Each group of 20 TIFF files stacks to a final 220MB tile, total 6 tiles Final tiled panorama is 24000x24000, 576MP, 660MB The final file is manageable using many programs, though not Digital Photo Professional, which is limited to 10000x10000 pixels. But intermediate files for sure caused me some strain. I was pleased though that Sony's Imaging Edge Viewer was able to batch process the RAW pixel shift files. It took an hour to process, but that happened offline without any input from me so no worries. The final result is fairly impressive IMO. You can view it here on EasyZoom: https://easyzoom.com/image/655297/a...?mode=manageI think you'll find the coin interesting, as it has thousands of small divots and scratches from some unknown issue. I can't keep this image up on the server for very long as it is using up a big % of my 2GB allotment. EasyZoom has not responded to my requests to increase storage so I'll need to delete it at some point. Til then, enjoy!
Contact me for photographic equipment or visit my home page at: http://macrocoins.com
Edited by rmpsrpms 09/20/2025 2:36 pm
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
2144 Posts |
rmpsrpms, that is outstanding, you can even inspect a dot within a dot.. 
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
6481 Posts |
The images are spectacular, of course. =) I think there are separate use cases here. The super resolution seems better for examining new or disputed varieties. For example, I think that's the ideal tool to analyze something like a 1957-D 25¢ Misplaced D or your previous work on MMS-004/009 equivalence. For basic variety identification or documentation, the extra level of resolution might not get the same mileage. Most consumers of reference images will not have equipment that can examine their coins in ultra-detail. I also find myself wondering if phenomena like Die Deterioration flow wouldn't obliterate such tiny markers.
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Pillar of the Community
  United States
4037 Posts |
I'm definitely not a proponent for using these techniques for examining coins as that would be way too much work. I'm also looking at the Texas Quarter images as overkill for most purposes, except for the specific needs of the owner, ie he wanted to make a huge (40") print at 600DPI. I think he'll need to view the print with a magnifying glass to see all the details, but they'll be there!
My OP describes a much easier workflow without having to do any tiling/stitching, and with far fewer source images. Yet I still don't think it's appropriate for examinations. My goal is to have these images available for matching die markers and such versus a coin I might be viewing under a microscope. The full coin image gives more information than is contained in a small group of detail shots, and documents all the markers rather than just those the attributer found most interesting. If I can ever get it together I would host a bunch of such images for folks to use as a reference...maybe someday.
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
6481 Posts |
Quote: The full coin image gives more information than is contained in a small group of detail shots, and documents all the markers rather than just those the attributer found most interesting. I heartily endorse this idea. For well known varieties, I will often check the variety catalog sites, and then head straight to PCGS TrueView to examine the whole coin in high resolution color photographs. It is also very true that the original listing puts you at the mercy of whatever the attributer found worthy as markers. I would assume that they often do not have multiple specimens to compare. The remaining information on the coin is simply lost.
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Pillar of the Community
  United States
4037 Posts |
Exactly! That is my justification. My images, even the simpler ones, are 2-3x the resolution of the True Views so show all the small details. Makes nailing an attribution much easier.
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