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 Replies: 19 / Views: 5,581 |
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Valued Member
Canada
442 Posts |
I think in the end, silver is silver. Whatever you paid above spot is going to just be passed down to whoever you sell it to. I'm fairly new to coin collecting and I still don't understand how some coins have more numismatic value than others. Example, the 1999 silver proof set. So I guess what I'm trying to say is that IMO the metal value will always come first before the numismatic value(unless you have something really rare), and would not consider numismatic items as an "investment".
If I had to chose? I actually have a bit of everything. Bullion bars I bought at spot. Pandas and lunar coins I bought at a much higher premium, although I believe its due more to supply and demand rather than Numis. I even have a 5 1oz WWII set from perth that I paid almost 65/oz for. I guess it really depends how much others would want to buy my silver for.
Dunno if that answered your question
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
14454 Posts |
the numismatic silver is not really considered investment silver. I would never buy a coin as an investment even though you can make money on coins at times, it just isn't a good investment vehicle in my opinion. You pay a premium for numismatic items so you could possibly get quite a few ounces of silver in other forms for what you are paying for a coin. The other form of silver will never carry a numismatic premium but will always be worth what ever the silver is worth which sometimes thats all the coins are worth no matter how much of a premium you paid
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
2424 Posts |
i understand that there will always be the two separate markets. I understand that buying numismatic coins as investments probably isn't the best vehicle to do so. but lets say for example you did buy collectible numismatic coins for coin collecting and the silver market rose sharply. would those numismatic premiums follow suite with the price of silver? and likewise with a sharp decline in silver, would the numismatic premiums fall drastically with it as well?
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Valued Member
United States
310 Posts |
I don't know, I bought 7 roosies I needed to finish off a silver set this weekend below spot. They weren't real junk either. If you buy an ingot, bar, ASE, or key coins you'll pay a premium to spot. I think if you're just investing in silver, the unpopular coins, or junk silver would be the cheapest way to acquire it. You could buy mid rares for a premium and speculate on numismatic value, but since the numismatic value of mid rares haven't really changed, I see them pretty much following spot. IE, I don't see their numismatic value changing much, but their intrinsic value will change along with spot. If you just want silver, I'd buy junk silver. If you're collecting coins, I think you take more risk of silver dropping. A 1955 P Franklin may be $15-20 now, but if silver falls back to say $15 an once, that 1955-P will probably fall back to $9-12. Only wild card is melting and demand. I know a lot of dealers are just melting their junk silver, so things are becoming rarer. How many dealers are melting 1955-P's? would they consider them junk? I think if it's already a mid rare, they may stash those, but there are other dates that could become mid rares because of the melting that's happening now. |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
3592 Posts |
SDCoinguy, I see what you are asking  ...but to answer your question I think you should try to find a 1 year bar chart of say PCGS prices of MS65 silver dollars and compare to silver prices for the same time period.Easy enough and now that I've said it, maybe somebody has that info ? |
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Valued Member
United States
341 Posts |
SD, I have also wondered the same. I think if and when silver drops, values will also but not right away. Right now silver is high people have the fever. Once it drops I think it will take 3 to 6 months before junk silver comes down.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
511 Posts |
Junk silver is definitely the way to go today. The premiums and spreads are incredibly low, it's far more divisible than rounds and bars, and (based on past performance) the premiums are very capable of rising in the future.
I'm a picky buyer of pre-1965, so I try to cherrypick Merc dimes and decent-looking Franklins and Walkers. It fills the collecting urge at bullion prices.
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Valued Member
India
265 Posts |
invest in silver coins which have more silver content. Probably they would fetch more money in later years. Also look out for rarity and unique pieces for your collection.
warm wishes.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
2424 Posts |
we are getting warmer with the answers. main man is the closest right now to reading my mind.
that is what I am after. for example about 2 months ago, around christmas time I went in with 100 bucks or so to the coin shop looking to buy the highest grade franklins I could for my set... I spent around $15-20 for common franklins. even $30 for a 48 or 49. I forget. the dealer told me "i havent had to change those prices in months. heck they looked like they had sat there for 6 months; I mean I see them everytime I walk in. all the coins I bought looked around MS63/64. he even let a slabbed MS64 go for $20, I think it was a 62-d...anyway. at that time silver was jumping also but the prices of ms64+ coins did not seem to be affected.
what I am getting at with all of this is that I want to get the most with my money and get the highest quality grade possible and not have to worry about what silver is doing to the price of that particular coin. so if I went out and bought a MS65 FBL 48-s, chances are I would pay a nice premium, but my point is that premium would stay that way even if silver rose or fell. get it? I would totally go buy junk if it was just for investment sake. but I want to collect and add to my MS collection.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
3670 Posts |
I am novice at this as I often mention first, and probably not knowledgeable enough to give you the answers you seek, but I can tell you what I like.... 1.It needs to be sought after. For example if I see a good silver 1 oz comm coin set for a long time at a good price, I loose interest, even if I like the item in question.... 2. You can't go wrong in my novice opinion again, in the Australian lunar silver. It seems so sought after, and it takes twelve years to complete a set like 1999 through 2010. I think anything with a nice complete set factor (the work is already done by me, you to enjoy) is attractive to buyers. Again I buy an sell on ebay, and DO I NOT get emotionally attached to items, as really none of us own anything in this world, we are just renting space an items for a period of time. For example I bought the king of the set in most opinions, the 2000 Dragon coin for 91 total, and saw another setting at 150 recently with days to go, ungraded. I put many of the lunar coins of various sizes gold and silver in research with hope to buy, and they are bought within two days generally if not priced ridiculously.... 3. History or important people will always be sought after, presidents, world war II images, planes from world war II, famous people like Elvis, you name it, there is a collector angle, doubled edged being sliver, an the image on coin, like Disney mouse, tons of Disney collectors.... Now then, would it be correct to say that I am collecting bullion coins, not numismatic coins thus far? That sounds like dumb question I am sure, but again I am just trying to understand much, and there is much to learn. Being all that I have bought is a replica, and I bought mainly for the pure silver content, and secondly for the image or minting.... I have looked at gold coins from Belgium in 1915 for example, real graded coin, the numbering system up to 70, I suppose that being mint, usually with ware in most cases. Would this be considered the numismatic side? |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
3184 Posts |
You do know that you can get bu or proof 90% coins for melt nowadays that silver is so high right? Search around you can find them!
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
10982 Posts |
Quote:
You do know that you can get bu or proof 90% coins for melt nowadays that silver is so high right? Search around you can find them!
I agree with mkman123. BU rolls of Franklins, including some dates from the 1950s, are available very close to melt value. Granted that's about $240/roll right now, but if they are truly BU or OBW these are great to have. If you get lucky you might pull a couple gems out of those rolls and most should be around MS63. They're pretty sweet when you can find them. |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
3670 Posts |
I did a search for what you speak of and added this to research. So in theory as there is no bi-est with silver generally on ebay seems like, as it always get up to at least spot value, this should end around 240 bucks as you said BH1964.... http://cgi.ebay.com/Roll-20-pre-196...em4aa8eb3bc5Edited by Silverhawk74
02/23/2011 12:59 am
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Bedrock of the Community
Australia
21788 Posts |
Buy what you consider are 'blue chip' silver coins. If nothing else, that means high grade silver coins that have a proven track record for steady value increases. For that information, you need to examine the auction records over the last 10 years or so of the particular coins you may be interested in.
That means some keyboard research is needed.
You may discover that the price stability you are looking for may be in high grade copper or gold cons instead.
High grade coins of any metal are always in demand. Auction results bear this out.
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
2448 Posts |
Concentrate on Key dates. We just had a Show here and I was looking for key dates. Even the 1928 Peace dollar's value, in G4 condition, is over 13 times spot. The keys will hold their value longer as the commodity prices wane. It might just be me, but it appears that Key Date coins are rarely affected by "spot" price. |
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Posted 02/22/2011 09:39 am
