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Need Help With A 1916-D Mercury Dime.

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Pillar of the Community
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5832 Posts
 Posted 11/12/2011  8:52 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add macmercury to your friends list
It is a good thing that the damage isn't near the MM.
Looks like this can bring near thousand $ on the bay with a true auction.
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16679 Posts
 Posted 11/12/2011  9:03 pm  Show Profile   Check vermontensium's eBay Listings Check vermontensium's eCrater Listings Bookmark this reply Add vermontensium to your friends list
Awesome!
Looks to be ex-jewelry with the solder residue, my guess. Still, a nice looking 16-D :P
swcoin.ecrater.com
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United States
297 Posts
 Posted 11/12/2011  10:01 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add cd_god to your friends list
Throw it on ebay, auction starting at $1, and make us all here proud with the big payout (my guestimate $1200)
Rest in Peace
United States
4849 Posts
 Posted 11/12/2011  10:27 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add johnny54321 to your friends list
Wow! I knew it was better than VG, but VF30 is a little generous. All the same, MAJOR score for you my friend! I predict a 4 figure payout as well, as this coin is very rare in VF, damaged or otherwise.
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 Posted 11/12/2011  11:49 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add LTMets44 to your friends list
Thank you guys. I would be a little scared to throw it on ebay for a starting bid of $1. Honestly, I am considering two things. (1) Keep it. I think this coin would only go up in value as the years go by. Although I can use the money, but I'm not that desperate yet. (2) Trade it for a coin or coins that I have been thinking of buying, but never have enough money.

I honestly think I'll hold on to it for a while. Like George O. Walton's Nephew said when asked why he hasn't sold the 5th known 1913 Liberty V nickel yet, "I'd rather have the coin & think about the money, then have the money & think about the coin."
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United States
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 Posted 11/13/2011  1:05 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Josie67 to your friends list
Congratulations! Glad to see that it was authenticated and graded nicely!
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 Posted 11/13/2011  4:28 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add LTMets44 to your friends list
Thank you. I have another question on this. Is it normal that the pillar on the reverse is not straight up & down?
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 Posted 11/14/2011  11:32 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add CaptainFwiffo to your friends list
1916 type dimes are harder to grade because they're higher relief which makes the wear pattern different on the obverse. Specifically, the front part of the wing wears down more, and the end of the wing wears less. Looking at the clarity of the sticks in the fasces, VF25 or VF30 seems about right. Too bad about the damage, but still a killer find!

@LTMets44: Yes, AFAIK all four die pairings for 1916-D dimes have that rotation (which is common in Mercury dimes generally). A 1916-D with substantially less or more rotation is a fake.
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 Posted 11/14/2011  11:44 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add LTMets44 to your friends list
Thank you for clearing that up captainfwiffo. & yes, it's my best find yet, damage and all. =)
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 Posted 11/14/2011  1:18 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add just carl to your friends list

Quote:
Thank you. I have another question on this. Is it normal that the pillar on the reverse is not straight up & down?

Slightly rotated reverses are common with Mercury dimes. I've got over 3,000 of them and I would say about 25% have rotated reverses. Some to the left and some to the right. this appears to be just one of those.
And as to keeping that coin. As I mentioned previously, try to remember the 300,000,000+ people in the USA today and growing by the second. Now with over 7,000,000,000 on Earth, again, try to remember how many may want that coin.
So your chances of finding one in the future is getting dimmer by the second also.
I wouldn't want to be a person that someday says coulda, shoulda, woulda.
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 Posted 11/14/2011  2:54 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add LTMets44 to your friends list
So I take it that you are advising me to keep it just carl.


Quote:
I wouldn't want to be a person that someday says coulda, shoulda, woulda.


That is why I haven't made any split decisions yet. I will weigh my options.

Thank you.
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 Posted 11/14/2011  3:05 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add jbuck to your friends list
Excellent!

Keep it. Fill the hole in your album. Be proud to have it!
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 Posted 11/14/2011  3:52 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add LTMets44 to your friends list
Now that I have the coin in hand. How can I look up the number online to see it? I know NGC has a Verify NGC Certification section but I can't find one on ANACS.
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 Posted 11/14/2011  5:37 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add coinguybrian to your friends list
You could definitely get quite a bit on ebay for it...$100 or $250 is way too low. Originally, I would've also advised you to get it repaired...however the high slab grade will further increase the amount you get for it as people often buy the slab, not the coin (especially on key dates) so it might not be worth it any more given that you probably won't get a VF-30 grade again. I agree with the others that VF-30 is generous...I was thinking around F-15 but the same thing has happened to me both ways (undergrading and overgrading) when submitting coins. It might look stronger in hand though, so I could be wrong.

Also note that its not the mintage that makes this coin so expensive, even though 264,000 is pretty low for a 20th century coin. The 1927-S quarter has 400,000 minted and its only $20-25 in AG condition. It's more that everyone wants to complete this set, supply and demand etc. It's also been 'famous' as a key date for a long long time. I have a few coins with less than 1/10 the mintage of a 1916-D, and they're all worth less even in higher grade save for one I think. I'd keep it in the slab and put it up for BIN or best offer at $1200, and see what offers roll in. Try to get $750 after fees out of it. I dont think ANACS has a cert lookup, by the way.
Edited by coinguybrian
11/14/2011 5:39 pm
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10982 Posts
 Posted 12/04/2011  11:33 pm  Show Profile   Check BH1964's eBay Listings Bookmark this reply Add BH1964 to your friends list
I wonder what NCS could do about getting that solder residue off the reverse? It might leave a nasty looking surface, but if it's not welded into the base metal, it would look a heck of a lot better.

No way you should take under $500 for it. I could see it bringing $1,000 with the right buyer.
ANA #R3154474
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