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 Replies: 14 / Views: 2,249 |
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New Member
United States
32 Posts |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
898 Posts |
One thing I've messed up on I think is going to fast. Just looking for silver or certain dates. There is more to be found than key dates/silver. Die cracks, die rotations, etc. I would definitely slow down but if you're not into that, look for what you want. It's always a blast. Good luck!
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Pillar of the Community
United States
2850 Posts |
Well, you're pretty much trapped in the addiction now. Good luck on hunting and post any neat finds.  |
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New Member
 United States
32 Posts |
Thanks!! I will definitely update on any neat finds!! I cant wait, and I still have to wait til morning, gonna be a long sleepless night looking at different coin sites! Any specific tips or frequent mistakes that beginners make that I should make sure to avoid?
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1234 Posts |
Some branches don't have large quantities of coins on hand so you may have to go to a certain branch, I'd suggest calling before you go in, just incase. You can cut the boxes open carefully and use them for storage and sorting or just rip them open. It won't be long till you have a stack of them if you do want to save them. Use a towel or some sort of cloth, coins are dirty and being round they tend to roll, so having something to stop them getting too far is nice. Your fingers will get filthy too, I use an old dish sponge to clean up after. Halves are $500 to a box but most banks either refuse to order them or just re-roll locally, sometimes you can get them to order a new box, but it's still a big question mark as to getting anything. Halves past 2001 were made for collectors only, NIFC (Not Intended For Circulation). So keep track of them, anything with an S mint mark is a proof from San Francisco and could be clad or silver. Quarters are also $500 for a box. Not a good source for silver but you can work on the state and ATB Quarters if you feel like it. Dimes are $250 for a box, The edge reeding on dimes is a killer on your fingers if they are new, just like a nail file, when I was doing tons of dimes I ended up putting a bandage on and it felt better. A nice source for silver, easily spotted most days. Nickels are $100 for a box and have some interesting variety. Shield and V-Nickels are still being found. It's almost rare to get a box with out at least one silver war or Buffalo nickel. The basic plan most people seem to have is to save anything older than 1960. 1938 and 39 with a mint mark are rare and 1950 and 1950-D are hard to come by too. Check out the link in my signature to see a bit more on the war nickels  Pennies are $25 for a box, so heck why not just get two for me I keep anything 1981 and older that is in good shape, if it is corroded or really dirty I don't want it infecting the rest of my copper. With 1982 you have to weigh them  which is a bit of a pain so I just dump them with anything newer. I like to pop a roll of pennies open then spread them out and flip them so the back is showing then pull all the shields, you can see the wheat's that way too It all depends on what you are doing with it, Silver and Wheat searching? Errors or foreign or copper hoarding? Another tip is to get a folder for them all, these will run $4 and up, cheapo Whitman's folders are a nice place to start and can be picked up at most coin shops or hobby stores. You also need to figure out where to dump it all after you have sorted through it, some banks require them to be re-rolled, the machines sometimes keep a percentage, and some banks charge to use their machine. Plus if you dump them at the same bank you get rolls from they might be re-rolling them and selling them back to you the next week. So having a dump bank and a pick-up bank is a good idea. Edit: forgot to say good luck  Edited by ASLAN TVorlon
05/09/2014 12:48 am
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Bedrock of the Community
 United States
12845 Posts |
Good advice from ASLAN.
Have fun regardless of the strange looks you get from your family members.
Bright light is always a necessity and if your eyes aren't quite as sharp as they used to be, some sort of magnifying solution that you don't have to use your hands for helps.
Keep us posted.
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New Member
United States
32 Posts |
thanks a lot for the tips! I will most likely have my laptop next to me open to aslan's post! Any other advice/tips/help is GREATLY appreciated :)
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
12845 Posts |
Well, if you want to know my setup, I'm usually on the couch with a TV dinner tray in front of me. On it in the back corner is a LED desk lamp with a flexi-neck arranged to shine straight down onto the tray without shining into my eyes. That way the coins are lit up brightly while I'm looking at them and I don't get spots in my eyes except from those super-shiny proof beauties, of course. I have a visor with 10x magnification to help see coin details. The visor keeps my hands free and I can look over it or under it easily if I need to see something unmagnified. This is particularly where you might get some odd glances from your family... ahem. The things we do for our hobbies. Of course there's a box of coins from the bank with rolls in easy reach, usually on the ottoman so I don't have to lean over. It's not laziness (well maybe a little), it's just for efficiency.  Discard box in closer reach to throw rejects so they don't bounce all over the place. I still find rejects that have missed the reject box under the couch and in corners; it's a fact of CRH life. Some movie that I've seen a dozen times so as not to be too distracting is playing on the TV. Top Gun, LOTR, Hopscotch, Total Recall, Goonies, whatever. Something that you can pretty much play over in your head without looking up. Glass of vino (or your favorite beverage) within easy reach. Notepad and pen to record good finds on the TV dinner tray. Depending on what I'm CRH'ing, I have various small bins/ramekins on the TV dinner tray to catch coins that need comparison against existing albums for potential upgrades, coppers, pre-60's, interesting PMD, toners, etc. A box/bin somewhere convenient to collect coin roll wrappers; they can get out of control easily if you're going through a bunch of boxes in one sitting. Hey, it's a somewhat complex setup, but it works for me.  Take some of these ideas and incorporate into your CRH style if you like. Enjoy! |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1234 Posts |
Quote:
Some movie that I've seen a dozen times  Quote:
coin roll wrappers; they can get out of control easily No one has remembered to mention the 2009's, for the penny it is the Bi-Centennial of Lincoln's birth so they have 4 different backs, a common idea in CRH is to save those. Also the dimes and nickels are hard to find, it seems the production numbers were not really all that low but they are scarce. |
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Pillar of the Community
1325 Posts |
Something else not mentioned, you will get tired of seeing 1964 nickels unless you get a box of all new ones. There is jsut so many of them, you will go broke if you try to keep many of those things. I just keep 60 and back for nickels.
be sure to keep S mintmark cents.
I pray for your eyes on those dimes. The monotony will get you with them unless you get foreign mixed in.
Keep all the foreign too. Never kow what goodies you might have there. good luck!
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New Member
United States
32 Posts |
OK!! Thanks all!! Is anyone able to give me a site, or if they themselves know, a complete list of dates of each denomination (dime, nickel, penny) that are important to keep? bank opens in 90 minutes! Getting super excited to begin my quest of CRH!! I've GOT THE FEVER!!!
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1295 Posts |
Welcome to the roll hunting crowd, Maselyk!  Here's a link to a complete list of dates-mints for every denomination. http://www.coincommunity.com/refere...hecklist.pdfI only search pennies and nickels, so I can only give advise on on what to look for when searching these. PenniesPre-1959, since any cents before that will have the wheat reverse. Any mint errors, such as clips, Cuds, die clashes, and large die cracks; you can google these if you are not quite sure what they mean. If you are going to continue searching on a weekly basis, I would recommend getting the Cherrypicker's Guide to Rare Die Varieties of United States coins: Volumes 1 and 2. This is a must for a roll hunter, and I have found a lot of double-dies on otherwise ordinary looking coins. Type into google 1955 DDO Lincoln Cent, and you will get lots of pictures and info on this very valuable variety. If you ever found one you would know it in an instant, even without magnification. Keep any S mints. Hang on to very high-grade coins in general. Always keep colorfully toned cents. You may even come across an occasional Indian Head penny in a roll: it is not by far a common thing to find, but it is still a possibility. I have found five in total and I know that other members have found them as well. NickelsAs a general rule, only keep pre-1960 nickels. Be on the lookout for silver War Nickels; these were minted from 1942-45, and are usually worth around $1 and up. The major identifying mark for these nickels is a large P, D, or S mintmark above Monticello on the reverse. You can still find Buffalo nickels in rolls; I have found five in total so far. There are several "key date" issues for Jefferson's: the 1939-D, the 1949-S, and the 1950-D. Although not technically rare, the nickels from 2009 are almost impossible to find in rolls; I have only found 2 in over a year of searching. Keep any errors, as mentioned above; clips, Cuds, die clashes, and large die cracks. Hang on to high grade nickels. A way to tell a strong strike is to look at the steps on Monticello, and if they are clearly defined, the rest of the coin is most likely sharply struck as well. Keep any toned nickels. Whew! Alright, my lecture is over. If you have any questions about anything I said, don't be afraid to ask. Whatever you look for, I know that you will have a wonderful time roll hunting. Good luck, and report back to us on your finds! Edited by Rollsearcher37
05/09/2014 09:55 am
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Pillar of the Community
United States
4212 Posts |
Concerning nics, it must depend where you are on the '09. Current box has yielded about a 1/2 dozen, I've many rolls from boxes. I really dont know why I save them. In addition to what's been said about the silver years, look for the '44 w/out a mm. '82 &'83, particullarly the '82 phillys are keepers in VF or above. I've sold AU rolls for $60+. You've been given good advice all around, happy hunting!
Edited by fioti
05/09/2014 12:15 pm
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1234 Posts |
Another thing no one really mentioned... Foreign coins. Canada's are all basically the same size as US, and the quarters and dimes can still be silver up to 1968, Pre-82 Canadian 5 cent pieces are pure nickel (is nickel the new silver... maybe not but I still keep all foreign) Dime and quarter are solid nickel into the 90's, not sure about the cut off date for them, but again I just keep all of them I just got a British 6 pence piece from a penny roll, it was from 1954 so not silver but if it had been a few years older (1947) it would have been silver. |
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New Member
United States
32 Posts |
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Replies: 14 / Views: 2,249 |
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Posted 05/08/2014 11:30 pm
