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Replies: 175 / Views: 20,220 |
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Valued Member
United States
403 Posts |
wheats only, missing 5, no brainer there as to which 5
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Valued Member
United States
368 Posts |
I've been collecting lincoln cents since I started collecting. at first I collected the nicest ones I could find CRH for my books, as well as saving all copper cents I could find. Now, I am saving all 2013 cents I come across because they are in such nice shape. I am rolling them up, and currently have found $2.50 of them that I got for face. I also save any unusual coins and ones that are "problem free" no rust, spots, scratches, etc.
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Moderator
 United States
188440 Posts |
Quote: I have no intention of buying the 22 no-D. BUT...one day I may decide to do so, just to fill the hole with something other than a blank planchet. I have already resolved to buy the much less expensive "weak D" to place in that spot, as long as it is a "weak D" that looks like there is no D (to the eye). 
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Pillar of the Community
United States
2850 Posts |
I have a Dansco album I've been working on completing. 1909-2007 including proofs. I almost have all proofs from 1971 on up to 2007. Still a few early wheats I need, but most of them are key/semi-key dates. 1959-2007 are pretty much all UNC/BU pennies.
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New Member
United States
15 Posts |
I have all from 1909-current except for the "1909 s vdb" and "1922 no D" I have a weak D(can't see unless using a loupe).
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1109 Posts |
Quote: I have already resolved to buy the much less expensive "weak D" to place in that spot, as long as it is a "weak D" that looks like there is no D (to the eye). Yeah...and here I thought it was hard when I pulled the trigger on the 09-S VDB. I really can't imagine paying a couple thousand for an error coin I don't even really care about that much, just to complete an album that thinks I should have one in it. I am planning to go to the Cowtown coin show in Fort Worth in a couple weeks and one of the things I am going to look for is a weak-D 1922. If the offer is right and I don't see anything else more appealing, I may consider it. Maybe.
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Valued Member
United States
237 Posts |
The only set I'm currently collecting is 1909-1933 Wheat Cents in MS64 or better, which I don't think I will ever complete and only have 20 of them right now. The P-mints are pretty easy across the board but dang those 1911-1928 S-mints are nearly impossible. The only S mints I do have right now are 1910-S, 1916-S, and 1930-S. 1914-D, 1922 plain, and 1926-S are a pipe dream for me. 
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Pillar of the Community
United States
4085 Posts |
I was just going through my want list for my uncirculated set this morning and I am in almost exactly the same position as you, SecretGlitch. The P's were pretty easy and even the D's are reasonable (except the 14-D of course which I have decided I'm just going to have to be satisfied with my nice VG coin there).
I am shooting a little lower than MS64 (62/63 is fine by me) but even then, those teen and earlier twenties S-mints in uncirculated condition are hard to find and expensive as heck when you finally do find them. $500 and up is not unheard of for nice examples of coins like the 14-S. That's gonna slow me down for sure. I miss working on the 30's and 40's where I could buy a couple a week sometimes. Now it's once every few months.
Edited by KenKat 08/17/2013 10:08 am
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Valued Member
United States
477 Posts |
Some of my wheats have spots of active blue/green corrosion and some of my 43s have active rot too. Is there anything I can/should do to stop the corrosion and maybe clean them up a bit without harming them? Not that there are any treasures in the pile, a 29S is about the only non 40s, 50s I've found so far.
Rick
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Bedrock of the Community
 United States
11951 Posts |
One of our CCF members has a product called Verdicare. I purchase it through Wizard coin supplies.
I think it works very well on light verdigris, green spots.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
4085 Posts |
If the blue/green corrosion is crusty, it is probably verdigris. Check out Verdi-Care developed by BadThad of CCF. Just do a search. Works really well.
If the blue/green is slimy looking, it might be PVC damage from older style plastic coin flips. People use acetone to remove that but often the coin is damaged underneath. I don't have experience personally with PVC damage.
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Valued Member
United States
237 Posts |
Quote: I am shooting a little lower than MS64 (62/63 is fine by me) but even then, those teen and earlier twenties S-mints in uncirculated condition are hard to find and expensive as heck when you finally do find them. $500 and up is not unheard of for nice examples of coins like the 14-S. That's gonna slow me down for sure. I miss working on the 30's and 40's when I could buy a couple a week sometimes. Now it's once every few months. Well for me, the fun comes from the hunt for a nice quality, affordable example of these difficult years. That's why I like looking for the D mints, especially from the 20's, as they're (generally) a lot cheaper than their S-mint brothers but nonetheless finding a well-struck, appealing piece is very challenging. That's why I'm pretty happy with this 1925-D I recently picked up, it's a pretty strong example of a generally poorly struck date.  
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Pillar of the Community
United States
4085 Posts |
Looking at pricing, I saw a big break point between MS-63 and MS-64 for a lot of the S mints especially. Sometimes a 64 is 2x or even 3x the price of a 63. So while I have some 64's in the set for sure, I will drop down to find the best price point because honestly, there's a lot of judgement involved in my opinion between single number grades. Maybe less so if you are buying certified top-3, but even then sometimes. My thoughts at least and not trying to dissuade you from building a certified MS-64 set if that's your goal and you have the budget! That would be one heck of a set.
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Valued Member
United States
237 Posts |
If I had the budget and the means I'd try to get as close to gem as possible, as my first piece in this set I ever got is a 1917 in MS-65RD. If you want to see a price jump, MS-64 to MS-65 does a whole lot more most of the time than MS-63 to MS-64. But if I was really trying to complete the set, with my budget I'd have to collect at XF. 64 makes a good compromise, and I don't mind if I never can get close to finishing it.
Also I'd buy an MS-63 if it was really nice for the grade, but a lot of the ones I've seen were pretty cruddy.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1109 Posts |
Since I have a completed set, I am now trying to upgrade it. Initially I said anything older than 1921 would be VG or higher, but I think I am going to go for the gusto and try for all MS-60 or better. My goal is to upgrade one cent a month at a minimum. I only have 42 more to upgrade!
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Replies: 175 / Views: 20,220 |