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 Replies: 13 / Views: 1,667 |
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Valued Member
United States
122 Posts |
I live in SoCal and if you have seen any news in the last 48 hours you have seen we are getting more rain then we get in 2 years combined. With all this rain there is a lot of debris in the roads and I hit something last night and popped a tire. So this morning I went to get it fixed and as I am waiting I noticed some pennies had fallen in between the seats. This was one of them.   Edited by Cobia
03/01/2014 1:12 pm
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Valued Member
United States
132 Posts |
I want to say split plate or MD. Notice how the mm looks to have the same doubling? They were hand punched then but I could be totally wrong.
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
62064 Posts |
The lighting direction is not showing whether it is Machine Doubling or something else. But it definitely not plating split. They didn't start with the plating until 1982. This coin is a 1968-D. On my images I have the light at 12:00. This light looks like it is coming from the next county. A second problem with the lighting is glare. When you place the lighting with glare on the devices you want to show, that is another no, no. Describe what you are using for taking images? Describe the lighting source? Maybe something can be suggested to help you get better images. |
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Valued Member
 United States
122 Posts |
At the airport ATM, will update later today.
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
62064 Posts |
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Valued Member
United States
122 Posts |
Awesome Coop, Thank You... I know it will really help me with all this. Lighting and my setup for these pics. For these pics I tried the lighting from all 4 sides. I am using a scanner for these pics. HP-2050 (Deskjet printer/scanner).      Edited by Cobia
03/01/2014 5:56 pm
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
62064 Posts |
The scanner will never good images of micro devices on a coin. They show a good overall look, but lack food details. If you change your settings to the largest size of image possible, it might help a little more, but images taken through a magnifying glass/loupe/microscope will show better close ups. Some try the cheaper SUB microscopes but the biggest draw back for them is the plastic lens in the device. But for searching they may be helpful.
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Valued Member
United States
122 Posts |
I know your DVD is one the way but could you give me some idea of what a middle of the road set up to take good pics consist of (Above you mention microscope, so are there a more preferred one or is there ones that come with a camera or do they have USB etc...)? Or a certain camera with "must have features" to make all this a little easier ?
I know that is a long and broad question but if someone said "Hey Coop what would I need to take the best possible pictures to show the smallest of details on an old coin?"
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Pillar of the Community
United States
853 Posts |
What kind of phone do you have? I purchased a macro lense for my iPhone, for less than $3, that blows away my USB scope. It's not quite the quality of the photos Coop gets with his awesome setup, but it's more than adequate to get what you need to get help on the forum. The picture below is the you on a 1970-D quarter reverse. The macro lense attaches magnetically to an adhesive, metal ring. Hope this helps.  |
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Valued Member
United States
132 Posts |
Thanks for the clarification Coop. I'm still figuring out what is what. Cobia I found using a tissue really does help with glare. I have a 40 dollar celestron and I put medical paper tape over the leds to help.
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Valued Member
United States
281 Posts |
Cobia, go on the articles titled coin photography there is some awesome advice on there, Ray and all of them have some real real good info on it.
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Valued Member
United States
132 Posts |
I want to say split plate or MD. Notice how the mm looks to have the same doubling? They were hand punched then but I could be totally wrong.
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Valued Member
United States
132 Posts |
Sorry I have no idea why that just posted again.
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
62064 Posts |
As for scopes, there are many different types. Most are over kill if they are above 10X. 20X-40X are nice, but I use a 3.5-35X infinite zoom microscope. With the 3.5X I can get a shot of a dime or cent full image. Coins larger just parts of it. But the nice thing about the zoom is that you can get the exact shot you want. Not too close or too far away. Anything larger than these powers are overkill.  The newer scopes have a different setup, but you can get the same power. My scope I've used for over 10 years. I use a different setup for images of full coins. The lighting and other things are low priced for what I buy. The scope is the big ticket. The camera can be a big ticket depending on what you are buying. The software can be expensive. But if you know what to look for and buy, it can be reasonable. |
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Replies: 13 / Views: 1,667 |
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Posted 03/01/2014 2:21 pm
