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Restoring Dates To Silver Coins- Help!

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Bedrock of the Community
United States
20753 Posts
 Posted 02/05/2008  07:29 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add just carl to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply

Even if there were a way to do so...it would negate any type of numismatic value the coin would have anyways. If the coins date is not readable it most often isn't worth anything more then melt.

As already noted. The resulting coins would be useless to anyone except for melt. To purchase chemicals for such a project and then have them laying around would be dangerous, a waste of money, a waste of time, produce a useless product.
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mahgobbi's Avatar
United States
549 Posts
 Posted 02/05/2008  10:02 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add mahgobbi to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I need to respectfully disagree with the people who repeatedly post comments on this board suggesting that acid-restoring a date renders a coin worthless. Perhaps it may according to RedBook or Grey Sheet values, but in reality, value is set by the price the market will bear.

Dateless coins are generally that way for a reason...they are severely worn and of little value based solely on their overall condition. Acid-restoring the date is not going to hurt the value of these coins, because they essentially have no value to begin with.

In the case of silver, the coins are worth only melt value whether or not they have been restored...but they could be worth more if a key date is revealed in the restoration.

In the case of Buffalo nickels, those with acid-restored dates generally sell for more than no-date nickels and, again, they could be worth significantly more if the restoration reveals a key date.

The benefit to restoring is that the severely worn coins are generally older dates, and possibly key dates. Key date coins have value even if they are acid-restored. I understand that most of the hard-core collectors on this board don't see any value in them; however, beginners see the value, as do collectors with limited finances who want to fill holes in their albums.

A few weeks ago I posted some photos of a horrible looking 1918 Buffalo nickel. If it were to be graded, it would probably end up as either "FR-2 Acid-Restored" or (at best) "AG-3 Acid-Restored." The restored date showed what appeared to be a 7 under the 8. People from this board seemed to agree that it was most likely a 1918/17. In my opinion, it wasn't worth the cost of joining ANACS and the cost of attributing/grading, since it was in such bad condition and wouldn't have significant value either way. However, even in its horrible, unattributed condition, I found somebody who paid me $60 shipped for it.

I know it isn't much, especially to the hard-core collectors, but it's sure a heck of a lot more than the $.15 that it was worth when it was a no-date.

I've never personally restored a coin, but I'm giving serious thought to doing some. It's all a personal decision, but to render a coin valueless simply because the date has been restored is wrong. I agree it devalues the coin, but it doesn't necessarily make it valueless.
Edited by mahgobbi
02/05/2008 10:13 am
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biokemist6's Avatar
United States
12437 Posts
 Posted 02/05/2008  11:16 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add biokemist6 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
quote:
In my opinion, it wasn't worth the cost of joining ANACS


You don't have to "join" ANACS, you just submit directly to them. Also, a 1918/7 as a nic-a-dated AG3 is worth a bit of money certified. I have seen them sell for $2-300 on ebay as long as it is attributed in an NCS or ANACS slab.

I do agree with your premise though that nic-a-dating doesn't ruin the value of something that is only worth 10-15 cents anyway. Those nic-a-dated early branch mint Buffaloes sell for 10-30% of undamaged value. Many are pricey even in G4 so nic-a-dates can be a less expensive way of completing that Buffalo collection.
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mycrob's Avatar
United States
2602 Posts
 Posted 02/05/2008  11:30 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add mycrob to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I agree with you mahgobbi. Standing Liberty quarters that are dateless have only buillion value, but if there is a way to restore the date and it reveals a 23S or a 21, I'm sure someone would pay more than current buillion for it.

Quite a few of my dateless SLQ are mint marked, so if there is a way to restore them, I'm very eager to try. I'd do a non-mint makred coin first to test it and if it works go to a mint marked coin.

So does anybody know any tricks to restoring dates to silver coins?
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mahgobbi's Avatar
United States
549 Posts
 Posted 02/05/2008  11:38 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add mahgobbi to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Thanks for the info about ANACS. I always see posts about having to pay $100 memberships and I guess I mistakenly assumed it was for all of the big grading companies. Even so, I'm not upset. It was a coin that I acquired as part of a lot of 48 coins that I paid $25 for (and also included an XF 1881-O Morgan, silver quarters, Barber dime, very nice indian head pennies, and a lot more). I'm happy to pass it along to somebody who can appreciate it more than I did, even if I could have gotten more for it if I had it slabbed. There also would have been some risk to slabbing it, since I wasn't 100% certain if it was actually a 1918/17. In addition, it appeared to be in similar (or possibly worse) condition than a photo of one I saw slabbed as FR-2.

If nothing else, it has motivated me to possibly invest in some nic-a-date! LOL
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United States
1204 Posts
 Posted 03/08/2008  9:44 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add sheldius to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Looking at jewelery sites, there is a slow etching chemical for silver (or copper for that matter).

A 55% by weight solution of Ferric Nitrate. This is iron or iron oxide that has been reacted with nitric acid.

As with nic-a-date, you want to neutralize or completely rinse off all the chemicals after you are happy with the date.

I think with nitric acid the date appears and then the silver tarnishs to quickly before it can be removed. Thus you get a really black layer. Plus it is not as dangerous (though slightly toxic).

Additional info:

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Iron(III) nitrate

IUPAC name Iron(III) nitrate nonahydrate
Other names Ferric nitrate
Identifiers
CAS number [7782-61-8]
RTECS number NO7175000
Properties
Molecular formula Fe(NO3)3¡¤9H2O
Molar mass 242 g/mol (anhydrous)
Appearance Pale violet crystals
Density 1.68 g/cm3, Solid
Melting point 47.2¡ãC

Solubility in other solvents Soluble in Water, alcohol, acetone
Structure
Coordination
geometry octahedral
Hazards
MSDS External MSDS
Main hazards Oxidizing Agent
NFPA 704 230
R-phrases 8-36/37/38
S-phrases 17-26-36
Related compounds
Related compounds FeCl3
Except where noted otherwise, data are given for
materials in their standard state
(at 25 ¡ãC, 100 kPa)
Infobox disclaimer and references
Iron(III) nitrate, or ferric nitrate, is the chemical compound with the formula Fe(NO3)3¡¤9H2O. It forms colourless to pale violet crystals that are deliquescent; i.e., crystals form a pool of water if left in open to the atmosphere. The compound is prepared simply by treating iron metal or iron oxides with nitric acid.

Ferric nitrate is the catalyst of choice for the synthesis of sodium amide from a solution of sodium in ammonia:[1]

2NH3 + 2Na ¡ú 2NaNH2 + H2
Ferric nitrate supported on certain clays have been shown to be useful oxidants in organic synthesis. For example, this reagent, called "Clayfen" has been employed for the oxidation of alcohols to aldehydes and thiols to disulfides.[2]

Ferric nitrate solutions are used by jewelers and metalsmiths to more safely and cleanly etch silver and silver alloys.

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afernbaugh's Avatar
United States
263 Posts
 Posted 03/09/2008  08:23 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add afernbaugh to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Mycrob: Be aware that type 1 Standing Liberty quarters have other markers that can determine if it is a 1916 or 1917. Please, if you haven't already done so, study these markers before you "restore" a type 1 with or with out a mint mark.
Best regards from an old timer on SLQs.
afernbaugh
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mycrob's Avatar
United States
2602 Posts
 Posted 03/10/2008  10:23 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add mycrob to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
What markers do you look for on the 1916 vs 1917 type I, as I do have a couple of no mint marked Type Is.

Thanks for the update on ferric nitrate. I've tried nitric acid straight up and it doesn't do much.
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afernbaugh's Avatar
United States
263 Posts
 Posted 03/10/2008  11:06 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add afernbaugh to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Mycrob: I am sure there is something online you can look at and see the markers. Off the top of my head the markers are: 1) a difference in the dots and dashes at the top of the liberty head near the rim, 2)the right hand position holding the olive branch, 3) the shape of the shield and 4) the skirt drape on the left side is flat at the bottom and almost touching the bottom rim. Look closely at photos of the 1916 coin and you will see the differences.
Regards,
afernbaugh
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